Are the fuses I mentioned good and have power? It does sound like anti-theft is the issue. When you say your key is broken, please explain exactly what is wrong with it. The anti-theft has to recognize the key, so if it is bad, that is likely the cause.
Also, disconnect the negative battery cable and allow it to sit for about 20 minutes. Then, reconnect it to see if anything changes.
The idea that you removed fuse 29 shouldn't have caused an issue. However, that is what supplies power to the SKREEM module. I have seen situations where the WCM (wireless control module) locks up and needs to be replaced. That can be caused by a power surge or even static when the key is placed in the ignition. However, the only way to test it is using a scanner that can read CAN codes. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, the modules are all tied together via a few wires. This will retrieve codes regardless of the module storing them.
If the WCM is locked up, the vehicle will do exactly what you are experiencing. However, the only way to know is via a scanner. If the WCM is locked up, the scan tool will identify the module as, Off-Bus."
There is one other test that may identify if the WCM is locked. As a test, I need you to pull a fuse. Remove the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch), wait for 10 seconds, and then reinstall the IOD fuse. If the vehicle then starts, the WCM needs to be replaced.
The IOD fuse is in the rear power distribution center. By removing it, you are resetting the system. I attached a pic below of the fuse location in the box. It will be a 60-amp fuse.
Let me know what you find.
Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, December 18th, 2021 AT 10:21 PM