Knock noise

Tiny
MOBANDO
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • 130,000 MILES
Hi, I purchased an E150 conversion van and noticed a knock that one mechanic said was catalytic (somewhat common from my research) and another said it was a rod knock (wallet visibly scared). I'm hoping its the catalytic converter. The knock does seem to speed up when gas pedal is pushed. I have driven it about 70 miles (city and highway) and have not lost oil pressure and no lights have come on. I did an oil change immediately with synthetic 5w20 and the old oil looked fine. I can't find exactly where the noise is coming from. Please let me know what you think. Thank you

PS: sorry about the door ajar alarm on the 2nd video, but you can still hear the knock

E150 (5.4L V8 2V).
Saturday, September 4th, 2021 AT 5:39 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,002 POSTS
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but converters will not be a constant even tempo tapping like that especially if it gets faster as you apply throttle. They will rattle some and can thunk if the internals have failed but they don't sound like that. That is internal engine parts making that noise. Most likely a bad rod bearing. The good news is that you could check them and even change them out if the crankshaft is still okay without pulling the engine. You just need to unbolt the mounts and jack the engine up to get the clearance needed to get the pan off. Then you could check the clearances in the rods and mains. Before that though I would get a mechanics stethoscope and give a listen top and bottom to verify it isn't something cam related, it doesn't sound like it is but before you made a decision to tear it apart I would check it close.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, September 4th, 2021 AT 1:26 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I agree with Steve. This sounds like an engine knock. One thing I would suggest is changing the oil and seeing if there is metal in it. You should be able to drain it into a clean pan and then swirl it around to see the bottom.

You can drain it through a clean white rag as well. However, draining it into a pan and then pouring off the top part so you can see the bottom of the pan is the best and easiest way to see the metal flake as it will go to the bottom of the pan.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-engine-oil-and-filter

If there is metal in the oil then that is coming from the bearing faces. Unfortunately there is no other repair then to take it apart and replace the bearings as Steve mentioned.

Below is what bearings that are worn look like or worse they have grooves cut into them which means the motor was only a short time away from locking up.

Please let us know if you have questions on this. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, September 4th, 2021 AT 3:15 PM
Tiny
MOBANDO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Oh, that breaks my heart, but I can understand it. In your position(s) would this be something to rebuild, do a full replacement, or depend on what the parts look like? Unfortunately this is something I do no have the experience or time for so what do you think cost would look like for this? Anybody in the Cincinnati area wanting to help out? Haha
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 4th, 2021 AT 4:25 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,002 POSTS
If the rest of it is good and it sounds like the rest of the engine is okay, I'd probably open it up, measure the wear and see what it looks like. Then if it's just the bearing and the crank measures okay, I would likely just toss new bearings in it and run it. From there it depends on how far you wanted to go, a complete rebuilt long block runs about $3,000.00 with a warranty. Rebuilding really depends on the machine work needed. If the bores are good and just the crank needs turning that would save a lot of money.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, September 4th, 2021 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
MOBANDO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you for your info and input. I will take it to my local rebuild shop and see what they can do. I appreciate it!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, September 4th, 2021 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,002 POSTS
Please return when or if they tell you what they find. No rush.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, September 4th, 2021 AT 8:37 PM
Tiny
MOBANDO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hey Steve, I wasn't able to take it into the shop yet due to school, but I was doing more research and saw some other 2V engines have a similar knock due to timing chain issues. What are your thoughts on that?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, September 6th, 2021 AT 6:10 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,002 POSTS
Doubtful given the location of the knocking and how loud it is combined with the tempo. Timing chains usually rattle as the links drag on the case. However that is why I said to get a stethoscope and use it to listen to the engine. You can hear where the issue is that way. A fast way to check without doing much would be to pull the plugs one at a time. If the sound stops or gets much less on a given cylinder you know it's rod knock.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, September 6th, 2021 AT 2:25 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links