Mechanics

PLEASE, MAY I KNOW THE MAIN DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A FUSE AND A FUSIBLE LINK .

2010 All Other Makes All Other Models

I have been hearing of a fuse and a fusible links, can your team help me to know the difference.


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Amponsem michael
November 9, 2011.



They are basically the same thing. A fuse is usually a push in device that will burn out if excessive power is run through them. A fuseable link does the same thing, but is part of and looks like a regular wire.


I'LL SHOW YOU AN EXAMPLE ON MY JEEP---THIS IS AN OLDER FORD TYPE SOLENOID

THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1") HOOKS TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE SOLENOID (THE BIG POST, "A"). THE OTHER BIG POST ("B")IS FOR THE STARTER CABLE, ("2"), SORTA HARD TO SEE IN THE SHADOW

JUST FOR INFO--THE LITTLE STUD ON THE LEFT IS "S" TERMINAL ("C") TURNING THE KEY TO "START" MAKES THE IGNITION SWITCH SEND 12 VOLTS TO THE SOLENOID, WHICH ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID---THEN THE STARTER TURNS OVER

THE OTHER LITTLE POST ON THE RIGHT, ("D"), IS "I" TERMINAL, IT SORTA BOOSTS THE COIL AT START-UP

BUT BACK TO YOUR QUESTION----A FUSIBLE LINK IS A WIRE, BUT IT MELTS IF THE AMP DRAW GETS TOO HIGH---THEY COME IN DIFFERENT AMP RATINGS

THEY ARE USUALLY LOCATED IN THE SYSTEM WHERE THE WIRE WOULD START "COOKING" 1ST, SHOULD IT OVERHEAT, OFFERING THE BEST PROTECTION, TO PREVENT MASSIVE WIRE HARNESS MELTAGE OR A FIRE. IN THE CASE OF MY JEEPS, AT THE BEGINNING, WHERE THE POWER ORIGINATES

ON THE FORD SYSTEM (MY JEEP TOO) THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE ("1")IS PIGGYBACKED ON TO OTHER WIRES ON THE SOLENOID (A)RIGHT HERE AT THIS POINT THE ENTIRE JEEP GETS ALL POWER INSIDE AND OUT

THE SOLENOID IN THE PICS BELONGS TO MY 1946 WILLYS JEEP, I KINDA MIMICKED MUCH OF THE WAY MY 1977 CJ5 WAS WIRED, WHEN I MODERNIZED IT'S WIRING

"3" GOES TO MY FUSE BOX (POWERS EVERYTHING)

"4" GOES TO MY ALTERNATOR

BOTH "3" AND "4" ARE FUSIBLE LINKS. SOME HAVE MARKINGS SUCH AS "3"---OTHERS ARE NOT MARKED, SUCH AS "4"

AS FAR AS SIZES, MANY ARE REFFED TO BY "GAUGE"

SOME DON'T LOOK NOTHIN' LIKE THESE ON OTHER CARS!

YOU CAN SEE THE "HEAT SHRINK" WHERE I TIED INTO "REAL WIRES"

THERE ARE 3 WAYS I CAN THINK OF TO TEST "MY TYPE".

1ST METHOD IS IT'S OBVIOUSLY BURNED OR DISTORTED.

2ND METHOD IS A CONTINUITY TEST.

THE LAST AND EZist TO DO IS, TUG ON THE FUSIBLE LINK, IF IT FEELS STOUT, IT'S PROBABLY GOOD---IF YOU PULL ON IT AND IT THE INSULATION STRETCHES OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND, THE WIRE IS FRIED. BUT DID IT'S JOB IN PROTECTING THE CIRCUIT!

KEEP THAT IN MIND. WHY DID IT MELT/ BLOW? FIX THE PROBLEM. DON'T JUST "STRAIGHT WIRE" IT BACK TOGETHER WITHOUT A FUSIBLE LINK. THIS IS ASKING FOR SOMETHING BAD TO HAPPEN!

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Nov 9, 2011.
They serve the same purpose but the fusible links is the main protection device in the event of an excessive overload it blows than it cuts off its branch circuits that leads to the miniature fuses its like a circuit breaker in a household AC system which is the main breaker that when it blows the entire house will not get power.


Rasmataz
Nov 9, 2011.
HOWDY! HOWDY! ISLANDER. WHAT TIME IS IT OUT THERE?

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Nov 9, 2011.
1800hrs 9 Nov here Sarge-You best have a war hero day come the 11th or else I'll get on you like stink on ****.I'm doing okay still in the FEBA here-you take care and God bless


Rasmataz
Nov 9, 2011.