RPM choke while braking

Tiny
EEFISH
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 HONDA CITY
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
I'm driving a Honda City V-tec 2007 model. Recently the car has some problems with unstable rpm caused the car choking while braking the car in traffic flow slowly. This choking incident will cease when I change the gear status from "D" to "N" condition. This incident will happen only intermittent.
Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 3:32 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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When was the last time the spark plugs were checked?
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Wednesday, August 10th, 2011 AT 12:53 PM
Tiny
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I just changed the spark plugs last month ago. I had been trying this few days and this problm was appear again. My car start choking up & down while stopping in front of traffic light or braking with gear "D" condition. Anything goes wrong with my gear box?
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 1:58 AM
Tiny
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The engine is surging when brakes are applied. This indicates you have a possible vacuum leak in the brake booster which would increase the rpm and when the engine computer senses it, it would try to reduce the rpm. The cycle would repeat so you need to have the brake booster checked.

The most common cause of vacuum leaks would be a bad seal between the master cylinder and booster. If you pull the master cylinder out slightly, ( need not remove any hoses) you would see the seal. Ensure the central portion is not worn or torn.
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
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Hi KH,

This is really new to me. I just went back to Honda SC last Sat (12th Aug) to clean the Throttle body but it's seem not much improvement for rpm unstable and choking issues. After digested your below statement, I also realised that my braking system was too agressive & over react in a very short period until I can't managed it well. I felt my brake is over agressive nowaday without changing any new brake pad. I will go back to SC this coming Sat for another check-up on my brake booster & hopefully this is a real root cause for engine surging issue.
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Tuesday, August 16th, 2011 AT 2:22 AM
Tiny
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If the rear brakes are locking up too fast, the front calipers are most likely not functioning correctly. The slider bolts or caliper pistons could be stiff/partially stuck.

Choking until engines seems to stall could be due to tight valve clearances if the throttle body is clean. Was the IAC cleaned by removing it from the throttle body? If the rpm is surging, then it is a possible vacuum leak.
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Tuesday, August 16th, 2011 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
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Hi KH,

Thanks for the valuable info shared as per below.

I’m getting a little bit confused now. From the points of you, what should be the correct steps & actions I need to get SC mechanic to do? Check the brake booster to ensure there are no vacuum leaks thru the seal between the master cylinder and booster or just need to perform check & cleanup the IACV sensor, reset ECU needed? I’m not sure whether the mechanic engineers can fully understand my car problem when I’m trying to tell them all these issues later.

This issue had been annoying me few days while driving the car at traffic congestion condition. I really need to solve this problem with right approach otherwise I might spend more time and money of changing the spare parts without any final solution.

I hope you can provide me more concrete method & step of screening so that I can explain and lead them to the main root cause.

Appreciate very much your help and patience with me.

P/S: I tried to brake my car gentlely this morning. It seems like the choke not so obvious now. The choke also happening when I tried to reverse my car with rush braking.

Best Regards
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Wednesday, August 17th, 2011 AT 1:39 AM
Tiny
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Since braking is affecting the engine idling, I would suggest starting woth that. Check for vacuum leaks with brake pedal depressed. Once you have the leaking rectified, I believe the idling should get back to normal, ubnless you have a fault with the IAC, which could be dirty internally.
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Wednesday, August 17th, 2011 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
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Messsage noted. Let's see what is the finding after my 2nd round check with Honda SC this coming Sat. Cheers
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Thursday, August 18th, 2011 AT 2:58 AM
Tiny
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Hi KH,

SC had checked my brake booster and confirmed that there is no vacuum leak issue. They also re-check and re-clean the throttle body and IACV sensor for me & everything’s seems alright.

They went thru the computer diagnosis analysis with me, all data collected are positive but they found some noise when they changed the CVT gear box from “N” to “R”. They suspected the noise is come from the flywheel and it will also cause the RPM***** & surge.

They had quoted me total cost RM1160 to change the whole flywheel.
I was there when they try to prove me the noise and I feel very minimum rough gear transition and******** when changing to reverse gear.

I still yet buyoff his idea due to he can’t guarantee my problem can permanently fix after changing the flywheel.

I would like to hear from you what is the next step & action I suppose to do now?

Thks
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Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011 AT 3:04 AM
Tiny
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If the transmission fluids had not been replaced for an extended period of time, have it replaced and retest. Bad transmission fluids can cause surging when the chain in the CVt transmission slips.
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Tuesday, August 23rd, 2011 AT 11:44 AM
Tiny
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I did change the transmission fluids last month by using their own Honda brand.

How about any other area that we have missed out to check?

This morning I encountered the same problem again when I was braking in front of traffic light with “D” condition. (When come to green light I let go my brake pedal and start accelerate, the rpm suddenly increase to 2000-2500 without moving the car and then immediate surge and***** then back to normal)

Is the volt stabilizer will cause the RPM***** and choke? Or the valve manifold for fuel and air intake is giving the problems? Or start-up clutch?

Regards
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Wednesday, August 24th, 2011 AT 2:55 AM
Tiny
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More likely to be the IAC causing the problem. IAC are known to stick though they can be clean. The valve bearings are stiff and intermittently causes the valv to remain open more than it should be. Turning the engine off and restarting might solve the proble. The next time it occurs, try turning the engine off and restarting to see if the problem goes away.

Did they separate the IAC from the throttle body while cleaning it and was the valve tested for sticking?
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Wednesday, August 24th, 2011 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
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Well. I will go back to SC for this weekend in order to get them to separate out the IAC and throttle body to ensure there is no sticking issue. Will come back to you for any finding.
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Thursday, August 25th, 2011 AT 7:06 AM

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