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Codes P0700, U0101, P1603, P0562, P0218, P0714, P0882, U0100, U0101 and U0141

Tiny
NRP-PT
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 4 CYL
  • 31,000 MILES
Vehicle listed above is a Turbo. Just bought for my college daughter. Intent included long trips to/from campus.

Intermittent engine light. Car went into limp mode upon leaving garage getting oil change. Went back and was reading P0700.

Took it to a transmission shop. Other codes are U0101, P1603 and P0562.

There are many stored codes P0218, P0714, P0882, U0100, U0101, and U0141.

It has only gone into limp mode once. Even when the light comes on, it shifts fine.

The shop says it needs ECM at $1,500.00 installed. I am thinking something else has caused the ECM to go bad.

Trying to decide next steps. Other than this issue, the car is mechanically great and the interior is excellent condition. Typical dings and dents.

Any advice? Thank you
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 11:35 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
If the P1603 was active then that is most likely the root cause. This is for an internal dual port communication failure. Basically it is saying there is an internal PCM failure.

I attached the testing for this code but it is pretty quick. There is a chance that there are other issues but I would suggest starting with this code and go from there.

In other words, this issue could cause the other communication issues that you are seeing.

I am not sure I would pay the $1,500.00 for the ECM as that does sound a little high but I am not seeing anything that would think they are wrong.

Maybe get a second opinion just for another estimate because that may be inline for your area but again that sounds high. Thanks.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
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Is the ECM also the PCM? Is it the same part?

And where in the car is it located?

Thanks
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
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One other question that may or may not be related.
Could any of this be caused by a problem with the ignition switch? We had a long key ring tassel which got caught up in the steering column while turning a corner. There was enough force to bend the key and the engine actually shut off and then turned back on when straightened out. It was very difficult to get the key out of the ignition. That all happened as we were pulling into the oil change place. It was when we were leaving that it went into limp mode. Coincidence? Or possibly part of the cause? Thanks again.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
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  • 7 POSTS
This morning I thought of another question!

When the computer is replaced, does it start fresh with no codes?

I have found a supplier that offers remanufactured units pre-programmed to my VIN. Have you any experience with parts like this?
http://chryslerptcruiserpcm.com/chrysler/pt-cruiser/2006-06-chrysler-pt-cruiser-turbo-ecm-pcm-engine-control-module/prod_406.html
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 6:57 AM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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Yes. The PCM and ECM are the same thing. I have used companies like these in the past and not had any issues. I included the process for the replacement of the PCM.

As for the other question, yes that appears to be unrelated. So let's get a new questions started for that one.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for your help.
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Friday, August 14th, 2020 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
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You are welcome. Please come back to 2CarPros next time you need some help. Thanks
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Saturday, August 15th, 2020 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
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Hi Kasey Kenny. I am back again almost a year later!

Since then I did replace the PCM with a remanufactured unit. Due to various reasons, the car has been driven less than 5,000 miles. About a month ago, the problem kicked in again.

On one occasion, the speedometer went wacky and was jumping up and down all over the place. I have also realized the odometer is off by.3 per mile (one mile registers as.7). I don’t know if the odometer was wrong before changing the PCM as I had just bought the car.

When limp mode kicks in, it is after shutting the car off and then restarting it within 10-15 minutes. It happened a few weeks ago on a long road trip. I shut if off and waited a half hour and then it was fine.

Since that trip the engine light has shut off and it is fine.

Right before the big trip, I went to have the state inspection. Driving to garage engine light was not on. They started it to pull into garage and light came on. It did not go into limp mode. The codes were P0700 and P1603

I have a code reader coming to me and I am hoping my brother can help me do some trouble shooting. Can you recommend where to start? Again, the PCM was replaced and the car behaved for about 4,000 miles!

Thank you :)
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Tuesday, July 20th, 2021 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
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Unfortunately this issue was not that uncommon on these PCMs. So I suspect the used PCM has just failed.

The P code that you have for the PCM is pretty straight forward. Basically you just checking and making sure you do not have connection issues. If you don't then the PCM is the issue.

Clearly we need to make sure the connections are ok because that would explain why it happened twice but it is not unheard of to have multiple PCM failures with this code especially on a used PCM.

These instructions ask you to use a test light so here is a guide that will help with this:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please review the info below and let us know what you find.

Thanks
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Tuesday, July 20th, 2021 AT 8:06 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for the speedy reply. I have no problem using a test light and my brother is very skilled at mechanics and troubleshooting. I just want to give him some starting points, so I really appreciate your help. :)

Your instructions say to use special tool 8815. Is that necessary? If so I might be able to borrow one, but would rather not. Without one and not probing the pins, what would be testing?

And is there a schematic showing which are F202 and F924? Or are those part of the special tool?

Also, are we concerned with only the connections to the PCM?

Thanks so much.
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Wednesday, July 21st, 2021 AT 10:49 AM
Tiny
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Great questions. This tool is what is called a breakout box. It is so you do not have to probe the wires and possibly damage them. It is not necessary as you can pierce the wire of each circuit and then just use nail polish to cover the hole and then wrap it with electrical tape. Or you can clip the wire on the pierce spot and then splice it back together and heat shrink wrap it.

These two circuits are just the battery voltage circuits to the PCM. All you are doing is making sure it has power on each circuit. If the PCM is getting power then you need to replace the PCM.

The only issue you are going to have is this test was for a different PCM. This was a common issue with most OEMs is they just reuse diag testing from other vehicles and the circuit callouts like F202 are not accurate on this specific vehicle. However, it is stating Fused B+ circuits need to be checked. So that means we just need to check those circuits on this PCM. I am attaching the PCM connector pin outs. Just check each of the circuits that have fused ignition switch output.

Please let us know what you find. Thanks
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Wednesday, July 21st, 2021 AT 5:46 PM

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