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Code P1077

Tiny
RKELLER7966
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 HONDA CRV
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 235,000 MILES
I have a good idle and all hoses hold vacuum and continuity on all connectors are good but I still get code p1077. I am about to take the intake manifold off and check the runner control and any thing under the intake manifold. Also, I did replace the starter and that's when the check engine light came on, so I may have something not connected. I need all the help I can get, please.
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Tuesday, December 31st, 2013 AT 3:43 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
I would take a good look at the IMRC. You may have hit the end of it or knocked the vacuum line off it. Maybe pulled a wire out of the connector? Its pretty tight up under there where the starter is
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Wednesday, January 1st, 2014 AT 12:24 PM
Tiny
NSANCHUN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 HONDA CRV
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
How to repair code p1077?
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
DTC P1077: IMRC System malfunction (low rpm).

Special Tools Required

Vacuum pump/gauge, 0-3 in. Hg A973X-041-XXXXX

1. Reset the ECM/PCM.

2. Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 RPM with no load (in park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on. Is DTC P1077 indicated?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Intermittent failure, system is okay at this time. Check for poor
connections or loose terminals at the intake manifold runner control
(IMRC) solenoid valve and at the ECM/PCM.

3. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) actuator (B), and connect a vacuum pump to the hose.

Is there vacuum with the engine at idle?

YES - Go to step 11.

NO - Go to step 4.

4. Check the vacuum hose between the IMRC actuator and IMRC solenoid valve.
Is the vacuum hose okay?

YES - Go to step 5.

NO - Repair the blockage or vacuum leak between the IMRC actuator and
IMRC solenoid valve.

5. Disconnect the lower vacuum hose (A) from the IMRC solenoid valve (B), and connect a vacuum pump to the hose.

Is there vacuum?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Repair the blockage or vacuum leak between the intake manifold and IMRC solenoid valve.

6. Reconnect the lower vacuum hose to the IMRC solenoid valve, and connect a vacuum pump to the vacuum hose (A).

7. Disconnect the IMRC solenoid valve 2P connector.
Is there vacuum?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Replace the IMRC solenoid valve.

8. Turn the ignition switch off.

9. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (24P).

10. Check for continuity between IMRC solenoid valve 2P connector terminal number two and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B22) and the
IMRC solenoid valve.

NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or
substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the
original ECM/PCM.

11. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

12. Connect a vacuum pump to the IMRC actuator (A), then apply vacuum.

Does the IMRC actuator hold vacuum?

YES - Go to step 13.

NO - Replace the IMRC valve assembly.

13. Disconnect the IMRC valve position sensor 3P connector.

14. At the sensor side, measure resistance between IMRC valve position sensor 3P connector terminals number two and number three.

Is there about 9.5 kohm at room temperature?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or
substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the
original ECM/PCM.

NO - Replace the IMRC valve assembly.
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MICAH PETER VAUGHAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I have a dtc p0117 on my 2006 Honda CRV 2.4l. I beleive during a starter replacement the wires were stretched. I have read all the forums and replaced both the rotary valve assembly and the solenoid as well. The code keeps coming back. Could you please describe in better detail how to test the valve position sensor and the solenoid? I cannot find on the web which ecm pins I should be looking at. If I knew which pins in the computer to test then I would know what to look for. Please help me verify my electrical connections to the IMRC system.
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
P0117 is not the one stated above. This is a fault code for the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. Please reconfirm the code.
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHAEL OWENS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I am sure he miss-typed Should read P1077. I am going through the same thing except I already replaced the starter motor, then the knock sensor, then the PCV Valve. Changed vacuum line from PCV valve to manifold as original had an indentation. Cleaned the complete IMRC assembly and checked internally for any debris or sludge. Changed the TPS Sensor. New air filter oil change. But my 2005 Honda CRV still idles rough, and asides from a ticking sound I am struggling to contain the problem.

Now I am at the point since finding your instructions to follow the steps you provided. Thank you. I will let you know how I do. I appreciate the images and easy to follow step by step. :-)
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OGRECNFD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 HONDA CRV
  • 150,000 MILES
I keep getting a hit on a P1077 trouble code that reads low rpm? Car seems to be running fine. How do I repair this issue?
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,895 POSTS
Hey OGRECNFD,

This code is for an intake runner control not working, please check the intake manifold actuator arm linkage, sometime the plastic clip pops off which inhibits the operation.

This will not affect the way the engine runs under normal conditions but it does cause the engine to have low power under full throttle.

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,895 POSTS
You could have low compression in one cylinder causing the rough idle and the engine noise brothers me as well. It could have a flat camshaft which will do the same. Here is a guide to help you find the problem:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-vibration-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JASMINE SAURIOL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
What is the IMRC solenoid valve's lower vacuum tube connected to?
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHAEL OWENS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Update: I found the rough idle due to engine mount passenger side gone. About $200.00 from Napa I am sure there are cheaper places. This fixed the rough idle. Here is a YouTube link if it happens to anyone: https://youtu.be/A9M-cgU89N8

I still get the P1077 and P1077pd error codes. Engine light on. I have ordered a Dorman IMRC "solenoid" and will switch that out. If this fails to remedy I may have to go through checking the air pressure as I have already replace a number pieces of the puzzle (PCV valve, hose, NOC sensor, IMRC 3 TPS sensor, and recently ordered the solenoid)

Mr Low mentions updating the ECM I will have to look into this once I have the solenoid replaced.

But since the engine mount despite the engine light. Idle is smooth and car runs well. I will update once I get the solenoid in place. I was told that if the manifold is not properly torqued to the engine that you can get a number of IMRC failure codes. Also, if the IMRC unit that rotates is not reinserted correctly in the manifold this too can create faults. As per Mr. Low diagrams pay close attention. The new part fixed it.
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,895 POSTS
I have seen where the coking inside the intake is so bad the intake runners get gummed up and do not move. If this is the case you will need to remove the clean the intake. FYI
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Monday, May 27th, 2019 AT 2:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSCH
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Like others, I got the 1077 code after replacing the starter. I broke the nipple off the solenoid, so already replaced the solenoid. What I did not do is replace the gasket nor use a torque wrench on the IM. Could either of those cause the 1077. BTW, car runs smoothly and no acceleration problems.
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Tuesday, February 4th, 2020 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Hi,

If you had the intake removed and didn't replace the gasket, you may have a vacuum leak. As far as the code, it is related to the intake runner, which I believe you already know. In most cases, they get corroded and fail to move. Is that the only code you get?

Joe
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Thursday, February 6th, 2020 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
JOSCH
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks for the reply. Yes, that’s the only code. I’m going to replace the “new” solenoid with an OEM version, before I remove the manifold again. Since the code is related to the intake runner, does that rule out any possible vacuum issue with the manifold itself to be the cause of that particular code?
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Monday, February 10th, 2020 AT 12:19 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Let me know if that takes care of the problem. I have a feeling the runner is stuck, but anything is possible.

Let us know what you find or if you need help with anything.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, February 10th, 2020 AT 6:54 PM
Tiny
JOSCH
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
It appears it was the new “d- word” solenoid causing the issue. Replaced it with new OEM version. No CE light. Drove car 200 miles to reset the readiness codes. All appears well. Thanks again for your input!
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Friday, February 14th, 2020 AT 12:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Glad to hear you got it fixed. I'm not sure what brand sensor you used first, but I am finding that inexpensive parts are not equal.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, February 14th, 2020 AT 2:39 PM
Tiny
JOSCH
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
D-word = Dorman. It wasn’t even less expensive than the non-dealership OEM, just more readily available.
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Friday, February 14th, 2020 AT 8:31 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Wow! I have always had good luck with their parts. Regardless, there can always be a bad one. I'm just glad it is working properly now.

Please feel free to come back in the future if you ever have questions.

Take care and thanks for letting us know.

Joe
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Friday, February 14th, 2020 AT 8:49 PM

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