Engine has low power?

Wet spark plugs indicates that the sparks are either weak or non-existent -or- less likely too much fuel is being injected into the engine. I'd go get a spark tester (maybe $15.00 to $20.00 at the auto parts shops) and check for sparks.

Here's the tester that I use. It's pretty simple. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501325755&sr=8-3&keywords=spark+tester

Basically, you pull the plug wire off of the ignition coil (also pictured below) and plug in this tester between the coil and the plug wire. Then get someone to turn the key while you observe it. If it flashes, then you have spark. Check all of the cylinders.

If you have good consistent spark at each cylinder, then the next thing I'd look at is the plugs and wires themselves. Incorrect plugs and/or wires, or really worn out plugs and wires will keep the car from running well, if at all. This guide doesn't completely apply, but if you scroll down you can see information about inspecting the plugs. Here: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

Start there and let me know what you find. We'll get your car going again.

I used a similar spark tester all four cylinders had spark and the plugs we're replaced a month ago. The plug wires are about a year old with around 20,000 miles on them. I pumped the gas while starting the engine and got it to start. I kept it running around 2,000 rpm's for a few minutes. It went to idle and sounded like a champ. Now it starts with no problem, I want to know of what could have caused this.

Hmm, is the service engine/check engine light on? If so, get it scanned and let me know what the codes are. An issue like this could be a lot of things. Most of them are spark or timing related. I'd probably suspect a failed camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.

I'd like to have the VIN so I can see exactly which engine you have. My information shows three different 1.6L engines, probably with only minor differences. Again, if the service engine light is on, get it scanned and post those code numbers on here.

It has no stored or pending codes according to my code reader. I just replaced the crank position sensor due to chaffing wires on the alternator belt. I drove it 50 miles this morning, it definitely is sluggish under 3000 rpm's I put injector cleaner in it. I think it may be a bad gas or an improper fuel spray pattern. I will get back to you with the VIN.

Hello,

It sounds like you may have a catalytic converter that is fallen apart and blocking the exhaust at times. Here is a guide to help confirm the issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down this guide and report back.

That does sound like a possibility. Good thinking, Ken! A definite possibility at 160,000 miles.

Sorry for the late reply. So after partially removing the cat (removed springs and reinstalled the bolts) it accelerates at lower RPM'S with no problems. Took a couple of hills both cold and hot. On a cold engine it went up without a problem in a was gaining speed. Once the engine was hot I did loose a little bit of speed but not much. Would you say that is a catalytic converter problem? I also removed and really cleaned the injectors. I had two that are partially clogged. As always thank you for your time and help.

I drove the car again this morning to see if I was still having the same issue. Shifting gears at around 2500 rpm still shows the same problem.

Yes, the catalytic converter sounds clogged, how did the test turn out from the guide above?

The catalytic converter tested good although I checked the temperature after driving about 40 miles. The inlet side was high three hundreds and the outlet was mid four hundreds. I didn't hear any rattles. And the engine is a d16y8 heyman1104 was asking for it.

The catalytic converter sounds good. can we check the timing belt timing it could have jumped a tooth? here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/honda/civic/1997

Please let us know what you find.

Just wanted to let you know that I just got done removing the timing belt cover. All the reference points line up and the belt is tight. Did find a valve cover bolt that was stripped. any other ideas because at this point I'm not sure what it could be. As always thank you for your help.

Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we what the car is doing? That would be great. You can upload it here with your response. Does the transmission cause the issue or the engine?

As soon as I get it back together I'll upload a video.

Please do.

I adjusted the valves before putting it back together. I'm not having the same lagging issue it was very hard to start, like the original problem. Once I got it started it ran like a champ. I plugged in my reader all the vitals looked good the only one I can't read is fuel pressure. I don't think that the problem is solved. The valve gaps weren't to far off, but they were a little loose. When the problem comes back I will be sure to upload a video.

Fuel pressure can cause the low power issue, also ignition timing. does it have new fuel filter? can you please check the ignition timing? The video will help. :)

The fuel filter was replaced about a month or two ago. I will check ignition timing and post a video and report back.

Sounds good.

This video is started by going down a small hill followed by a steep incline. You see I lose about 5 mph previously I would lose 10-15 mph this is in fifth gear. I previously could only use fifth gear on the highway.

This was from a complete stop. Originally it would only really be able to accelerate above 3,000 rpm.

Thanks for the videos, it sound pretty normal but I think we need to check the compression across all cylinders. Here is a guide to help us do the job. I think the compression is low.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please run down this guide and report back.

I did a compression test and all four cylinders we're around 150. The one one that wasn't 150 was cylinder two and it was 148. I couldn't find what the normal PSI is. I also checked ignition timing and it was off. After adjusting it the car is back. It has the power and my MPG is back as well.

Ah yeah, that'll do it for sure. Glad that you got it going again. Thanks for using 2CarPros. Come back anytime.

- Harry