Engine Overheating

Tiny
TS87
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
Issue:

Overheating. I have had this problem for around 2.5 years. I'm not sure what could have caused the problem - one day while driving, I just noticed that the temp gauge was approaching the red. My driving habits hadn't changed (average around 5k/year mixed city and freeway driving), nor had anything (i.E. Damage, collisions, etc.) Happened to the car.

The car tends to overheat after about 15 minutes of city driving, but has overheated on the freeway, as well (this occurs less frequently, however, because the constant air flow when traveling seems to keep the engine cooler). When the car overheats, the cooling fans will not turn on. To cool the car down when it overheats, I will turn the heater on high. Upon doing this, the temperature gauge will drop fairly quickly; however, I must then keep the heater on to prevent the car from overheating any further.

When the car overheats (while the car is parked with the engine running), the temperature gauge will rise about 8/10 of the way up, then the fan(s?) Will kick on. The temp gauge will then fall to about the midway point. The fans will then shut off, and the temp will rise again. This cycle lasts around 3-5 minutes and will repeat itself for however long the car is running.


Repairs:

I have taken my car to several mechanics, yet NONE has been able to diagnose or reproduce the problem. Every time the car is in the shop, the fans will turn on properly. The last mechanic I took my car to even drove the car around town a few times, but never witnessed the car overheat until I drove the car directly to the shop myself after it had already overheated.

The first set of repairs I had done to address this issue were: coolant/radiator flush, new thermostat, new timing belt, new waterpump, new alt. Drive belt, new p.S. Drive belt, and new a.C. Drive belt. Also, the mechanic inspected to make sure that there were no blockages in the hoses. I’m not sure if each of these was done to address the issue, specifically, or if they were done simply as some sort of maintenance. Either way, these repairs did not solve the problem. My car would still overheat.

The second set of repairs was done 9 months later. This time I had the coolant fan switch replaced. This seemed to fix the problem. My car didn’t overheat for nearly a year. Well, a few weeks ago, it began overheating again, and so I took it to a different mechanic.

The third, and most recent, set of repairs involved replacing the entire fan motor unit, the fan switch, and the thermostat (again). These mechanics said that although they weren’t sure what the problem was or how to reproduce it, the repairs they made should fix the problem. They didn’t. The car overheated on the way back.


Other Notes:

The coolant level has always remained stable throughout this ordeal.

The radiator has never appeared to malfunction (after speaking with the mechanics about overheating, some suggested feeling if the radiator had any cold spots between the fins. Mine did not. Nor has any mechanic felt that this problem lay with my radiator or engine. Granted, they had no idea what the problem was, I just felt that I should point this out, for what it’s worth).

The oil has always remained the same color (the color of oil – not milky or grimy); however, after the car overheats, the oil level tends to drop slightly. The car is not leaking oil, however – or at least that I can tell. There have been no oil stains, residue, or drops underneath my car noticed by me or any of the mechanics I have used.

The car can produce a smell when overheating. Usually it smells sort of metallic. The mechanics I’ve used said this smell was boiling coolant.

After taking the car home from the mechanic, it overheated again. I pulled over to look at the engine. I noticed neither fan was on. I turned the heater on, then both fans switched on. I turned the heater off, then both fans switched off. I turned the air conditioner on, then the driver’s-side fan switched on. I turned the air conditioner off, then the driver’s side fan switched off. The same happened when I turned the fan on and off (the coolest setting without using the air conditioner). I then turned the heater back on, but this time only the driver’s side fan would turn on. I’m not sure if this is what happens each time my car overheats, but I did notice it today and have noticed that my fans weren’t on upon prior occurrences of engine overheating. Engine overheating
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Monday, September 13th, 2010 AT 1:01 AM

43 Replies

Tiny
KEVIN12881
  • MEMBER
  • 336 POSTS
You could try the radiator cap, bt that does not sound like your problem, it would sem it is the fans. you seem to know what you are doing and what you are talking about, and turning on the heater is the right thing to do. having the cooling fan switch replaced should have done it, but is there another switch to look for. is that switch turned on by another engine temp sensor, might look into that. my only suggestion that may work, though you may not like it, is to just put both fans on a toggle switch for a little while and see if you have any over heating problems. if you do make sure you have an in-line fuse. my truck's fan is belt driven, but i have two fans on the outside of my rad to help (no fan shroud) and they are operated by a toggle mount inside. i did mine for permanent use, but you dont have to put a hole in your dash if you just want to try it. just let the switch hang under the dash.if you do use the toggle just do it right with the fuse and wire crimps. goo luck, let us know how it goes whatever you do or dont do.

Check this guide out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

(USER COMMENT You can cause a circuit messing with those wires,,,you have a bad head gasket)
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Monday, September 13th, 2010 AT 1:27 AM
Tiny
DAVIDBNAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
Engine Performance problem
2000 Honda Civic 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 165K miles

I have a 2000 civic lx with 165k. I have just replaced the timing belt, and all other belts, water pump, all aluminium radiator(no name), thermostat, new hoses, head and head gaskets. The car is still overheating after driving about 20 min if I run the A/C. The trany starts to get slugish when it gets hot and seems to lug on the engine. If I turn on the heater, the temp. Goes down and trany runs a little better. When I come to a slow turn and give it the gas it will not shift to first gear. All these problems happen in the afternoon on the drive home.(I live in Phoenix, AZ with average temp of 105deg +/- 5 deg.) I don't have a problem in the morning and I run the a/c then too. I have a new om radiator but it is half as thick as the one thats in now. Should I change it? What can be causing my overheating problem?
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Hi there,

Thank you for the donation,

I would first re check that the thermostat is ok, also a simple thing but is the cooling fan and the condenser fan working?

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDBNAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I forgot to mention that I replaced the thermostat. The ac fan comes on as soon as I turn it on. The rad. fan comes on at 190 deg. As for the aftermarket radiator I put in, Its twice as thick but I noticed you cant see through It like the stock one. It looks like the fins are bent but it was made that way.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/556111_car_prob_014_1.jpg

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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
I would still be re testing the thermostat, as dud new ones are not uncommon, also as you say the temp does come down with the heater on, this is somewhat indicating that the radiator may not be effective enough, I would get a radiator shop to check the core & tube size is suitable for your engine.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GANESHR2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 8,000 MILES
Hi,

I was told that I need to get my head gasket replaced. The car care said I need to look for a differnt service center. Can you please suggest for a Good car care center near Florida Fort Lauderdale region. I stay at Weston. Also please advice minimum cost in changing the same. Do I have to change any other component along with this?

2000 Honda Civic LX

Thanks in advance.
Ganesh.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
Head gasket replacement generally runs $1000-1500 depending on condition of head.

Look for an ASE certified garage (or dealer), that has BBB certification and local chamber of commerce affiliation.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTHAO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
My 2000 civic 1.6L. Is over heating. Recentinly I was driving it and the upper hose blew. At first it started backfiring then I put it in -N- so I can get to the side of the road. So far I have changed all the hoses. Checked if there was any leaks around the radiator and back side of motor. Nothing. Now that I drive it doesnt overheat unless im at high rpm for a long period of time. Especially when I turn my AC on. When I turn off then car. I check for leaks again cause my reserver keeps getting lower. I can also smell burned cooliant, but I see nothing leaking. I dont know what it could be except for the water pump and head gasket. Is there a way I can check these or do I
have a malfuntion else where. I also replaced the
thermostate. This is the First motor problem I have had with this car.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Have it block and pressure tested-do the block first to pinpoint a combustion leaking into the cooling system or a gas analyzer to sniff for hydrocarbons at the radiator fill neck.

Pressure test: do not do a pressure test if there's leakage at the headgasket this might cause coolant into the cylinders and lock it up or bend a connecting rod if cranked thereafter. The headgasket should be repaired before doing the pressure test.

If the block and pressure test passes check the following: Thermostat, Pressure test the Rad. Cap, Clogged radiator, Fan clutch, Radiator electrical fan, collaspe hoses, water pump
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTHAO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
How do I do a block and pressure test and a gas
analyzer test. I plan on doing a whole tune up my car with changing the timing belts and pullys. With adjusting the valve springs. I would like to
figure out the main problem so it wont be so costly on my half.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Test the water pump do below-

One way to test for a bad water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose when the engine is hot and idling. Careful, because the hose will be HOT! If you do not feel much coolant circulating through the hose when you rev the engine, the pump may be bad. The other cause might be a bad thermostat that is not opening properly (remove and inspect the thermostat), or a clogged radiator.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTHAO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
When I do that it doesnt feel full like half empty.
Compaired to the bottom hose feels full. If I take the timing belt cover off will I see any anti-freeze leaking from
the water pump. Lastly what is another way of checking
the head gasket? Because when I drive the car after shutting it. A strong FUME comes from the driver side after opening the hood? Anymore ideas would be helpful.
I have maintained this motor to the tee. So I would like to keep it a little longer
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Hi matthao,

If the reserve tank keeps depleting, there should be a leakage somewhere.

Look for coolant stain marks when the engine is partially warm atter cooling down.

Check if the radiator drain cork O ring is worn.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Remove all the sparkplugs and inspect for coolant in the cylinders unable to get a chec bloc tester its a fluid that's changes color when exhaust gas is present in the cooling system or a cooling system pressure tester
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUROSI
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 270,000 MILES
My car has an overheating problem, I've purged the system to bleed the air out but it take more then 30 minutes
Installed an all aluminum radiator, change the thermostat also check if my head gasket was blown and no the liquid did not turn yellow.
I dont a bleeding valve. What can I do so that my engine doesn't overheating?
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTHAO
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
After flushing my coolant from my car, and changing
all my heater hoses, my car wont start. I sprayed the engine bay afterward. I know I didnt get the distributer
wet cause I opened the cap n checked. Everytime I crank
it over it makes a loud humming noise like vroomp, kinda
of like a hollow noise. Please help
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Ma sure your cooling fans work for one then have the system pressure checked for a head gasket
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do below and see what happens

Get a carb cleaner and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors-

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LUROSI
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The fan does work it comes on when it needs to, also each piston hold the same amount of compression.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Do what I've said in first reply
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)

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