2000 Ford Mustang Repair Question
My first mustang can you help?
Just any advice weather I hould even bother buying the car, if its a good deal, what to look for anything would be great!
Theseller already contacted me and told him Im reallyintersted, h said he will hold on to it for a week and not sell it until I get the money. after taxes it will be 1300$
What d you suggest I do? look for when there? or should I even bother? car is mostly stock I think.
Options: AM/FM Stereo, Air Conditioning, Alloy Wheels, Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS), Anti-Theft, CD Player, Cassette Player, Driver Side Airbag, Intermittent Wipers, Keyless Entry, Power Mirrors, Power Seat, Power Steering, Power Windows, Rear Defroster, Power Locks, Spoiler, Traction Control, Cruise Control
Description: JUST GOT REDUCED TO $999 Driving condition, needs some body work, CarProof Clean , No Accidents.Won't last long.
Exterior Colour: Gold
Interior Colour: Grey
Fuel type: Gas
Engine: 3.8 Liter
Mileage: 290,000 kms
I will attached the link fo pictures, the car is out of town so I cant get itto my mechanic until after a purchase also :s
the car is on auto trader, I donate money to the site hping to get a response so please check the car out and help me out :))
I am not a fan of Fords by any means, but I still have to wonder why the price is so low in the first place and they had to reduce it even more to get someone to buy it. Also, I don't know what the laws are in Canada but I CAN share that in Wisconsin, USA there are rather strict disclosure laws about the vehicle's safety and mechanical condition that apply to licensed dealers but do not apply to private sellers.
Dealers can sell a car with known problems but they must be disclosed on the window sticker. I would definitely find a different shop in the area to take it to for a detailed brake, steering, and suspension inspection before you commit a single dollar to it. If the dealer won't let you do that, find a different dealer. Ford has had a real big problem with steering parts that separate and lead to a crash, but to my knowledge that is not a big problem with their rear-wheel-drive products. I would not trust a Carfax report either. They only list known recalls and known crashes that were reported. They have no way of knowing the mechanical condition of the car.
Electrical problems are a real big nightmare on all brands of cars and the newer they are, the worse they are due to the insane use of many unnecessary, unreliable computers to do simple tasks. For example, Ford was the first to use the horn switch to send a signal to the smartest computer on the car, the instrument cluster, which interpreted that and sent another coded signal to the FEM (front electronic module), which turned on the horn relay to honk the horn. Yup; two computers involved in blowing the horn, and the typical repair bill for a dead horn is $800.00! I don't know if they were already doing that in '99 but in general, the older the car is, the less electrical trouble and the fewer very costly repair you will have.
You can expect that they pressure-washed the engine but if the car has been test-driven by a few people there will be signs of leaks if there are any. Look for wetness on the bottom of the engine. A little seepage is normal but it takes a pretty bad leak to spray fluid onto the floor of the car well behind the engine.
I can give you some pointers on looking at tire wear patterns too to see if an alignment is needed. Mustangs can have all the important angles adjusted. Ford is also famous for building cars that can't be aligned, and they have extremely bad tire wear, but that is because the tires tip out so much on top that they ride very smoothly compared to other car brands, so they sell a lot of them, but then people find out that 15,000 miles is about all they can get out of a set of tires. That too pertains to their front-wheel-drive cars, but it is one of the reasons I don't like their products and I don't like a company that would trick their customers that way. The only company that is worse and completely unapologetic about separating owners from their money is GM.
Needs body work? mileage 290,000km.
Sounds like it's got one foot in the bone yard.
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Yes thats what I am worried about :o, the car is about an hours away in Toronto so I cant get to down to see it until next week. Should I even take a shot buying this wth 290,oookm on it? when I get there should I take it for a test drive and find a local ford dealership? will they charge me to look over the car? Im only 21, Not too good with cars, I attached a link further up after my question, if you click n the link you can see pictues and full inf about the car on autotrader. He has told me there is nothing mechanically wrongwth the car :s Im soo skeptical thoguh, for such a cheap prices :s if I did decide to pick this car up how many more km would I get out of the engine or should I look for a previously wrecked mustang at a yard or something with a motor? wth lower kms? judging by the pick the body looks fine which is another reason why Im worried :s
I mean I asked the guy over the phone if the car will ceritfy, and he said the engine runs strong, real good, nothing mechanically wrong, just needs body work :s If I did by this car, and the mtor blew on me by 300,000km would it still be worthwhile t look for a new engine if breaks steering and everythingelse that would pass a safety are ok onthe car? and just replace the motor?
Im looking at this car, and a 2001 honda prelude which is at a dealership down the road with 180,000km on it but this car is listed at 2,500$ Kinda out of my price range but I still could go put 500$ down and get it financed for really cheap. But this mustan has me dreaming, is i too good to be true? :s
Do you always believe everything a salesman tells you, especially one you will never see again after the sale? I say run as fast as you can away from this guy. If you could have sold it, it would already be gone.
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I dont believe any of it which is why I came here nd donated money to get advice :) I appreciate all the help from you guys, I do wanna go take a look atit at least. couldnt hurt. I wishmy questions would get answered though lol. likeis it orth the gamble if the engine dies, and I go find a engine at a yard? and all of the above, orjust forget about it and keep shopping. :) Ireally dont know, the car isfully stock, no sunroof no leather seats, alloy stock wheels, couple paint marks on the bumper, ad has 290,000km lol this is why I think it is really cheap, but then again in the back of my mind its prolly a huge ticking time bomb waiting to burn a whole in my pocket! I have seen a couple other mustangs selling online prolly 2001 and 2002s for about 2,500$ to 4,000$ wth about 100,000 less km on them and coming with 3 sets of tires and rims and stuff. Which makes me believe no ones just wants astock gold 2000 mustang with 290,000km on it, it could be a diamonds in the ruff, and could go anoher 100,000 km no? I dunno guys lol, I know nothingabout cars, just know I got my last chrysler 300 was marked for 14000$ 2 years ago, and I ended up talking the guy down to 5,000$ straight up. but again this one is listed low already :s
I am only 21, am a professional gambler, so money isn;t always fat! but is always there just not as much all the time as hoped. I just dont want to set myself back buying a bomb. Thankyou fo all and any frther advice or tips that I may get.
Please click on the autotrader link for the car for a closer look! :)
Thanks again guys! this site is really cool and I will be donating and coming back here in the future. Awesome system great idea!
I think so too. Something doesn't feel right and I am the expert at having buyer's remorse. Besides that issue, remember I don't like Fords and I don't like new cars, but my opinions do not count in your decision. High mileage, . . . or "kilometerage", or whatever it's called in Canada, is not necessarily a problem if it was driven long distances on the highway regularly. Where I am, cars fall apart from road salt and rust long before engines give out. The fact that I'm still driving an '88 Grand Caravan means I don't care what my vehicles look like or where the wind comes sailing through, as long as I know it will get me back home.
From what I read here, I suspect you could look forward to fewer engine and transmission problems with this car compared to a lot of other models but you are still going to be putting money into it on a regular basis. I would feel better if you would keep saving until you find something you like closer to home. Many dealers will give you a 50/50 30-day warranty if they have faith in what they're selling you but you don't want to drive an hour to find out they can't get to the car for three days.
As for financing, keep in mind the monthly payments are just a tiny fraction of the cost of owning a car. Don't forget insurance, maintenance, license, repairs, etc. Too many young people spend every last cent on the car, then work to earn the money to make the payments. There's no money left to take Betty Lou to the movies and she don't like people with no money.
Now let me get into "teachur mode". A car loan is a nice way to start building a good credit rating but what you should watch for is the interest rate, not the amount of the monthly payments. Too many young people jump at the financing the dealer comes up with because they can afford that amount. Often the interest rate can be double what you would find yourself at a bank or credit union. Sometimes part of that interest goes right back to the dealer or salesman as a commission. No need for you to be paying that when it's easy to apply for a loan yourself. If a banker turns you down, (and they'll tell you why), but the salesman can get you financed, you have to wonder what extra cost you're paying.
It's also becoming more common now to find longer-term loans. That reduces the amount of the monthly payments, which looks great on paper, but it increases the number of those payments you're going to have to make. When they shove the paperwork under your nose, multiply the number of payments by the amount of each payment, then add in your down payment to get the total cost of the car. Don't be surprised if that $1000.00 car is going to cost you $1600.00, and you haven't put gas in it yet or paid for insurance.
If you have a secure job right now, you will be way better off in the long run if every month you stash your paycheck in the bank and save it toward a car. The excitement of buying and driving a car wears off real fast, especially when it comes time for that monthly payment, . . . again!
On the other hand, if you like your job, you will probably get a few raises along the way, but your car payments won't increase. Credit unions allow you to pay extra each month which lowers the total interest you will pay. You have to watch banks. This might not apply to car loans but with home loans, if you pay extra at a bank, you have to specify that it be applied to your loan balance right now, otherwise they can hold it in escrow, (storage), and apply it when there is enough saved up to pay the loan off. That doesn't benefit you at all.
With a credit union, if your payment is $500.00 and $50.00 of that is principal, you can make a second payment on the same day by paying only another $50.00. If you do that every month, you cut in half the total number of monthly payments you have to make.
Didn't mean to get into all of that, but these are things that came up every year in my classes. I taught Automotive at a community college, and my students were in your age range. Too many of them had to do rent, diapers, food, text books, tuition, electric bill, and car payments, and they couldn't do them all with their part-time paycheck. The kids who waited a few years for all of these things always had the best cars and clothes later and seemed to have much fewer worries. Very often someone would show up with their new "ride" and brag about the deal they got thanks to our class discussions. No one in high school ever teaches personal finances.
So, to get back on topic, be sure to get an independent inspection that you have to pay for. Some shops will pick a car apart mercilessly because it's being sold by a competitor so you might get better results from a shop that isn't affiliated with car sales. If the selling dealer doesn't have their own service department, they have to farm the inspections and repairs out to another company. Try to find out which company that is so you don't go back there. Even if they find a problem, they might not want to admit that they overlooked it the first time, or if they did find it and the dealer elected not to spend the money to fix it, the inspector might keep his mouth shut to avoid "tattling" so to speak. Anything that is found should be listed in writing on a checklist or on the invoice when you pay the bill. You can use those items too to negotiate the sales price with the dealer. They always have a little "wiggle" room built in. It sounds like they're having trouble selling this car so if you're really "emotionally-involved" with it after seeing it, don't be afraid to offer less than they're asking.
Nice thanks prfect advice! Im going to go have a look at it, with no intent on wanting to purchase just check it out, take it to a shop to get checked, and go from there, I know what to do and ask and look for now, tanks cardiodoc!
You're welcome. I should mention too, since you asked about sticking in a different engine, that is probably not the best way to look at it unless you are specifically buying a car because of the engine problems and you want to fix it. You never know what you're getting with a used engine unless you can hear it run.
You are expecting to buy a car with a good drive train that you don't have to stick more money into. You might consider asking the dealer for the name of the previous owner so you can ask them the history of the car and why they traded it.
Holler back and let us know how you made out.
ok guys sounds good, and I know a 1000$ car can have problems just as much as a 4000$ car right. My uncle is a mechanic, we dont get along too well lol but in the back of my mind I know he can always hook me up with repairs, also I have a good mechanic here in barrie that fixes my cars and I can pay him in payments, well he used o anyways I havent driving for a year now so excited to just gets 4 wheels on the road,
tuff thing is only now where the car is being sold Is in toronto hr from me and my mechanics, so I would have to I guess before going to look at the car, go around to acouple shops first around the area and ask about getting this car looked at before I actually take the car there. And they always give the most honest judgement of the vehicle inspection right? as long as i dont go to a shop that has previously dealt with the seller correct?