You mgiht check the brake rotor heat shield. Sometimes they can get bent and scarpe the rotor. Check the heat shield for clearance all the way around, especially around the lower ball joint where the clearance is smallest. The rotor needs a little clearance for moving around when the suspension gets loaded. Also, when you bend it in one palce it bends on the opposite side. So, it takes some patience to get it right. You might also check the brake pads and make sure that the low material scraper that makes noise by scraping the rotor when pad material is low is not making contact. Even if it is close it will make moise as the pads will squish and the rotor is not perfectly flat so it may look like you have a millimeter or so clearance but it will still make noise.
Wheeel bearing makes noise when going around corners that is different form going straight. That is a good way to tell if they are bad. Check to see if the rubbing noise is the same as the wheel speed or is it more like the speed of the motor. You can check this by putting it in neautral while moving and letting it idle to see if noise changes. Or does the noise change, in neautral engine at idle, when you slow down? That will tell you if you need to look at the water or steering pumps as they can make rubbing noises when bad and will change with RPM of motor. Check them for play at the pulley.
If the noise changes with wheel speed, check things like the rotor and heat shield as aforementioned or see if an inner fenderwell liner is loose and getting blown back onto the wheel while moving but returns to its normal poistion when at a stop. Look around for contact spots.
Check this walk through diagnostic as it pertains to your situation. Just follow the link below;
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/whirring-sound
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Sunday, March 11th, 2012 AT 1:58 AM
