1999 Saturn SL2 Repair Question
Car will not start
About 6 months ago would not start. Garage replaced spark plugs and it started. I removed the spark plugs prior to the garage and didn't think they were too bad. Don't know if the 2 non starts are connected. No codes or drivibility issues before this (6 months ago)non start.
No drivability issues or codes before this non start.
Following your no start instructions:
-All fuses checked and OK.
-New spark plugs
Still no start.
-Check spark across a 0.25" gap. All OK.
-Checked timing: with slot in crank pully aligned with mark on timing cover, cam marks were both at 12 o'clock and piston #1 at TDC.
-Timing during starting based on the crank pully slot was 23 degrees BTC using a timing light.
-Starter running at 226RPM from scan tool.
-Fuel injector electronics tested OK with noids.
-Fuel pressure measured at 46 psi, fuel flowed through relief hose with no air.
-EGR valve closed.
-Long term fuel trim is -11% from scan tool (last time car ran).
-Air and coolant temps within 3 deg. C from scan tool.
-Dry compression low on cyclinders 1 & 4. All cylinders improved wet. Did not do as many cranks as the FSM suggests. Can redo??
-Leakdown test was interesting. All cylinders in the red. Cylinder 1, air coming out of #2 and #3 cylinders and exhaust??.
Next thing on the list is to open up the exhaust. Any advice on getting the nuts off the manifold/flexible pipe would be appreciated - oxy/acc torch?
I would have thought low compression or valve issues would have generated codes and had drivebility issues??
I SEE THE 6 MONTHS AGO THING
DO YOU THING THIS IS RELATED TO THIS PRESENT "NO START" ISSUE?
I DO NOT KNOW IF IT'S COMPLETELY DEAD IN THE WATER---OR IF IT TURNS OVER AND JUST WON'T BUST OFF
THIS LINK ARE ABOUT ALL I CAN OFFER
THIS PIC BELOW IS AN EXAMPLE OF A CONNECTION THAT "LOOKED GOOD", TO A FRIEND OF MINE (NOT THE FRIEND IN MY LINK), HE INSISTED THE PROBLEM WAS THE SOLENOID, STARTER, RELAYS, ETC.---HE ALMOST GOT MAD WHEN I SKINNED BACK THE ELECTRICAL TAPE THAT COVERED IT ALL THW WAY TO THE CLAMP, WITH MY KNIFE! HE WAS SO SURE HIS "60 SECOND 'BIONIC MAN' EYEBALL SCAN" HAD RULED OUT ANY POSSIBILITY OF A CONNECTION PROBLEM
6,803 answers provided
The starter cranks the engine. The engine rotates at 226 rpm.
Just to add to this one you never mentioned what your actual comoression readings were?Thats would really help not knowing them is a big variable in my eyes.Also when you checked the compression were all the plugs out the gas oedal to the floor and you cranked it ten revolutions?
Rechecked with WOT, all plugs out & 10 cranks
#1 dry 145, wet 190
#2 120, 175
#3 120, 175
#4 175, 220
Dry cylinders 1-3 there isnt enough compression to run min compression is 175psi for that engine.Even down to 160psi is pushing it for a good burn.Thats strange that you would suddenly loose compression on 3 cylinders.You said you did a cylinder leak down test?If so where was the cylinders leaking down at?
Leakdown tests at 100psi
#1 27% leakage @ exhaust,oil drain (very slight),#2 cylinder
#2 56% exhaust,oil drain, #1 cylinder
#3 40% exhaust,oil drain, #4 cylinder
#4 28% exhaust,#2 cylinder
Certainly has been incomplete combustion - heavy soot on EGR pintle and O2 sensor.
Car is in great shape. Are these engines suitable for rebuilding?
Sounds like your having valve issues but its strange to see it happen so suddenly?Have you checked to make sure cam timing is good?Yes those engines are rebuild able.
Checked timing: with slot in crank pully aligned with mark on timing cover, cam marks were both at 12 o'clock and piston #1 at TDC.
Both cam lobes for #1 cylinder were horizontal.
Did you also make sure the dowl holes were lined up that go thru the cam gears into the head?