Will not start

When you check for spark, are you getting a good blue spark?

Hello,

Ok, what color is the spark? It should be a Bright Bluish/white. If Orange it is weak and will cause a no start problem.

Also since cap and rotor were worn how about the plugs. If cap and rotor were worn then I would have also replaced the plugs.

Also check the wires if cracked or look like original I would replace them also.

Would also check Fuel Pressure and Regulator. Check link below for video on testing....

https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm

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Hi:
How did you check for spark? If you provided the fuel, it should at least try to start. Let me know exactly what you have done so I can help you determine the problem.

Joe

Hi:
If there is spark, we need to check for fuel pressure. Can you hear the fuel pum run for a second when you first turn on the key? Is there any way you could check the fuel pressure? Some parts stores will lend tools.

Also, have you tried using starting fluid to see if it will start?

Joe

Hi:
Is it hot where you are? If so (I'm jealous. I hate winter anymore) lol. If it's hot, it could be a vapor lock. If the car is running now, have the computer scanned for trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free, and it may identify the problem.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

You may have a bad starter. Have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for voltage to the smaller wire on the starter. It should get 12+ volts. If it does, replace the starter. If not, check the relay block to make sure the is power to the starter relay. If there is, switch the relay with one that has the same part number to see if the relay is the problem. If there is no power to the relay, chances are the switch itself is the problem.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I look forward to hearing from you. If you were getting 12+ volts to it when the key was turned to start, the starter is bad.

Let me know. Also, and don't laugh, if you haven't removed the starter yet, smack it with a hammar. Usually, that will jar it and make it work. (It's worth a try) LOL.

Joe

No choke. All that's in the throttle body is the throttle valve and a controlled air passage around it to adjust idle speed. You shouldn't need a block heater. The first thing to look at is if you get a nice idle flare-up to 1500 rpm for a few seconds after starting. If you do not, chances are the battery was recently disconnected or run dead and the Engine Computer has to relearn "minimum throttle". Until that happens, the computer won't know when it has to be in control of idle speed. The engine should start if you hold the gas pedal down 1/4". If that works, to meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals. You could also have fuel pressure bleeding off while the engine is off. To identify that, cycle the ignition switch to "run", wait a few seconds, turn it off for a few seconds, turn it on again, then maybe even a third time, then try to start it. If that works, the most likely cause is a leaking injector but the fuel pressure regulator and the check valve in the pump can cause that too. A rare possibility is worn bushings holding the distributor shaft. If the shaft wobbles enough there can be a signal dropout from the camshaft position sensor. When that signal is missing, the Engine Computer won't turn on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay which powers the injectors, ignition coil, and alternator field. You'll be missing spark when it doesn't start and the injectors won't be firing either. Besides checking for spark you can also measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire to the ignition coil or any injector. You should see full battery voltage for just one second after turning on the ignition switch, then it must come back during engine cranking.

Do you have a check engine light? Try checking the fuel pressure and comeback with the readings this is where we start. Also check the idle air control valve, throtte position/mass aiflow/manifold absolute pressure sensors

Truck ran fine two days ago, went out to start it. But it will not start. Or you can try below to determine if its fuel or spark and then comeback

Get a carb cleaner and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors-

Hi:
It sounds like the starter may be going bad if it isn't turning the engine over. Have a starter amp draw test done at a nationally recognized parts store. Most do it for free.

Joe