My engine wont run?

Tiny
BILLYMAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,204 POSTS
You have to have a min of 59 psi fuel pressure for this truck to start.
Coolant temp sensor fails this truck will not start.

Check fuel pressure and temp sensor
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DLARMP
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 99,000 MILES
Whenever it rains the vehicle will not start it will just crank
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE H R
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,094 POSTS
Check the coil to see if it is cracked and check the wires. You should be able to tell if a wire is bad when you start it and it is dark out, open the hood and see if you can see any wires arching to the ground. I had a coil on a older car that I could not figure how come it would not start when it rained or was very damp. One night I openred the hood and when someone tried to start it I could hear and see the wire shorting out. Check all the connections, make sure they are good and tight. Look for any wires that have been rubbing and worn through.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBEYSMITH
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
About a year after I bought my car, I had a problem with starting it. When I turn the key, it turns over, the rpm goes up and it seems that the car has started. Instead up staying on, immediately the rpm drops to zero and the car dies. It seems to be a sort of electrical problem since the car seems to start better when the radio, a/c, tape deck, and temperature gauge are not on. It doesn't happen all the time, but it seems to start happening more often.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Next time it happens, try this. Have you done a relearn on the pass-key?
GM PASS LOCK RELEARN- Ignition to "run" position, try to start and let key return to "run" position
Approx ten minutes security light will go off
Turn key "off" and wait 5 seconds
Repeat 2 more times for a total of 3 relearns.
Turn key off, then start it
You might want to aslo check the battery and charging sytem.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBEYSMITH
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I tried the key pass relearn thing and there was a whirring sound in the dashboard and the car then started when I tried it again. Is this a one time fix or is it just something I have to do whenever the car doesnt start like that?
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Hard to say, GM's had a tech bulliten for thier tech, it's about loose or poor connections of electrical connectors, so a lot of intermittent problems can stem from bad connections.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FBROWN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 206,000 MILES
I have a 1999 blazer it is hard to start. It takes a bunch of trys to get it to start. Once it starts it idles fine and runs fine.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Use a gage and check fuel pressure. How long since a tune-up?

Try cycling the key on and off a few times, no crank, before you try to start it. That may help prime the system.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 130,000 MILES
Replaced engine with salvaged engine ran good for 150 miles then radiator was filled with chocolate milk first thought was 3 core radiator but coolant was burping out of radiator as in blown head or intake gasket. Replaced upper gaskets and realized it was the radiator still ran good until 195 degrees then died. Pulled engine replaced all gaskets reinstalled engine timing is correct no.1 tdc rotor on the (6) on distributor which is pointing to no.1 plug wire. Engine cranks but will not start getting fuel and spark at no.1 plug but not detenating. Please help.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Choc milk is an indicator of a blown head gasket. Typical of used engines.
You need to most likely remove the engine, remove the heads, have them checked for warpage and cracks, which is common and check the mains and rod bearings for coolant contamination.

Roy
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
No sign of coolant contamination in crank case and had heads magnafluxed and checked for worpage tourqed everything to specs ran fine after first overhaul now on this overhaul not starting the cause of choc. Milk was crack in radiator between oil cooler and antifreeze cooler
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Remember, it needs at least 60 lbs of fuel pressure. Check the compression both wet and dry.
Bring number one to tdc on compression and make sure you have the rotor at number one inside the cap.

Roy
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Okay have told you in first description no.1 is at tdc and rotor is at no.1 new crank position sensor and crank position sensor plenty of fuel pressure and spark at no.1 plug no detination everything torqued to specs have 90lbs compression on all cyl. And holds compression can't be mechanical has to be electrical. I have addressed all the issues you are advising I check cant get it started so no trouble codes to go by yet.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Now is the time you need a scan tool to see if the pcm is seeing a rpm signal from the crank sensor and you need to see the cam signal or timing on the distributor, now called the cam sensor. It has to be 0 degrees plus or minus 5 degrees.
I hope plenty of fuel pressure is 60 at least.

Roy
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
No codes battery was out while repairs where being done yes fuel at 68lbs. Have auto-xray ezlink but when scan is performed no codes come up and when monitoring I can see rpm on screen throtle possition at 7% but not seing air flow rate or fuelair ratio
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Forget about any codes. The only thing left is timing. You need to re verify both chain and distributor timing.

Roy
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Went thru it 6 times no1 at tdc rotor at the number 6 stamped it distributor which points to no.1 plug cranks like out of time. Have beat myself up with this one new cam sensor and new crank sensor changed distributor new rotor and plug and new cap new map new mas air flow new tps new coil new pcv im at wits end
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TOWERSINTHESKY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Engine ran fine before removale from vehicle
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
90 PSI is extremely low for compression. Normally it should be around 120. Try pulling the distributor and reinstalling 180 degrees out from where you currently have it.
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Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:19 PM (Merged)

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