Mechanics

MITSUBISHI VERADA CONDENSER PROBLEM

1997 Mitsubishi Verada • 240,000 miles

Hi, I have already asked the question and have replied but have had no follow up. Ron.
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Ronlfbe26
February 4, 2013.



The previous person may have not seen the automated e-mail directing them back to your post, or it may have been answered by a visitor who did not register to receive those e-mail notifications. At any rate, when you start a new post, put the original question in there again so everyone has a chance to see it. In this case especially, repost your question because now that I've added this replay, it will go off the list. I'm not an expert on or even familiar with your car model, so there's a slim chance I can help.

Caradiodoc
Feb 4, 2013.
Hi, I have a 1997 Mitsubishi Verada XI. When I turn on the A/C the compressor clutch and fan are activated and stay on for about 20 secs then go off and stay off. The pressures have been checked and are OK. Relay also OK. Thank you. Ron.

Tiny
Ronlfbe26
Feb 5, 2013.
Hi, I must also add that this model has climate control.

Tiny
Ronlfbe26
Feb 5, 2013.
I was afraid I wouldn't have an answer for you. All I can suggest is if there is a separate AC condenser fan, it typically cycles on and off at the same time the compressor does but they usually have different relays. That will let you break the system into three parts, the compressor circuit, the fan circuit, and the controls they have in common. If the condenser fan, (or radiator fan), cycle on and off but the compressor does not, suspect the relay has burned contacts or the clutch coil has an intermittent break. More common would be corroded terminals in its connector.

The next suspect would be any type of computer module. I would need a wiring diagram to figure out which wire(s) to check, then I'd want to see what that voltage does when the compressor cycles on and whether that voltage cycles on again but the compressor doesn't respond.

Also be aware that testing system pressures can be misleading. A lot of the charge can be leaked out but as long as there is enough refrigerant in the system for some of it to remain a liquid, some of it will expand into a vapor making the pressures go right back up to normal. You would have to force the compressor to run, then the clue would be less-than-cold air inside and a not-very-hot condenser up front. You may also be able to jump the low-pressure cutout switch. It looks at pressure at a different point than where you attach the gauges. If that makes the compressor run, drain the system and recharge it with the measured amount of refrigerant. That is the only way to know for sure that it is fully-charged.

Wish I could be of more help. Think about reposting the question so the other experts can read it. Also include the engine size and your country if it isn't the U.S. I tried looking up your vehicle for reference and found three different engines and almost no other information.

Caradiodoc
Feb 5, 2013.