Mechanics

TOYOTA CAMRY MECHANIC PROBLEM

1995 Toyota Camry • 20,800 miles

I have a 1995 Camry, 4 cylinder, with 208,000 miles. A month ago, the car would not start. The engine would turn over without a hint of catching. The shop diagnosed “no fire” and replaced the distributor. Two weeks later, the car stalled while driving, and, again, would turn over without starting. The mechanic installed a new battery, A week later, same stalling mid-flight. The mechanic replaced the fuel pump. The problem remains.

The car will run fine and accelerate smoothly, but will eventually begin to cough, RPMs decrease when I give it gas, and eventually stall. The past 2 times, I have tried to start it intermittently for maybe 4 or 5 minutes, and, eventually, it will start, and drive fine for maybe 50-100 miles before the problem starts again.

Any theories? I’m getting desperate!
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Teekay52
February 6, 2013.



Does it start right back up after stalling?

Roy

No. I'll try to start it repeatedly; it will turn with no sign of catching. Then, after maybe 12 attempts, it will catch and f\run fine, for a while.

The mechanics tell me no error codes are being generated.
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Tiny
Teekay52
Feb 6, 2013.
You will have to leave the car with a shop to get it to have the issue. Then they can determine if it spark related or fuel delivery.

We cannot see or touch it and only can guess. Guesses are expensive and most of the time wrong

Roy

The mechanics have been guessing, and guessing wrong. You're right; guesses are expensive.

Tiny
Teekay52
Feb 6, 2013.
Recheck the distributor, the replacement could be faulty as well.

KHLow2008
Feb 6, 2013.
This could be an intermittent 'bad' Mass Air Flow Meter. It could be many things. Maybe something else is making the distributor fail.

Your 'mechanics'. Who are they? Just good overall mechanics - or specialists in your Toyota?

For this, and for the money already spent - I would suggest taking it to the dealer. Your vehicle is not coding; the dealer can get you a deal on a rental car while yours is in the shop if need be. And the reason to take it to the dealer is because they have a 'one fee' DIAGNOSTIC charge.

Here in Seattle, a particular dealer charges a total of $136 (including all taxes shop towel fees, etc.) And no matter the amount of TIME - they tell you WHAT is wrong. It is then your choice if you want to use them to fix; or go somewhere else. But, they do figure out what is wrong. You only have to make sure they tighten stuff back up; sometimes the mechanics 'know' they are going to be doing the fixing - so why re-tighten sensors which are bad, etc. (Cause they are going to be replaced.) That can cause some leaks.

Tiny
DaveS777
Feb 8, 2013.

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