I was driving my dad's 4

CRAIG JASTER

MEMBER
1994 GMC SONOMA
120,000 MILES

I was driving my dad's 4.3 TBI Sanoma the other night, and it died, and wouldn't and still wont start back up. I originally thought it wasn't getting any spark so I replaced the coil, did no good. Then I replaced the Ignition Control Module, did no good. I'm smelling fuel when I crank on it so I don't think there's a problem with the fuel system. I forgot to put the distributor wire back on the coil before I cranked it, and I could hear the crack of the spark grounding out somewhere on the block. I do have spark, but for some reason it's not getting to the plugs. I also made sure the rotor button was turning when I cranked it. Could the distributor be bad? Prior to this problem, we found that we werent getting any spark because there was a pinhole in the heater hose that was flooding out the distributor. That problem has been fixed, but now the problem is back but worse now. There is a small wheel under the rotor button that is in my way too loose, and free moving. Is that supposed to be? When I replaced the ICM I found a small metal clip type piece of metal laying on top of the old one. I'm assuming that this piece of metal came out of this wheel, and is possibly the reason for it being so loose. Maybe?

1 Reply

CRAIG JASTER

MEMBER
46 POSTS

Ok, I havent got any replies to this problem, but I have done some work to the truck to try to resolve the problem. I have found that the problem does not fall under the spark issue that I thought it did. It fuel. We have done some trouble shooting, but are still kind of stumped. The issue is kind of moving around. We didnt have the iac plugged in and got it to start some how, when we realized that it was unplugged, I went ahead and plugged it back in, and instantly, the injectors stopped pulsating, and the fuel pump shut off, in turn killing the engine. Since then we have been unable to get it started again. We replaced the iac with a new one with no result. We have replaced the fuel pump relay, which is under the dash, but the only way we can get the fuel pump to kick on is to jump it from the positive battery terminal to the test wire on the firewall, and still there's no pulse to the injectors. There is 12v on one lead of both of the injectors, but they wont pulsate.
Another thing I have found is the piece of metal that was under the distributor cap came from an old rotor button