starter problems

Either you have a bad solenoid or the starting circuit the purple wire is touching the positive battery cable/terminal at the starter.

Do this remove the small wire from the starter then hook the negative cable back up if it cranks over the solenoid is bad. If it doesn't then the purple wire is shorted to power could be at the ignition switch or somewhere in the wiring harness. This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down this guide and report back.

turn the key on ,radio works ,turn signals work,wipers work,interor lights work. when i turn the key to start the radio goes off but won't engage the starter. starter has been replaced, caan start the truck by crossing the hot wire (red) and the pink and white wire.truck runs but the alarm for lights on buzzes

I'd have to make sure the battery has a full charge and the battery connections are clean and tight on both ends. If you use a digital voltmeter leads across the battery posts, everything turned off, the generic spec for a full charge is 12.6 volts. With the leads still hooked up, have a helper turn the key to crank, while you watch the meter reading, it shouldn't drop below 9 volts, some specs say it should drop below 10 volts. A national brand autostore should be able to load test the battery for you and charge if necessary.

The starter solenoid S terminal, purple wire, should be hot with the key in the crank position? If it isn't, backtrack that circuit. It comes from the ignition switch to tranny range sensor to starter solenoid.

[quote:6e1e560203="joegene"]Electrical problem
1995 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 249663 miles

turn the key on ,radio works ,turn signals work,wipers work,interor lights work. when i turn the key to start the radio goes off but won't engage the starter. starter has been replaced, caan start the truck by crossing the hot wire (red) and the pink and white wire.truck runs but the alarm for lights on buzzes[/quote:6e1e560203]

Let me ask you this. If you hold the key in the start position for a while does smoke come out from under the hood? Please have the hood up for this test so if it does smoke you can turn it off right away.
If you get no smoke then the wire isnt shorted out at the starter. You may think this is funny but I have a no start '94 suburban sitting outside that I just bought for practically nothing that is doing that.

If the above smoke doesn't appear then you probably have a bad ignition switch. Except in your case you said the radio would go off. This makes me suspicous that the start solenoid wire is shorted to ground. Check the volt gauge for signs of current draw. When you just turn the key on the voltages should be 11 or 12. If the circuit is open then the volt meter wont move when you go to the start position. If it does move then the wire is shorted out somewhere. Likely the short is near the starter someplace where the wire has rubbed on some metal or been stretched. Or where the smoke comes from if you hold it on. :)

This is a 350ci .Starter engages but will not turn flywheel. Started out when I got the truck the starter acted like it was going out. The common dragging. Going to replace soon. Drove it ten miles today shut it off ten minutes then tried to start it and it turned over three times then click. Thought well its out now. Put a used one on that I new worked. Came off my father in laws 1994 350 truck. Nothing happened. Even had new battery on it. Pulled to his house tested both starters with jump cables and battery both worked great. So I am thinking no power to starter. Ground wire (little red wire) looked like it got hot, it was very close to manifold. So I cut it and sliced with same Gauge wire. Now I got that one click back. But will not turn over. Pulled starter off and left wires connected and bumped key. It engaged like it should (tried both starters like this and both worked) so thought it was in a bind. We shimmed it and tightened bolts side to side evenly. Still one click like in a bind. Just could not figure it out. Pulled dust shield off of bell housing thought could be that still same thing. Check grounds and harness behind engine and found nothing. Now I found the ground strap from fire wall and back of block bolted together and from there bolted to frame. Looked rusted and rough going to look at that more in morning since I give up tonight. Checked fuses turned fly wheel with screw driver and turned alternator with breaker bar and engine turned over like it should and checked oil and coolant and all great. Oil only has one hundred miles on it. All I keep getting is one click please help bout to push truck in the river. Any help please.

Chevrolet starters have to be shimmed a lot of times if it works on one vehicle but not another then you may need shims available at auto parts it can take one or two. see pictures. if starter makes a lot of noise after one shim it may need another. lower fusible link runs off of battery in picture.

Okay, tried to but still same. Acts like its not getting all power according to gauge in the truck.

Starter will turn over fine if not bolted in place but when bolted in place it goes in but acts like not enough juice to turn over the engine and will not disengage from fly wheel.

this may need shims if there are not any. has starter been tested at auto parts? it may be a bad starter or does engine turn over easy or at all?

Well fixed the problem an truck starts better than ever with the starter that came off truck.it was not grounded good. Who ever put motor in truck had negative battery cable connected to air conditioning pump. Figured this because we took negative sides of jumper cables one to battery and one to frame and truck turned over. So we moved battery ground to cleaned frame and still turned over slow so we add a same gage wire to the same frame ground and from there to intake. Fired right up. Thanks for your help.

glad it's fixed but do two more things,make sure there is a ground from engine to body , 10 gauge wire or the copper clad wire is good for this and one from battery to body as well as battery to ground point on frame. the engine one is important because if not connected it will melt the shift cable and truck will start in drive.as well as other grounds to make body stuff like switchs/lights work better. normally on small blocks ground wire goes from back of cylinder head to firewall on pass side.

New battery, new starter, and all connections clean. Only clicks once and draws way down. No relay on this. Starter need shimmed? Would it do this if neutral sensor relay were bad? Ignition? Do not want to keep putting new parts into it. Thank you.

Drawing battery voltage down very low indicates the starter motor and all its circuitry are okay and the motor is trying to rotate. System voltage would jump back up a lot once the starter motor got up to speed. Try rotating the crankshaft by hand. If you cannot, try rotating it backward, then forward again. If it turns backward then there is a hard clunk when going forward, something is broken inside the engine. If it gets steadily harder to turn going forward, remove the spark plugs, then try again. Watch for gas or coolant coming out of one spark plug hole. That would indicate that cylinder was hydro-locked. Once the liquid is expelled, the starter will spin the engine real fast. Put the spark plugs back in and the engine should start.

For about a month now , I've had trouble starting my truck. you could turn the key and all the normal dash lights come on, but when you turn the key to start it all the dash light go out and nothing, it does not crank. So I would move the shifter back and forth and it would turn over, but now even that doesn't work. could it be the neutral safety switch or the starter or is it the ignition switch. I'm really stumped on this one if you have any ideas I really would like to hear them. Thank You for all you can tell me

you will have to test to see if neutral switch is getting and sending power. if not it's probably the ignition switch then test to see if starter is doing the same it's the yellow wire on neutral switch for input and purple for output. starter is purple wire on "S" terminal. if neutral switch doesn't get power then it's the iginition switch.

My truck wont start. I got a good charge from the battery but it wont even try to turn over. what things can I do?

What is litre size of engine? Your saying the starter motor won't crank?

Turn on the headlamps, turn key to crank, Is there any reaction from headlamps? If the lamps go out or almost then usually, suspect the battery or cables. If the lamps stay bright, maybe an open circuit to starter? If this is an automatic tranny, could be an issue with neutral switch. Could be an issue with starter itself? Some of the national brand autostores will test the starter for you.

Have you done any voltage testing at the starter, itself? Battery voltage at the starter is hot all the time. Crank voltage at the starter goes hot with key in the crank position. Any testing at the starter, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and the parking brake is set.

Electrical problem
1994 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

All the lights are bright and do not dim when the key is turned. I have checked the neutral switch OK. The starter was replaced 3 years ago and the battery less than 2 years. This happened once, but started after a few tries.

It could be the ignition switch. Remove the ignition relay located in the under the hood relay fuse box. Jump out the terminals that control the starter..If the starter turns over then it is probably the ignition switch -- if not then it is probably the starter solonoid..

I have a '94 Chevy Silverado, 5.7 V8, and for some time now it will not turn over. When it does this, there is no sound at all, no clicking, no growling, no sound at all. This happens at any time, warm or cold. Then maybe 1 hour later or 2 days later, it starts right back up as if there was no problem at all. It could happen today or tomorrow or 6 weeks from now. I am clueless why this is happening. Any thoughts?

Hello first check the connections at the battery if they are ok then check the ones at the starter and if they are ok then you may have a bad starter this will be sometimes be a problem that doesn"t happen all the time. I hope this will help you

1st question: the last few weeks I have had to jiggle the keys to get it started. When I would first insert the key it would easily turn to the first position (accessory) but I would have to jiggle it to get it to go to ignition (start). Now yesterday no matter what I do it will not start it will not go to ignition its there is something blocking it or something with the ignition switch is wore out. My question is where do I start in fixing this problem.

replace the lock cylinder.

evap leak may not leak into vents. replace the compressor. make sure you replace the dryer and the orfice tube

Roy

Ok I will replace the compressor but can you explain why and or where all my refrigerant two cans is gone in two days and I never see any green dye anywhere

Can someone explain to me why the refrigerant is leaking out so rapidly

The refrigerant is most likely leaking from the compressor. Since you said it is making noise, there is most likely internal wear.

Be sure to have the system fully evacuated prior to cracking it open to replace the compressor. Not doing so is a felony in many parts of the country. Once you have the compressor and receiver/dryer replaced, have it fully evacuated again to remove all contaminants and water vapor before charging it.

1994 Chevy Silverado 2 WD 4.3L V-6 won't turn over. When I turn the ignition switch on, the battery symbol won't light up on the dash and there's no indication the engine even knows i'm turning the ignition switch. There's no sound of the starter trying to engage or anything. It's just dead quiet, no clicking, no nothing. I've checked the battery (good) and recently replaced the positive battery cable. However, the headlights are bright, the engine compartment light is strong, blinkers work, all the guages work but the wipers won't go on.

I've recently replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor, and rotor.

Also, lately while driving, usually at cruising speeds, the engine seems to be hesitating somewhat.

It sounds like you have a ground problem i would check your ground wire.

Also, lately while driving, usually at cruising speeds, the engine seems to be hesitating somewhat.[/quote]

I'm going to put you out of you're misery so you won't have to go through what I went through. You have a bad PMD (Pump Motor Driver also called a Fuel Solenoid). It is attached to the right hand side of the injection pump. These things go bad so often, and mysteriously they have been the terror of all diesel Silverado owners; until they figure out the symptoms....stalling while driving, hiccupping then refusing to start, etc. Go to accuratediesel.com for a good description and diagnostic criteria for a bad PMD.

They also sell a retrofit which will save you hundreds of dollars in repair bills. With a retrofit you can relocate the PMD rather than replace it, in its difficult to get to original location. There are many of these plug-in retro fits out there. Accurate just has a great price and one of the best diagnostic descriptions I found in my search. .

The PMD can go bad on its own, but it can also go bad because of the lift pump. If your truck starts when you install the new PMD, but continues to hiccup, replace the lift pump ASAP before the old one ruins your new PMD. Good luck.

The PMD is the most common part to cause engine failure in the Silverado.

I had a truck that did that and it was a wire on the wright hand side on the firewall its a black bow with wires going to it and if you take the cover off of it there is a wire going to the back of the motor and mine burnt into so check that and see if that is it

Starter is good. having trouble finding where the purple wire goes to from the solenoid. I can't see a relay in the fuse box is there one?

Hi,

The purple wire in this truck will run to the park/neutral safety switch. I attached a pic below which shows the entire wiring schematic for the starter. Let me know if it helps or if you have other questions.

By the way, there isn't a starter relay on this vehicle.

The switch I'm referring to will be on the left side of the transmission approximately in the middle of the transmission. See pic 2.

Take care,
Joe