Engine not running

Correction: The Fuse that went out said ERLS.

This can be a number of things. From what I've been able to find, the usual culprit here is the TCC, either faulty or unplugged.

If the TCC was unplugged where would I be able to find it?

There would be an electrical connector hanging loose somewhere near the transmission.

alright, I'll have a look at it sometime in the morning.

Ok, let us know what you find.

I didn't find anything loose at all around the transmission. Also while I was looking around the engine my friend had an idea that we tried. He used a spray can of Start up. The car tried to start when he sprayed it into the mass airflow meter.

I did some more research on this and found out some related information:

The QDM is built into the PCM The most common failures are the EGR solenoid or the Canister Purge solenoid.

Check all computer and sensor grounds.

Other information says it may be the ECM since a number of sensors usually don't fail at once.

The attached image may be helpful.

According to the mechanic that bailed on he tested 3 different ECM's and switched out the PROM's He said that the ECM and PROMS were good. First, how would I go about checking all the sensor grounds? Second, where exactly is the EGR solenoid / Canister Purge Solenoid located? Would it be found in my Haynes book? Thanks again for the info.

Yes. It should be in the Haynes Manual. The Canister Purge Solenoid is #8 in the image I sent earlier. The EGR solenoid is part of the EGR Valve.

Ok, I changed out the purge solenoid and tried to start the car and got nothing. Still won't go. I wanted to state before the mechanic bailed on me. He was testing the injectors with a light. When the car was trying to crank no light came through it. He played with the injectors using a 12v light and it came on. I can only to so much I'm limited on funds and do not have the proper know how. I wish I could take it to a shop but it's impossible.

I know the feeling. Normally, considering your last post, I'd say check the fuel injector relay, but I can't find any mention of one in my reference material. Check the convenience center under the dash and the main fuse/relay box under the hood for a circuit protection device labelled fuel injection.

ok, I looked under the hood and found 5 relays in a black box below the ABS brake computer....but they are not labeled what they are. I honestly don't know how to test them exactly to see which ones are good or bad? Because I don't know how to use a voltmeter? Thanks again for your help.

Do they have any sort of wiring diagrams on the top (the relays)? My reference material doesn't list relays and fuses by use and location. Try and locate an owners manual or request one from the local GM dealership. It will show what relays and fuses are in what locations. The latest model I can find online is for a 99.

I checked out the relays in the black box but didn't find a wiring diagram. I'm still waiting on the owner's manual. I had to purchase one since my original one is somewhere in storage. Also, I did this on a whim. I went to the local junkyard to get 5 relays and removed and replaced the ones in the black box. The car still didn't start.

Ok. The theory of the operation of a relay is this:
There is a magnetic switch that is closed when one side is connected to ground and power is applied to the other side. On the other side of this switch is a higher current power source. When the relay is energized, this high current is applied to the powered circuit. Make sure the relay is receiving switching power when the ignition is in the "On/Run" position, as well as while starting. Set the meter to 20VDC if there is a range switch, or just set it to read VDC. Attach the black lead to a good source of ground, like the battery negative or a wire to the ground. Probe the underside of the relay with the red meter lead. The relay and base should be labeled with numbers per the image.

I wish I knew where this problem is at. I'm unable to see this diagram very well. Also, I had another mechanic look at it. He took out the aftermarket alarm system and put the wires back together. I had a new computer and PROM installed and got nothing. Also the mechanic bailed on me again. All I can say is that no spark going to the plugs or the injectors.

Try downloading the image to your computer so you can view it in higher resolution. Right click the thumbnail and select 'Save Image As'. That way you should be able to magnify it.

Hello again! I wanted to thank you for your help. What happened was that the backyard mechanic messed up the harmonic balancer and it hit the crank sensor. I was able to get it fixed with help from my brother and an in-law. Now I need to figure out how to replace the PCV valve and wondering what is the best way to go at it? any help would be grateful.

PCV valves are usually located in one of the valve covers and have a tube or hose going to the air cleaner.

Again, scan tool data and trouble codes would have saved all the guesswork. But what do I know I just do this for a living.

Yeah, tech, us experts do too, or did for a number of years. Like me. I was raised fixing cars. I started working on them at my dad's shop back in 1972. Problem is, usually only mechanics can buy something like a scantool and be able to afford it.

a faulty crank sensor signal or missing signal would have been picked up by a scan tool so quickly. you led him from a tcc, to an unplugged harness at the transmission (which i have never seen an unplugged harness blow a fuse), to an egr solenoid, to a cannister purge solenoid, almost to an ecm, to an injector relay, and if he haden't found the problem on his own you would have kept him running around. you didn't even have him probe anything until he asked how to check the injector relay. lol, "expert". you ignored the 1st MOST IMPORTANT SYMPTOM, he had a blown erls fuse. right there the thing to do would have been get a schematic and go to power distribution of the erls fuse. then physically check each component for obvious damage, like what he found. and my comment about the scan tool didn't mean for him to buy one i know he can't afford it, just how you know he couldn't afford to throw that many parts at the car without fixing it, lol. it's great that he found the problem, but if it wasn't that obvious
(a broken sensor) than sending it to the dealer would have been the better option than throwing parts at it. i've seen situations where faulty aftermarket parts only compounded the problems a vehicle came in with, all from people getting "free advice" and throwing parts at it. by the way you can check for a crank signal without a scan tool, did you know that??? and i didn't grow up working on cars, sometimes that's the problem with some mechanics, they pick up alot of bad habits by the time they get taught the RIGHT WAY TO DIAGNOSE. but to give you benefit of the doubt i commented on this post AFTER the problem had been solved. let's try another GM electrical problem from the beginning and see who hits their mark 1st, lol.

Ok. You're a god. You know fifty times as much as someone who's been working on cars since probably before your parents were born. And learned from people who started working on cars probably before your grandparents were born.

roflmao

We don't take well to trolls in our threads "tech"

Ok, I got a new issue I got a code 43 for the Knock sensor. I was wondering where is it located exactly on my car and a picture if possible. I'm having a hard time locating it around my engine block. once again this is for a 1992 Pontiac Grand Am 3.3L V6 engine.

Lower right front of the engine near the oil pressure switch.