Jeep won't start

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.

YOUR SOLENOID LOOKS DIFFERENT THAN MINE---THE PERFORM THE SAME JOB

IF YOUR BATTERY IS SHOWING AT LEAST 12 VOLTS OR JUMPING DOES NOT WORK

I SUSPECT THAT ITS A DIRTY OR CORRODED CONNECTION ISSUE

I DO NOT KNOW YOUR RIG MUCH AT ALL, I KNOW "REAL JEEPS" REALLY WELL!

IT MIGHT BE POSSIBLE THAT YOU HAVE A FUSE BLOWN OR IN NEED OF BEING SNATCHED IN AND OUT SEVERAL TIMES TO CLEAN ITS BLADES

YOUR OWNERS MANUAL SHOULD GIVE YOU LOCATIONS OF ALL FUSE BLOCKS (MAY HAVE SEVERAL) AND READING WHAT THEIR PURPOSE IS IN THE MANUAL MAY HELP YOU NOT TO STAND ON YOUR HEAD TO READ THE BLOCKS UNDER THE DASH

REGARDLESS--THIS IS MOSTLY COMMON SENSE AS TO WHAT TO DO IF YOU USE THIS LINK AS A GUIDE

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-wrangler-1991-jeep-wrangler-starting-problems

GOOD LUCK

RETURN BEARING GIFTS AND GOOD NEWS!

THE MEDIC

I THOUGHT THE POST I LINKED TO YOU HAD MORE INFO

LATER ONES THAT I CONSTRUCTED, I PUT MORE SPECIFIC STUFF IN

SO HERE IT ISMANY PEOPLE GET "LAZY" AND DO NOT DO A THOROUGH JOB

"CONNECTIONS" DOES NOT MEAN JUST YOUR BATTERY POSTS AND CLAMPS OR JUST THE SOLENOID CONNECTIONS

IT MEANS ANY AND EVERYTHING THAT MR. BATTERY MUST TRAVEL THROUGH TO MAKE A WONDERFUL (100%) COMPLETE CIRCUIT!

SO. YOU MUST NOT JUST LOOK AT A CONNECTION OF ANY SORT AND SAY "THAT LOOKS GOOD!"

YOU HAVE TO TAKE THEM APART, CLEAN, AND TIGHTEN THEM WELL, OR AT LEAST TIGHTEN, THEN, GIVE IT A WHIRL (BEFORE YOU GO TO THE TROUBLE OF TAKING THEM APART)

THESE ARE TYPICAL CONNECTIONS AND MANY ARE IGNORED--TILL THE FELLER AT THE SHOP HITS YOU UP HARD $$$--WHEN ALL HE DID WAS CLEAN AND TIGHTEN UP A GROUND WIRE---AND CHARGES FOR HAULING YOU THERE!

SO BE METICULOUS AND THOROUGH

BATTERY POSTS---

THE CLAMPS THAT CLAMP ONTO THEM, OR SCREWS INTO THEM

THE SQUEEZE DEALEE THAT SQUEEZES THE WIRE TO THE CLAMP--THAT HOOKS ONTO THE BATTERYPOSITIVE AND NEGATIVE (SQUEEZER AND WIRE ENDS, THEY MUST FIT TIGHT WHEN SQUEEZED)

THE CONNECTIONS ON THE SOLENOID--NOT ONLY THE BIG CABLES--MAKE SURE THE LITTLE ONES AIN'T BEEN "BUMPED OFF" OF THEIR LITTLE STUDS

MINE ARE EZ TO KNOCK LOOSE, I HAD TO MOVE MY SOLENOID TO ACCOMMODATE MY TRAIN HORN--NOW I CAN KNOCK MY "S" WIRE OFF WHEN I PULL MY DIPSTICK, SOMETIMES I STILL FORGET AND GET THE SAME FEELING YOU HAVE NOW. FOR ABOUT 60 SECONDS, WHEN I ATTEMPT TO START HIM UP!

IF YOU HAVE DONE THAT--ONE POSITIVE WIRE IS LEFT---SOLENOID TO THE STARTER--SAME APPLIES FOR THAT CONNECTION TOO!

BACK TO THE BATTERY--NEGATIVE WIRE MOST LIKELY CONNECTS TO THE ENGINE SOMEWHERE. YOU KNOW THE DRILL THERE. TAKE APART/ CLEAN / TIGHTEN!

USUALLY THAT GROUND TRANSFERS THRU THE ENGINE METAL---THEN ANOTHER WIRE JUMPS FROM THE ENGINE TO THE FRAME

SOMEWHERE IN THE GROUNDS--IT WILL USUALLY JUMP TO THE BODY (THIS WOULD BE WHERE CONTROLS AND SUCH GET A GROUND)

USUALLY THE CIRCUIT IS:

KEY ACTIVATES SOLENOID

SOLENOID CONNECTS POS BATTERY TO STARTER

STARTER NEEDS GROUND--GETS IT FROM ENGINE

ENGINE NEEDS GROUND--GETS IT FROM BATTERY

IF YOU CAN FIND 'EM CHECK 'EM

ALL I CAN DO NOW IS, HAVE YOU FLY ME OUT THERE!

GOOD LUCK AND MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU!

PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT WORKED!

THE MEDIC