Engine dies within 2-3 seconds of starting

Tiny
JIM DEWING
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 CHRYSLER FIFTH AVENUE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 196,000 MILES
My problem after initially starting my car is it dies with 2-3 seconds.

My vehicle was recently tuned up. New plug wires as well. Runs great for a 3.8L.

It's acting like the auto-theft device is kicking in and shutting the engine off.
Yet it's not flashing on the dash. All it shows is "check engine."
Is this (shutoff device) be something that can be shutoff internally within the computer?
My transmission specialist has a portable module that he uses to set or reset whatever he checks within
the transmission.

Mechanically, this car has been kept in excellent working order. It has a new fuel pump in the gas tank
as well as new fuel filter put in within the last 5000 miles.


Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 4:01 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,742 POSTS
Will it stay running if you hold the gas pedal down a little? If so, the battery was recently disconnected or run dead. The Engine Computer will have to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

Caradiodoc
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Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
JIM DEWING
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No. Normally regardless of the winter temperature, it doesn't need gas to run. Now even if I give it gas, it will die before I can put it in gear. I will check the battery condition. A month ago the battery did go dead on me. Yet 2 days ago, I drove it approx. 150 miles with no problems whatsoever. I might also add that thinking it was the autoshutdown relay, I pulled out the old one reset it, then it started up and performed flawlessly on my trip. Yesterday I replaced the relay as no one I know of can check it to see if the relay is bad or not. Now regardless of which relay I use, it dies right away.
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Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 4:31 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,742 POSTS
To check the relays, just swap two identical ones. I usually pick the starter relay because it's real fast and easy to tell if it is working.

Try unlocking the passenger front door with the key. If that lets the engine start, suspect broken wires between the driver's door hinge, or less-commonly, the disarm switch in the driver's door is defective or disconnected. If I remember correctly, if the problem is related to the switch, the anti-theft light will blink for 16 times showing it is turned on, when you close the doors after NOT pressing the lock button on the driver's door or the remote key fob. Locking the doors manually with the k n o b s on the doors should not turn the system on. I can't remember if using the key in the door will turn it on. When the system is armed and causing a no-start condition, the parking lights will flash repeatedly when you crank the engine. If the lights are not flashing, it is more likely you have a problem not related to the anti-theft system.

If the anti-theft light does not flash when closing the doors, you can use a scanner to view sensor and switch state. "Fuel request" will be listed as "allowed" or "denied" or as "on" and "off" depending on the brand of scanner. Many auto parts stores are borrowing equipment and tools but for a scanner, which is considerably more significant than a simple code reader, you might have to go to a mechanic. I use the Chrysler DRB2 and DRB3 for all of my cars and vans including a '93 Dynasty which is the twin to your car.

Caradiodoc
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Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 6:28 PM

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