Mechanics

MY 3.0L INTERMITTENTLY WON'T START WITH THE KEY AND I HAVE TO JUMP THE STARTER POSTS, HOW DO I FIX THAT?

1988 Chrysler New Yorker • 335,000 miles

The vehicle runs a little rough, seems to have a misfire under load around 1500 - 3000 RPM, if it is abused(hard acceleration after another) it(can stall and) will refuse to start no matter what I try. It will also stall or not start(no crank) on very hot days, above 85 degrees F. I changed the computer 2.5 years ago which made this happen so I re-installed the old one and it started and ran fine for a year and a half. I changed the ignition cylinder 3 years ago when I found one day my key would not come out(which also led to my breaking the tilt trying to get the key out by hand). I bought the car 4.5 years ago and replaced the valve guides and intake seals/gaskets, water pump, idler pulley, timing belt. I was not able to remove the EGR and install my new one as I did not have a torch and the nuts are literally round. The car will not crank using the key intermittently but it will start if I jump the starter, the fuel pump cycles, the thermostat is new, I still own the other ECM but the car performed the same with it which is why I put the old one back in. I suspect a short/faulty relay somewhere in the cranking circuits, what should I do and who has a crank system wiring diagram?
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Kyle_Billing
September 30, 2011.




When it doesn't crank, do you mean the starter won't engage or it won't start?

The starter will not engage, the first try is followed by a click, every one after by nothing, time seems to be the only thing that will allow it to start.

Tiny
Kyle_Billing
Sep 30, 2011.
It sounds like the starter is hitting a dead spot. Take a hammer and tap on it. If it works, replace the starter. Ther bendix or armature is bad.
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Like I said, I replaced the starter already, it always had the no crank in hot weather condition, just recently it started the almost every time stuff. It is a very perplexing problem because replacing the starter didn't fix the problem, I replaced it mid Aug and it still had the intermittent no crank. I'm just lost with this thing.

Tiny
Kyle_Billing
Oct 1, 2011.
If you are getting a click, that tells me there is power to the bendix (solenoid). That is coming from the ignition. From there, the bendix energizes the starter itself that already has 12 volts direct from the battery. Are you certain that the power supply from the battery is clean, tight, and the battery cable is in good condition? Also, is the ground from the battery to the engine clean and tight?

Please bear with me. Not being there makes it difficult. I understand that you have already replaced the starter and it most likely isn't the problem. However, based on the description of the problem, it sounds exactly like it. Do this. When it only clicks, have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for voltage to the smaller wire on the starter. Let me know how many volts you get. Also, let me know if you need any wiring schematics that may help you.


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