WHAT COULD THE CAUSE BE OF MY ELECTRICAL ISSUES? (MANY SYMPTOMS)
1987 Cadillac Seville • 130 miles
I have been having electrical issues I havent been able to resolve and I know this but I never thought it would go this far, I have had a little trouble keeping the readout on the digital info center for my battery voltage at the correct level, though when tested at the battery and alternator gives a good strong reading with a volt meter, and also have had my engine temp sensor flickering and or even staying on when the car is off and it seemed to go on and off when I hit bumps and it liked to dim and sometimes go off at higher rpms, it should never stay on when the car is off though I would think so im guessing that is a key factor, then one day everything fell apart, my dashboard went completely out, smoke poured from out of it and my gauge cluster was done for, also taking out my dic and climate control but only the display seems to be out on that I can still turn on and off and I believe even adjust the climate control, I suspected the bcm or cps central power supply the unit that supplies voltage to the lcd displays so I replaced them both, swapping chips in the bcm of course I did it correctly, and put in a new gauge cluster, different resistors went up in smoke but the same general thing happened. Smoke, gauge cluster #2 done for, and I have no clue what to do but I have no speedometer or gas gauge so im stuck. Also I will add that I have read that aftermarket radios can cause issues but this issue didnt start rearing its ugly head till a year after I put in the new stereo and I had it removed when I put the new cluster in, and I also added an aftermarket antenna relatively recently which goes to the remote wire of my stereo and an amp controlled by a relay I put in myself which also runs to the remote wire neither of which always engages it sometimes seems to not get enough voltage across to hit the switch, and one last adjustment I have made to the car is an upgraded cs144 alternator, from the old style 120amp to the new style 140. As far as replacing things distributor is all new guts, alternator I rebuilt with a heavy duty rectifier, plugs and wires may be bad, battery is brand new, new power and ground cables 4ga wire. Any clues or suggestions would be more than welcome I am at a loss
September 7, 2011.
September 7, 2011.
Engine temp warning light is what is flickering, sorry there are alot of issues and I tried to get them all in so you could have a better idea of what is all going on, but apon checking the temperature via the dic it was at normal operating temp and at times the light would stay on with the car off, keys out, even left for hours untouched
Sep 7, 2011.
Sep 7, 2011.
Check for bad grounds. Check wiring to the main power block under the hood. There are so many issues here, I feel a body ground or weak battery connection is related.
I will see what I can find, I thought it might be ground related but I wired up all the main ground connections with new wire and the battery connection is good, my main issue is really just the gauge clusters literally burning up on me, I can drive it if I can just get a gauge cluster to work and not start smoking and burning components, and if its a bad ground I dont really see how it could cause that, less ground would mean less amps passing through the connection and less likely to overload and burn the circuit up I would think
It could be the cluster itself. However, I'm looking for a cheaper solution.
Even went to the trouble of replacing the bcm and the central power supply(from what ive heard this is responsible for powering the lcd lights in the cluster and the dic which is also out, the dic however may just require the cluster to work) before putting the new cluster in, still it burned
Yes, the BCM does that. I would check to make sure grounds are all there and then have the cluster itself checked.
I have gone through two clusters though, I got a new one put it in and it fried just like the first immediately, and though the bcm does the outputs for readouts there is actually a seperate module specifically for power output to the lcds lighting, called the central power supply, I replaced all 3 things, making sure to swap out the chips in the bcm, all components matched they were from an 88 eldo, and the boards were fine on the new speedometer the car had just been wrecked I pop it in and turn the key and there goes the new one, and it wouldnt even stop smoking when the key turned off I had to yank it to stop the smoking
And at this point checking the clusters would be useless anyhow, they both literally burned components, resistors burnt half way through, capacitors swelled, they are both done for after me starting the car
If that is the case, are you sure the alt isn't putting out too much power?
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