CV axle problems and replacement?

Tiny
CYNTHIAGARZA467
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 3,000 MILES
Well, I started removing CV axle but only half of it came out the other part stayed inside the transmission. I know it has a lock on it so I need to hit it hard so lock can open up and release the CV axle, but still doesn't want to come out. I removed the motor mount so I can have space to be able to hit it and remove it. Can you be able to help me out? Thank you
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Sunday, July 7th, 2019 AT 8:51 PM

30 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

I assume it is the right side axle?

The axle sits in a bracket and there is a C clip that has to be removed. Once that is removed, it is always difficult to get the axle to come out of the bracket. The use of an air hammer has the best results for getting it to move.

Roy
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Monday, July 8th, 2019 AT 2:22 AM
Tiny
ZEMLIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
The CV joints in my '97 camry 190,000 miles are toast. Ordering rebuilt half-shafts today. Transaxle seals are listed as a "related item" on the web site.

When I pull the half-shafts out, will I be pulling the shafts out of these seals? If so, I'd be open to replacing them. If the output shaft from the transmission remains intact, I don't think I want to try to dig the seals out from around the shaft.

Should or order the seals, or not?
Thanks!

Any tips on replacing the half-shafts are welcome and appreciated!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,262 POSTS
Look at where the CV shafts go into the transmission.
If there is just a slight amount of dampness there, then I normally don't mess with it.

But if I can tell that they are actually dripping then i"ll go ahead and do it.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CKLAUS12
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 65,000 MILES
I took my car in for right & left CV joint (half shaft) repair.
After the repair, I noticed a noise that sounded like my car had a jet engine.
When I took it back to the mechanic. He said that the bearing & seals in the right side now needed repaired.
I asked if the half shaft repair caused the bearing & seals to go bad. Of course, he wouldn't admit anything!
Can you tell me if the half shaft repair could have damaged the bearing & seals?
Thanks for any help !
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MECHANIC
  • 673 POSTS
What bearing and seal? Are you talking about the wheel bearing? If you are, then I would guess maybe. It depends on what happened when they were doing the axle.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CKLAUS12
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes, the wheel bearing & seals where the new half shaft was replaced. I thought that they should have paid at least half the cost since they could have caused this to need repaired!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MECHANIC
  • 673 POSTS
Why did you have the axles replaced. Was it because the cv boots were ripped?Were the axles making a clicking noise? Because if they weren't then the boots could have just been replaced. Not sure how they got the axles out. Never really heard anything about a wheel bearing noise after axles being replaced unless they really beat on the axle hard to get it out of the hub.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CKLAUS12
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Both CV boots were totally ripped and oil (lubricant)was all over the place! I never heard a clicking noise. Only a whirring. Like a jet engine. Which they said a bad wheel bearing will make. I had to go in again today to pick up a tire valve cap that they forgot to put back on. So I asked if they would at least pay half. OF COURSE, I got an infatic, "NO!" The manager said that Firestone has machines that are calibrated to set the torque and specifications are set on the machines, so that all parts are set accordingly. I said, " I understand about the machines, but the mechanic can make a mistake!" To make a long story short.I have to pay the $600 bill!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MECHANIC
  • 673 POSTS
So did you hear the noise before or after the axle replacement? It probably would have been cheaper just to relace the boots on your vehicle, other than to replace the axle. So this is my personal opinion on this. The wheel bearing was probably on its way out the door anyway, but they were the final nail in the coffin for it to show up. This is my guess. They either did not torque the axle nut at the right torque(which you do not use a machine for, you use a torque wrench) or they beat on the axle out of the hub so hard they might have damaged the bearing a bit. That is just my guess of what happened. This is why I don't trust most tire stores to do actaul repairs. What do they primarily do? I'll tell ya, TIRES.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OVERTHETOP
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 TOYOTA CAMRY
Drive Train Axles Bearings problem 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Right cv axel has been loosened from right side, lock bolt and snap ring have been removed from bearing support bracket. It should pull right out of the transaxle by now and it isn't moving. Am I missing something?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DSPLC
  • MECHANIC
  • 220 POSTS
Yes. You need a long solid pry bar to separate the cv axle from the transmission. If you have a new cv axle, you should see an O ring clip on the shaft side which you insert it inside the transmission. The O ring metal clip is the lock so as the cv axle not to separate/ or the CV axle not from moving from it's place.

Here is a guide to show you how

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Insert the pry bar between the transmission and the CV axle, and use a slight force prying so as to separate the cv axle.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Im actually working on a 99 Solara, but they are the same body.

On the passenger side the intermediate bar isnt sliding out of the trans like it should. Tried prying at it but all Ive managed so far is to bend the metal flange. Removed the round clip at the intermediate-axle, but the bearing assembly seems to be stuck in the mount.

Attempted to remove the mount from the body, along with the mount for the intermediate bar from the trans. No luck.

Any ideas?
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DSPLC
  • MECHANIC
  • 220 POSTS
You are right. On the passenger side axle, once you remove the lock bolt and spring clip, you should be able to remove the axle from the transmission.

I asked another mechanic and check some answers around. It is hard to remove the axle because the carrier bearing is seized inside the mount. He removed the mount that is attached to the engine block, pulled the whole axle with the mount still attached and got the bearing pressed out of the mount.

If ever you get the bearing out, put an anti-seized compund for future removal.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Alright, thanks, I guess I'll just continue to beat it with a hammer.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I replaced both front axles on my 2001 Camry. I was about to give up on getting the old ones out and then learned of a device called a "slide hammer" also called an axle puller I think, that you can rent for free (by paying a refundable deposit) at Advance Auto or Autozone. It is a steel shaft with a heavy sliding weight used to jerk the axle out. It has a hook (one of many attachments included) to fit over whatever you can grab onto on the axle shaft. It will beat you to death, but it worked and I yanked both axles out with it. Good luck!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Wow, ok, that helps alot NC, I appreciate it. Didnt know they made such a thing (although thinking about it I should have guessed)

I spent yesterday hammering at it, with no joy then either. Im off to autozone this afternoon.

Thanks again!
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Get your wife or girlfriend to hold the hook down on the axle (with a towel covering to protect her hand) and have her shout words of encouragement when it finally starts to move...


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/270422_DSCN4760_1.jpg

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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Haha! Well I dont know about you NC, but I have friends who want to come over and help me work on my car. You know, that whole 'manly bonding' thing.

I havent gotten a chance to work on the car anymore or rent the ram in the last couple of days, been really busy, but I hope to accomplish this sometime next week.
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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MALICHI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Well, got the ram, but I'm currently at an impasse.

Where am I supposed to attach the hooks/bracket? I cant attach it at the end of the transaxle, due to the intermediate bar and the uni joint. I would really not want to pull apart that uni joint...

I wish I had my engine in this state already! This is just a picture I found, but of the same engine. The highlighted part is the intermediate bar and the rest of the transaxle.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/268770_CarrierFit_1.jpg

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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NC01ZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Circled in red is the hook attachment that worked for me.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/270422_Ram_1.jpg

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Monday, February 15th, 2021 AT 1:05 PM (Merged)

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