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1990 Toyota Camry

Tiny
RACERTY1
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 TOYOTA CAMRY
I am having three issues with my 1990 toyota camry with 150k miles on it. Has a Rebuilt 1991 camry I4 2.0 liter 3S-FE engine in it.

1. My master control unit for the windows and locks (drivers door) wont work the unlock at all, the passenger window works innermittently depending on the angle of the door being opened or not.

2. I need a vaccum hose routing diagram. Haynes repair manuels do not contain one for my cars model. I have one port on the rear of my EFI unit for a vaccum hose that I dont have a hose to put on it. (4 hoses 5 holes) and when I place my finger over it and plug it, the engine idles quieter and seems less shaky.

3. I have a bad smell emitting from my car. I figure exhaust leak but im not sure. The smell is of burnt oil, but there is no smoke coming from anywhere en-route to the exhaust or from the actual exhaust.

Any ideas or ways to check and solve any of these problems?
Thanks,
Tyler Stevens
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2007 AT 1:09 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
1. Could be the master control switch itself

2. 91 engine I only see 4-hoses
1-goes directly to the EGR
1-goes to the BVSV the other hose at the BVSV goes to charcoal canister.
2-going to the EGR vacuum modulator

3. Could be a valve cover gasket/front cover oil seal/loose oil filter etc.

If it runs better plugging it, then cap it. Come IM-240 time better find that vac hose
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2007 AT 2:21 AM
Tiny
RACERTY1
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If its the master switch why would it matter what angle the door is at? Could it be the wire harness running into the door, if that gets pinched in the frame could it severe wires causing that problem?
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2007 AT 2:40 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Maybe you're right Could be pinched and shorted to another wire in the harness causing the off/on deal at different angle.

If it was me I'll check the M/S this is where the power supply is. Have you ever look what's inside a M/S and how its wired
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2007 AT 3:41 PM
Tiny
RACERTY1
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Yea I took my m/s out and looked at it, nothing seems fried or anything. And all buttons are making contact with their switches. You think its probably the wires inside the door then? Know how to check them without completely disassembling the entire door panel?
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Wednesday, July 25th, 2007 AT 12:58 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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You have 9-wires going thru the R/Front door

Power Window wire;
1 blue: the power feed to the power window switch
2Red/Blue: down
3Green/White: up

Power Mirror;
4Lt Grn
5Lt Grn/Blk

Door Lock system;
6Lt blue/red
7blue/red
8blu/blk
9wht/blk

You need to check the blue wire on the power window switch for a short to ground or to another wire, also for an intermittent open, which probably what you got.

I hope you know how to use an ohmmeter to trace an open/grounded/shorted/cross circuits. When push comes to shove bring her in, you might end up doing more damages.

Good Luck
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Wednesday, July 25th, 2007 AT 3:48 AM
Tiny
RACERTY1
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Only problem is I am positive its not the Passenger door. Its something in the driver side. We checked all that already, even tried to change the window regulator and motor etc. Checked polarity on passenger switches. Everything checked out. Could it be a fuse or something thats blown or are there any secondary fuses I might be missing. I checked the actuall fuses that I could find. (Fuse box under hood, fuse box inside driver kickpanel, and single fuse in pass. Kick panel). What are the silver round things up inside the kickpanels a little bit and/or what do they go to?
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Saturday, July 28th, 2007 AT 12:38 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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How the circuit goes: Fuse-Circuit Breaker-Relay-Master Control Switch. If its power problem -the MCS w/n operate. Maybe your losing the ground.

The round things are relay-the black looking ones r breakers it has hole on top for resetting.
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Saturday, July 28th, 2007 AT 4:26 PM

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