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1995 Saturn SL2 New battery but won't crank

Tiny
LADYCSHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 SATURN SL2
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 140,000 MILES
We replaced the battery in the SL2 but it won't crank. When I turn ignition one position I get lights and dings but no 'fan' in the interior I also get a low 'HUM" that lasts about 3 seconds and stops on its on. When I advanced the key to start it NOTHING! No other sounds, no clicks, nothing.

So the only engiine sound I get is a motorized 'hum' when I turn the ignition.
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Sunday, June 6th, 2010 AT 11:42 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Let's start with this make sure your battery cable's are clean and tight. Now I want you to turn the key to the start postion and leave it there. Now get a test light and check every fuse in the inside fuse box and engine fuse box make sure that you have power to each side of every fuse. If any fuse only have power to one side or no power to any side let me know and which fuse it was. Some of the fuse's it's normal to have no power to any side of it testing it like that. Let me know what you find and we will go from there.
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Sunday, June 6th, 2010 AT 12:47 PM
Tiny
LADYCSHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi. I got a light and checked the engine fuses and the fuses of the internal panel which I located on the passenger side, 'kick panel' of the center front console. Every fuse, each side, got a light. I had to work at a couple of the because I have the cheapy autozone light and I think I kept losing my ground or didn't make good contact initially. Some of those posts are tiny.

What should I try next?
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Friday, June 11th, 2010 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
I emailed you a starter diagram to your personal email. Here's the next thing I want you to do make the car is in neautral ebrake on. Then ground your test light now go down to that switch under your clutch pedal while that's pressed and your key is in the start position you should have power to both those wire's to the switch. Let me know what you find.
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Friday, June 11th, 2010 AT 10:53 PM
Tiny
LADYCSHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I am going to get someone to double-check me but I followed the diagram to the clutch pedal switch on the bracket and could not get a light on either wire. I am not sure I am making good contact though, the wires are coated, one is yellow one is purple-ish blue. I checked my ground again by getting a light on one of my known good fuses and went back to the wires coming from that clutch plate module and no lights. I made sure the car was in neutral and depressed the clutch to point of contact.

This reminds me of a 'sympton' I was having before this broke. I didn't know it was a symptom at the time but looking back I think it was. There were a couple times when I would try to start the car and get nothing (other than the fuel pump motor noise) and I would reclutch it even harder and it would start right up. I think we are on to something here.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2010 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Well you have have someone else check it out for you then. Why don't you unplug the switch and test for power at the wire's terminal to the yellow wire to the switch with the key in the start position. That wire come's from your ignition switch. Let me know what you find.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2010 AT 12:47 PM
Tiny
LADYCSHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Ok, was able to test the switch unplugged and no light. Just for fun I put it in both sides and nothing and I put in the module under the pedal bracket to cover all the bases. No lights. I don't really know what I'm doing but I did check the ground before and after and in between checking each terminal and my ground was good. I did have the key on throughout the process. Got my dash lights and door ajar dings, etc.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2010 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
So you got no power to the yellow wire to the clutch switch with the key in the start position?If you didn't then we have no power coming from the ignition switch. Your going to have to get a 5.5mm thin nut driver to take the column cover's off there's 5 screw's holding it in place. When you get it loose it won't come off unless you remove the ignition cylinder. But I think there will be enough movement in it to access the ignition switch wire's on the right side of it. You should have power to the big red wire going into the switch when you turn the switch to the start position then the yellow wire should have power. Before you test the wire's to the switch check and make sure you have power to both side's of the ign3 fuse in the under hood fuse box. Let me know what you find.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2010 AT 10:23 PM

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