PCM pinout needed

Hey Joe, yes, I checked the whole wiring harness continuity going to both camshaft and crankshaft position sensor. I have pretty much exhausted everything online self-help YouTube all that, and this is one incident that nobody can give me an answer to. It just doesn't make sense they have a crank signal but no RPM signal, and then of course no spark, but I have power to the coil pack, and it is a brand-new coil pack. It's looking more and more like it's the probably going to be my PCM, but after talking with another couple of mechanics I have power to my injectors and it pulses when I turn it over, so they were saying if I didn't get that then it's probably PCM, but since I am getting a pulse in a signal, they think that my PCM is good. Only thing I can't do is check my floating ground that I have I can't get. I have a 3-wire set up for my coil pack with two grounds and it's a floating ground. Don't know how I can check it. Try to go online if anybody has any idea. Please help me ou.T thanks

On checking the 5-volt reference at the data link connector between 2 and 10 the thing jumps around from as low as 3.86 to 4.22 blinking every second, not a steady signal like I thought I would have. I'm wondering if I'm having a bad wiring harness, I recently replaced my PC M with my old one that was still good and had it reprogrammed successfully. Do you think there might be a problem with the network communication with the weird readings that I gave you up above? And if so, what do I need to check next to correct this freaking error? This truck has been down a little over six months because of this issue.

I also failed to tell you that when I put my scan tool on there, I get no codes, but I get a yellow light meaning there must be something going on.

The check engine light goes out whenever I crank it, but I get no RPM signal and as the other day I was doing some testing and now I get a crank signal at first and then the light comes back on after about 3 seconds.

I get 1.5 volts from the crank sensor when I tested at the base where the two wires go into the harness, but when I get to the PC M side, I don't get anything so I'm thinking it's the harness I've got two other crank sensors that are good. Also that I switched around with it and all three of them do the same thing.

The strange thing is when I check for continuity I get it to those two wires from the crank sensor this is a really interesting problem.

I am back probing it with it connected and turning the car over like I said I'm getting 1.5 at the beginning of the harness but I'm not getting anything at the PCM and that's what I was thinking my harness is messed up. The problem is it's hard to find this freaking harness. I haven't found any place here in Houston that I can get one unless I can find a manual transmission, possibly a Mazda Tribute or Ford Focus. Because both of them use the same engine but I've got that rare manual transmission that they hardly made a lot of on the 2.0 with the zetec engine I don't know what I'm going to do if I can't find one. The only place I found one was online and they wanted to charge me $400.00 for it and it was a used one, so I didn't know if it was going to be good or not that's a really expensive by with not a sure deal especially being used.

Okay Joe, so far, I have not been able to find the part number for that harness I will give you the VIN number though, it's going to be 1FMYU01B11KB82977. It's a 2001 Ford Escape 2.0 zetec engine manual transmission if that will help you. So, I did some more testing and found that I am getting 1.5 to 2.5 V for the crank going into the harness and at the PCM I am getting 0.735v, so I am losing signal through the harness. I guess that's why I'm getting the check engine light going out but I'm not getting the RPM signal because I'm not getting the full Voltage back to the PCM.

Well Joe, I did an extremely simulated rewire on the crank sensor. I actually took two of the same size wires that it calls for and put a stranded strip down ground around it and then put tinfoil around that and then sealed it with some rubberized electrician tape. I'm actually now getting fire to the coil. It hasn't caught yet but it's trying, at least I'm closer. So, yeah, it has been the wiring harness.

Well, since the original crank sensor was wrapped in a shielded ground inside the harness it was basically the two wires with the ground wrapped around it and then a foil tape type deal around that. So, I had to simulate that as close as possible spark plug still look like they're brand new which they were. The weird thing is, I keep getting the signal and it'll try to crank and then the next thing you know I lose the signal. I'm trying to figure out if my relays I may be bad, but I can't get it to catch I'm going to try to go through all the sensors and everything and make sure everything is good. Now that I'm getting fire, I just got to figure out the issue why I get a signal and then I don't and then I do.