Normal, DTC free amperage draw, engine running

Tiny
DESMOND53
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
There are no DTC's stored in the PCM's rom. There are no lights, alarms, or malfunctions indicated on the digital dash screen. Have installed a new battery and alternator. My question is: When the engine is running in park at normal idle speed, with all accessories in the off mode, engine in the closed loop mode, with no parasitic amperage draw above 80 mA when the engine is off, what value of amperage should I read with my clamp on DC amp meter at the battery negative terminal?
Tuesday, July 24th, 2018 AT 9:31 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
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I would say very minimal. Charging amps is not usually tested without a load, it is tested with a load and revved up to 2,000 rpm. Under load it should rear close to what is normally stamped into the alternator, like 55a meaning 55 amps.
All you are basically running is the computer modules, the ignition and some 5 volt sensors. There has to be a difference in free electrons or current will not flow, meaning something has to be on. I would say that the few voltages you would need might add up to.5 volt and maybe an amp or two.
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2018 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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With the engine running there should be no real draw on the battery, the alternator should be supplying any needed power in that instance as there is no load on the system. Just do not forget to put the clamp on so it reads the correct direction of flow. BTDT, put it on backwards and you get a negative voltage reading and what looks like a draw.
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2018 AT 11:35 AM
Tiny
DESMOND53
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Yes, have conducted various diagnostic tests and have not discovered any numerical values, per my request, and assigned factory specs, and my question has yet to be answered and my quest for the answer. I am searching for the DCA output when all systems are operating normally and correctly, and measured at the battery terminal. Simply a ball park figure would suffice just fine, thank you for your time, sir.
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2018 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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There is no way to know that as it depends entirely on what every component in use as the engine runs is drawing, the state of charge of the battery, condition of every operating component and their connections. If every part is perfect and all connections are good you are likely looking at around 10-15 amps being used by the ignition, fuel pump, evap system, and the PCM and assorted modules. However if the battery is fully charged you would not measure anything at the negative cable because it is not charging, the power would be coming off the alternator to the positive feed post on the fuse box. The battery at that point is used more as a capacitor to smooth any AC or voltage spikes.
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Tuesday, July 24th, 2018 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
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I think it would be much lower than 10-15 amps, closer to 1-3 amps if you ask me.
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Wednesday, July 25th, 2018 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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I think the fuel pump alone will pull 4-6 amps. Ignition will draw another 2-3 amps. Then all the luxury modules add up as well. That is why it is a hard number to pin down as you could put two "identical" cars side by side and test and they would not match. Just the nature of all the electronics used on them.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 12:49 AM
Tiny
DESMOND53
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Greetings Steve, Many thanks for all of your combined experience and valuable info you freely passed on to me. Obviously, I do not have access to a break out box where I could monitor the amperage draw of each individual circuit and component, especially those like the fuel pump that draw 5-7 amps. I realize the amount of amps measured on the positive battery wire is the summation of all devices powered while the auto is parked and running at idle with all accessories in the off mode. You would think that the factory would have published an established base line of consumed current measured when the car is brand new, operating under the mode mentioned. As stated in my original question, the Battery and Alternator are brand new; plus the car has been garage kept, totally enclosed in a HVAC environment; and relatively well maintained. Connectors and wiring termination points have been inspected and tested for corrosion from moisture, complete with voltage drop tests made to verify the results. No electrical problems have occurred since the original owner purchased the Lincoln brand new in 2003, the car has never been abused; and most of the accumulated mileage are highway miles. I will agree with your assessment that the electrical/electronic components should draw no more than 10 amps, maybe a bit more, but not more than 13. I have been searching for a ball park figure of amperage draw and I realize the answer is subjective to numerous operational variables. As you mentioned, the fuel pump draws at least 5 amps, plus other components like the digital dash info center, the new alternator, the PCM; and the alternator field windings/internal voltage regulator are the main power consuming devices under the parked/idle mode. When I find nameplate data tags on new components such as those mentioned, I can refine the estimated, or calculated amperage draw number anticipated. For example, on the new alternator, the PCM feeds a PWM signal of 400 Hz at a continuous 2 amp rating into the voltage regulator within. Have read the nameplate data on a new fuel pump, ect, although the amperage value printed are max amp consumption values. I can easily construct a fuse extension module that allows easy access with my DVOM to measure individual circuits amperage draw; and eliminate[disconnect] components I do not wish to measure that may be wired in parallel with the component in question. Some electronic modules, though not operating during my tests, draw small amounts of current in their standby, quiescent mode. As you mentioned, all of these factors have to evaluated under various testing modes in an attempt to acquire an 'average' consumption level. You, sir, are the only mechanic who responded to me after numerous inquiries. It appears no one, except for you Steve, can even begin to fathom an answer to my question, I considered my question to be quiet simple as I assumed someone with IATN or similar[ identifix] access would have a base line value stored within their vast database. You have been most helpful Steve; and I sincerely appreciate your input and the time it takes to sit down and answer my question[s]. Please feel free to add any additional info or insight to the question, if time permits; and once again, Thank you, sir! Marshall
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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If you want to measure the draw in the circuits it is not hard. You need a meter that reads millivolts accurately. Now go to www. Powerprobe. Com/fuse-voltage-drop-charts/ and download the fuse charts they have.
Those show the amp draw through each fuse type based on the voltage drop across the fuse. It is a real handy method of measuring current draw and you do not need to pull fuses or break the circuit, which is great on vehicles that will wake up other modules if the power is disturbed.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 7:26 AM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
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What exact problem with this car are you trying to figure out? Is this a real problem you are trying to track down or just asking a hypothetical question?
It's like asking how many stars are in the sky. Millions, then someone says but planets are not stars, now how many and so on and so on. The answer could go on forever unless the reason behind is known. Such as, I am painting a picture and need to know how many stars to paint. Well than, I suppose the answer might be closer to 100 that will fit on that canvas.
I can go outside right now with a clamp-on ammeter right now and tell you the amp draw at idle, in park of my 2009 Chvrolet. But why would I want to know that?
I know from checking the amp draw on my 1972 Chevelle cause I kept blowing a fuse and wanted to know what was blowing it and I checked at total amp draw on this 10 amp fuse which I had setup to protect the entire car and it was only drawing 3 amps, thus it did have a mechanical fuel pump, no computer and was only powering the distributor, 3 gauges and the alternator but I never count that because the amperage coming out and back in in my mind cancel each other out. Anyhow, I suppose if you start adding electric fuel pumps, PCM's, etc then it appears my calculation at first may have been a bit low.
Are you having a problem with the battery going dead? Is that what this is about?
I tried to lookup a 2003 Lincoln Continental but there was none so I searched Wikipedia and it says "After several years of declining sales, Lincoln announced that 2002 would be last year for the Continental." Although it did make a comeback in 2017.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 10:52 AM
Tiny
DESMOND53
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Greetings PRP,
Thank you for your response to my question. I have been looking for a baseline figure[ number] of the amperage consumed in the test mode described. There are no alarms indicated of any kind on the communication screen, no lights, warnings or DTC's stored in rom. Experiencing no electrical/electronic problems with engine components, simply seeking out a number from someone who may have stored this figure in the back of their mind while diagnosing a Lincoln DC charging system. Your information was incorrect regarding the factory announcement of discontinuing the Lincoln after 2002. Town Cars were manufactured and sold in the year 2003; and were not discontinued as you may have read. I have a 2007 Lincoln in my driveway at the moment. Thanks for your help and the questions you posed.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
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It said the continental, not a town car.
You are trying to be too technical.
If there is no problem with the vehicle then this is a hypothetical question and just about any answer could be close.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 1:24 PM

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