2001 Nissan Maxima Repair Question
2001 Nissan Maxima Check engine error code p0420
2001 Nissan Maxima 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 150000 miles
Hi, I brought my car for diagnostic after the check engine pop up in my dashboard. The technician told me that I have to replace the three way catalyst converter and the downstream 02 sensor. I am wanted to get the part from the internet but I am not sure how this thingy really look like and the type of 02 sensor and which bank that I am going to replace it. I want to save money by ordering the parts from the internet and just have the muffler shop replace it. Could anyone can give me the link where I can order this stuffs? Any help are very much appreciated.
Hello and thanks for the donation!
I found the parts you need at AutoZone.com at a reasonable price. You may wish to search at other sites such as eBay.com , O'reillyAutoParts.com or AdvanceAutoParts.com to compare more prices. Below are some pictures and details of the two parts you mentioned, information below was taken from the AutoZone.com website store.
17,236 answers provided
Hi, Is this the right catalytic converter that they said? The said that it is the 3 way catalyst converter, howmany coventer do I have? Is it the front converter that I have to replace? I have the code p0420 and they said that I have to replace the three way catalyst converter.
Sorry... I just wanted to be sure.
Sorry about that, that was the rear converter. The 3-way converter is the front converter. The cheapest I can find is linked below. Sorry about the confusion..
17,236 answers provided
Thanks... I tried to contact the seller regarding the warranty but he did not reply yte. Is this item the same as this one from powertrain.com? http://www2.partstrain.com/store/details/Nissan/Maxima/Catco/Catalytic_Converter/2001/GXE/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/cat4014.html
It is more money but at least I have 5 year warranty and emission warranty. What do you think about this item or decission? Is it wise to go to this site instead of going to the ebay seller that did not specify the warranty.
The Tuffy ask for 540 for this part and instalaltion cost....
The code will be back if you get an aftermarket cat converter. If you can deal with the Check engine light then don't bother getting one. It is best to get one from the dealer. It cost a lot more, but it is a for sure thing.
What is the different between the OE replacement with the dealer provided part? So, your advise is to bring my car to the dealer to replace the pre cat? Is after market parts are bad then? If I recall few years back the dealer used Bosch sensor in my car and it is aftermarket.
Do I have to reprogram my ECU when I replaced the failed sensor and fornt catalytic converter? This is because I am planning to order the parts and then have somebody to install it, could anyone can give me a clue regarding the right process? I don't want to be fooled again by the Nissan dealear who insisted before when I had problem with my car that won't idle but when I posted my problem here you guys advised to replaced the air sensor and might be the ECU, but I was so dumb and let the Nissan dealer replaced the idle valve/sensor and ECU, and the problem still won't idle when I press the gas pedal while in park, it just turn off. I called them that time (3 days after they fixed it) and they ask me to brought the car back to be check-up and then 3 hours of waiting they told me that I need to replaced the air sensor....which is an additional cost. I told them before they fix my car at first place that it might be the air sensor because I already got an idea at that time from here before I brought my car to the delear but they insisted that it is the idle valve and ecu.
Since then I did not trust that much and now I just need my car to pass the emission next month and thats why I want the check engine to be fix by repalcing the front cat and the failing sensor.
Please let me know if I make a good decission by using the after market replacement front catalytic converter for my nissan maxima 2001.
The know the old saying "you pay for what you get", well this is no different. When you get an aftermarket cat. converter the quality is not the same as the dealer cat. converter. This is why there is such a big price difference. Any shop can install an OE cat. converter from the dealer. You don't have the reprogram anything when you get a cat converter replaced unless there is Technicial Service Bulletin on it. Any reputable shop can find that out by looking it up in their service information. Idle Air COntrol valves go bad on Nissans all the time. The reason they have to relearned it was because the idle air had to be recalculated. A good shop with a good scanner could have done that. Same thing when replaceing the MAF(Mass Air Flow) Sensor. HTH.
[quote="stevew84"]The know the old saying "you pay for what you get", well this is no different. When you get an aftermarket cat. converter the quality is not the same as the dealer cat. converter. This is why there is such a big price difference. Any shop can install an OE cat. converter from the dealer. You don't have the reprogram anything when you get a cat converter replaced unless there is Technicial Service Bulletin on it. Any reputable shop can find that out by looking it up in their service information. Idle Air COntrol valves go bad on Nissans all the time. The reason they have to relearned it was because the idle air had to be recalculated. A good shop with a good scanner could have done that. Same thing when replaceing the MAF(Mass Air Flow) Sensor. HTH.[/quote
Thank you guys... I just want to pass the emission next month and keep the car for a year or two till the other car of mine will be paid off, then get another less problematic car. I maintain my car, change oil, tune up and rotate and aligned the car in time schedule. I bought this car brand new and the first check engine I had was when my car reach 2k miles and Midcity nissan in Chicago reprogram the ecu to erase it, from there I always get check engine twice a year. Yes I agree that the quality is good if you brought the parts from the dealer but they won't give you good warranty... for example my repalcement ECU that I got from the dealer... they only cover 12,000 miles which is the same or less than the ECU warranty from other source online with less money.
I religiously brought my car to the delear for routine maintenance until I reach 110k when I brought it for change oil and suddenly they told me that they have check and my car need a new front brake, the quote was $500 for change oil and front brakes.... Yes they do 21 points check inspection but for $650 dollars for brakes is expensive. I told them to do just the change oil and I brought my car to Menieke for there high end brake for less than the fraction of dealer cost... Some dealer will riff off the innocent customer.
I am just posting it here and asked you guys regarding my cat problem because I have no knowledge about it and wanted to have good advise.
If I will just bring my car now to any shop or autozone and have it delete the code, do think I will pass the emission? My car idle properly or I can't find any problem with it except the annoying "check engine lighth. I never have problem driving it and it really sound very fine.
What do you think?
The problem with just clearing the light is that it will be back. If you put a new cat on the vehicle I am not sure how long the light will be off. I am not sure how often your state does emmissions. But they will be looking at not just if your check engine light is on, but also if your monitors have set. HTH.
Thank you- I did changed my cat and 02 sensor and so far for a week of driving the MIL/check engine light shut off. I also did the emission test and it pass.
If I athourized Tuffy auto repair shop to change my cat and 02 sensor, it will cost me $900 but with thorough research for less expensive way and this website, I only spent $400 plus in total.
This is my second time I used this website and the only thing I can see is "Thank you".