2004 Nissan 350Z Repair Question
2004 Nissan 350Z oil consumption
2004.5 350z with 100,00 miles that burns at lot of oil and is progressively getting worse (one qt synthetic per 150 to 200 miles + -). Although it gets great gas milage on the road of 29 to 30 mpg. Engine seems to run perfect and has smooth sounding lope although I notice that there is slight valve pinging when accelerating but only for a second or two at a certian low rpm while accelerating to higher rpm and I think only when pushing it.
Smokes when start up and if hold foot
on brake and rev up it produces smoke like crazy .
When just driving around does not seem to produce smoke but when slowing down to take corner or giving it some gas after slowing down in traffic produces some smoke.
Started skipping the some time ago, bought engine analyser, noted cyl 4 misfire, pulled plug, covered in oil and worn out gap, replaced. Again recently, cyl 4 and cyl 3 reading misfiring, pulled both plugs, 4 again covered in oil but 3 just worn out not wet at all.
I have heard bad things about some of these engines (mine is VQ35DE stock) valve stem wear. Nissan is mum on this subject although issue TB on '05 and '06 MT for block replacement. I am out of warrenty but expected engine to last more that 100,000.
Dealer said to just buy used engine with 20,000 miles for $4000 installed and don't try fix engine cause other so called leaks might occur in other areas of engine not fixed and best to get used engine. New engines installed from dealer $11,000.
Suppose need compression and then flow down test as per some of your responses to others.
What is my problem. Should I go through all that or just get used engine.
$11,000 for an engine is ridiculous.I would go with a used engine , before I shelled out that kind of money on something that may do it again.I have also found that if you try to pull the engine and go through it, you will spend far more than you think, even if you budget it all out
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Would and electronic compression test be worth doing, meaning, what if it indicated that only #4cyl had a compression problem.
or what if I pull all the all plugs and only the #4cyl is bad, meaning has oil on plug where as other are dry, would that be indication that just that #4cyl is bad, be it rings or valves and if so, what if I just "fix" that for a more realistic price that $4,000 for used engine.
Or would it still be as you said, don't open a can of worms, best just to spent money on used engine.
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Depends on what is wrong with it and what machining it would require.If anything is wrong with the cylinder and you try to hone it or have it done it will mopst likely do the same thing again due to the taper in th ecylinder from wear.
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