1995 2.5L duratec intermittent start

Tiny
NEEDYHEBE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 MERCURY MYSTIQUE
1995 Mercury 2.5L duratec, auto, 86000 miles. Car quit running and I found that the front of car thorttle rod on the intake was gone, have no idea how long. They don't make the rod anymore so I made one, seems to work great. In repairing this I had to remove the phellum and found extreme carbon built up in the intake manifold. Removed intake and cleaned, replaced caskets for intake and phellum, replaced plug wires, plugs, gapped to.54 per manual, checked spark and getting a yellow to blue spark, but on DSI system I understand that this is OK. Had pressure regulator value checked at dealership and told that it is good, holds 25psi. Fuel pressure is 40 PSI. Had Coil Pack tested and told that it is also good, also changed PCV valve. After doing all this work I finally got the car started, had to pull the plugs once and clean due to fouling, from cleaning intake. Let warm up and took for a 18 mile test drive, ran the best that I can ever remember, plenty of power, blew out all the carb cleaner I had used etc. I also put some fuel injector cleaner in the gas, almost full tank. Got home, thinking it is fixed, turned off car, attempted restart and had some trouble but did restart, turned off tried again, no run. Tried and tried and gave up. Got up next day went out and fired right up. Shut off wouldn't restart, let sit 20 minutes, started right up, shut off, no restart, let sit 30 minutes started right up, shut off no run. I am confused, not real familar with fuel injection, just learning it, but I used to know the old cars real well. I'm 53years old. Justed started last couple of years to work on cars again. Current code is 543, fuel pump. I dont' believe it is the fuel pump. Turn key to on position and the pump comes on for about 2 sec, have 40psi of pressure, haven't changed fuel filter as I would think if clogged I wouldn't have 40 psi of pressure, nor would it run. I was told to try unplugging the MAF and try to start, but that didn't change anything. I think that all I've done. I am confused and lost, Please help.
Sunday, November 18th, 2007 AT 7:16 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
This is a power to pump B= problem, check the relay, this is the easy fix. I will email more info so U will be able to read it.
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Sunday, November 18th, 2007 AT 7:46 AM
Tiny
NEEDYHEBE
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Traded R7 horn relay to R8 fuel pump relay, no change. Horn works fine on either relays. I've Emailed Mike, but wasn't sure if this correct procedure. I'm haveing trouble reading the GIF files that were sent to me, has the quality isn't very good.
The manual refers to a break out box, and basicly says take it to the dealer. I simply can't afford to do that. Any other sugestions? I am now getting codes 118, 543, and 542. Also have notice that the electric fan seems to keep running and won't shut off. I thought it only came on either in test or if the motor was getting hot. Did get the GIF files to be readable.
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Sunday, November 18th, 2007 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
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Replace break out box with a DVOM. And check volts or OHM as specified.
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Sunday, November 18th, 2007 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
NEEDYHEBE
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  • 6 POSTS
I drove the vec from Dayton to Cinn, Ohio, about 70miles yesterday, when I got to Cinn I stopped to make a turn and it died on me with no start. Pushed it off the road, waited 20minutes started right up. Drove to another stop and shut it off, restarted after about 30 minutes. Then drove back to Dayton, no problems along the way, interstate, as well as stop and go. Check engine light on, pulled codes upon arrival home. Had 543, 118, 177, 332, 542, 543, 118, 157, and then of course a repeat. I then reset all codes and reran KOEO test, pulled 111. Drove car again around 10 miles or so, no light, no bad codes, starts. I wonder if since it was so dirty that it is simply takeing time for the crap to work it's way through the system. It seems to get better each time I drive it. I was also wondering about the ECT sensor, it would seem to cause these types of codes if bad. I think the engine is/was sending to rich a fuel mixture, and that is why is drives well at 65 to 70 mile an hr, but would stall and not restart at idle, then restart after sitting a while. I am hoping that it has fixed itself, will drive a while more and cross my fingers. LOL Could the ECT cause this?
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Tuesday, November 20th, 2007 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
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Hey if you have no codes, cross the fingers.
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Tuesday, November 20th, 2007 AT 2:37 PM

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