1986 Jeep CJ7

Hi Ozzie o cj7. Welcome to the forum. Use a test light to test for voltage to the coil during cranking and again with just the ignition switch turned to "run". If it is missing in "run", look for a second positive wire that was left off or an open ignition resistor. Chrysler used to bypass the resistor with a second terminal on the ignition switch. GM did it with a tap on the starter solenoid. Not sure how AMC did it, but that was done to get the coil voltage back up when the battery voltage is drawn down during cranking.

caradiodoc

See my profile...I answer for free, member like you...donate to the cause, if you want! Mr. Jeep uses a "Stock Coil" it says "use with external resistor only" Although Mr. Jeep does not have a "Ceramic Resistor" like you are used to seeing on other rigs. He uses a "RESISTANCE WIRE" between the coil and "ON" position on your Key operated ignition switch. (still considered a "External Resistor") If your new coil has a "INTERNAL RESISTOR" you probably do not have enough voltage to run your rig. Initial Starting delivers FULL 12 Volts to the coil via "I" terminal on your SOLENOID (thus trying to start) HOWEVER when you release the key---"I" dies....and since "I" overrides COIL RESISTANCE ONLY TEMPORARILY while crankingyour "DOUBLE" resistance cannot take over! (Mega Voltage drop!) GET COIL WITHOUT "INTERNAL RESISTOR" (for use with "EXTERNAL RESISTOR")---or rewire from ignition to new coil--with no resistor wire Waddu Think? I CAN HELP YOU WITH ALMOST ANY CJ PROBLEM...JUST KEEP REPLYING BELOW! The Medic "I" is the little red connector--Front Right......"S" is front left.