Mechanics

NOT STARTING

2000 Infiniti I30

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Infiniti I30 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 101, 00 miles

Starter clicks when turn key but car won't turn over. Had battery tested at auto store as well as the starter. Also I have replaced the ignition switch. Have had The MAF sensor and two rear bank coils replaced in the last few years. I also replaced the spark plugs and am considering replacing all the coils as I was told I would ventually have to do. I have tried to get the starter going by jumping the two leads on the solenoid but no luck. I had to remove the starter to have it bench tested, and when I put it back in and turn the key I got a slight crank but not enough to start it. Tried it a second time same thing but after that all I got was a click from the starter.
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Dleo14
June 22, 2009.



If you used something to jump from the big battery cable lug on the solenoid over to the small lead and it didn't turn the engine over you have three things to look for.

The starter is bad
the battery is bad
you have a high resistance problem with the battery cables (could be positive or ground)

check the cable terminals where they attach to the battery.
You want to make sure all of that hard green stuff is scrapped away and you are down to nice clean metal.

Buddycraigg
Jun 22, 2009.
SENT TO MY EMAIL BY THE OP.

Hi, Thanks for the suggestions. I took the starter out two separate times and hadn it bench tested at two different auto zone stores and both times it passed. In addition right after the car would not start I noticed heavy build up around the battery terminals. I took the battery off and cleaned it thoroughly. I the took the battery and had it checked at autozone. They charged it some more but said the battery was fine. I tried swithcing the keys to see if the chip might not be functioning properly inone of them, but no luck. Could the starter be fine on the bench test and not on the car? Since I removed the starter on two separate occasions each time I put it back and turned the key I got a slight crank for a few times then no more, only a click. I also tried to jump start the car and got nowhere. I will check again and let you know what I happens. Thanks Dion

Buddycraigg
Jun 22, 2009.
Did you at any time use a jumper wire to go from the big stud that the battery cable goes to on the solenoid over to the small connector that energizes the solenoid?

If so, what were the results?

I'm also find this statement odd,
" Since I removed the starter on two separate occasions each time I put it back and turned the key I got a slight crank for a few times then no more, only a click" it would be one hell of a leap, but i'm wondering if the engine is hyrdo locked, or binding against the valves.

Forget I said that.

What happens if you jump the terminals on the solenoid?

Buddycraigg
Jun 22, 2009.
I removed the battery terminals again, cleaned them thoroughly and jumped the big lug with the small wire on the solenoid and all I get is a click form the solenoid. When turning the key I got a click on the first try then nothing after that. Shouldn't the car have turned over when jumping the starter? Not sure what else to try. Please advise.

Tiny
Dleo14
Jun 23, 2009.
Yes, the engine should have turned over when you jumped the two leads on the solenoid.

Tell me some history on the car.
Have you had it long?
Was it driving ok and you parked it and then it wouldn't start?

Right now we are back to the first 3 options
the starter is bad
the battery is bad
you have a high resistance problem with the battery cables (could be positive or ground)
but.
I'm also adding mechanical resistance at this time.

On the front of the engine, in the center of the harmonic balancer is a large bolt, put a socket and fairly large ratchet on it. You should be able to turn the engine over by hand.
You can't do it very quickly, but you should be able to do it.
I want you to turn the harmonic balancer all the way around 2 times.

If you can not get the engine to turn one way, try turning it the other way, but expect it to stop at some point if this is the case.

Buddycraigg
Jun 23, 2009.
Had the car since 38K mi. Car has been very reliable however at about 80-85K mi we had 2 bad coils which were replaced by our mechanic. He told me that eventually the others would. The SEL had come on. The light stayed off for some time then came back after several months. The MAF sensor was replaced. It ran well. About six months ago I changed the alternator. In the meantime the sel had been on but the mechanic said it was ok to drive the car. A few months ago it started running a little rough then once warmed up it fine. Lately I had been having trouble start it on the first shot but it would start. Last week it just would, and would not start at all. Oil changes are always done on time howver I was holding off on the coils because of the expense. I was going to replace them and then the car died.

Tiny
Dleo14
Jun 23, 2009.
Thanks for the history.
Let me know what happens when you try to turn the engine over by hand.

Buddycraigg
Jun 23, 2009.
Just wanted to let you know that it turned out to be a weak starter. Even though I had it tested at two different Auto Zone stores and was told it was fine, it was not. The starter needed to be tested under stress conditions which auto zone does not do. That is where I went wrong. The old addage of " you get what you pay for" definitely applies here in the case of Auto Zone. Anyone reading this post take note DO NOT PUT ANY FAITH IN AUTOZONE. This is a major disservice to its customers. Don't buy any of their parts either because they DO NOT LAST. To me Auto Zone is the Home Depot of Auto parts stores.

Tiny
Dleo14
Jun 25, 2009.
Thanks for letting us know the out come.

Buddycraigg
Jun 25, 2009.