Mechanics

RIGHT BANK OF CYLINDERS NOT WORKING

1998 Honda Passport

Engine Performance problem
1998 Honda Passport 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 160000 miles

Hi, I have a 98 3.2L Passport that runs on 2, 4, 6, cylinders only. 1, 3, 5, are dead. The compression is 90-100 psi on all 6 cylinders. The fuel injectors are pulsing (with a stethescope you can hear the clicking). The plugs are not wet when you remove them but they are black. The plugs and coils have been swapped from side to side. The problem does not swap. The coils-plugs will fire when tested, removed with a ground wire attached and a plug stuck in it. So we have fuel, fire and compression why does it not run? The trouble codes are the general missfire and O2 bank one position one not regeresting. The cat on the right side stays cool. I bought this car as-is not running and found that the timing chain tensioner pully broke its bolt. I replaced it and and have rechecked the timing belt placement 4 times. Please help if you can.
Thanks
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Crandab
August 2, 2010.




First of all thank you so much for your donation. Minimum compression for your engine is 145psi so 90-100psi is pretty low. Are you sure you have everything all timed right?Are sure none of the valve's smacked the piston's?It could be your lack of compression causing the cylinders not to fire.

Saturntech9
Aug 2, 2010.
I forgot to tell you that it is backfiring through the intake when ever it is off of idle. I'm sure that it is a non interference engine so I don't think the valves were hit. All of the timing marks line up so I'm pretty sure the timing is right.

Tiny
Crandab
Aug 2, 2010.
Well something is causing your compression to be way below minimum specs and to have all of them low make's me think timing that's what they all have in common.

Saturntech9
Aug 2, 2010.
I'm sorry I gave you the wrong info. I was checking the compression with the engine running. Realizing my error I unpluged the coils on 2, 4, and 6, since they were the ones working and then I cranked the engine over to check the compression on #1 and when I did the engine tried to start with just 3 and 5 hooked up, so I reinstalled #1 and tried to start it with only 1, 3 and 5 hooked up and it started. For about 5 minutes it would run on 1, 3 and 5 but not just on 2, 4 and 6. I then unpluged all 6 coils and checked the compression the right way and they are all at 150. I also hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it is reading 36 and the book says it sould be 42-55psi. I then changed out the fuel filter but it didn't make a difference. Now if I only have 1, 3 and 5 pluged in it will start but immediately die but will start if 2, 4 and 6 are pluged in. I have a couple of ideas, PCM? Fuel pump or pressure regulator? Something else, do you know if the fuel pressure is sapose to bleed off in 5 seconds after you turn the engine off? Mine is.

Tiny
Crandab
Aug 2, 2010.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1998_honda_passport_fuel_pressure_test_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1998_honda_passport_fuel_pressure_test_part2_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/416332_1998_honda_passport_fuel_pressure_test_part3_1.jpg


Very strange the way 1 3 5 wasn't running then it was then it wasn't.Let's go with the fuel pressure it's on the low side and it shouldn't bleed down all the way in 5 sec's.So follow the trouble tree i posted i know you don't have a scan tool that can run the fuel pump so do the best you can with it.

Saturntech9
Aug 3, 2010.
I found that the fuel pump had a leaking hose in it so I replaced the hose and now the fuel pressure is right but the car is running exactly the same. I also went to the wrecking yard and got a computer but that didn't work either. I can sometimes get it to switch banks and run on one side to the other but never on both sides. The way I have done it is I unplug the coils on the side that is currently running and then try to start it. It wont start right away but after several attemps of it starting for a couple of seconds then dying it will stumble to life. Then I turn off the ignition and it swaps back to the left side. I have visually looked at the connectors on the computer to see if anything looks afoul but it looks good. What do you think?

Tiny
Crandab
Aug 5, 2010.
I talked to the previous owner and he stated that it was running just fine untill the bolt on the timing belt tensioner broke. He stated that sometimes it would not start right off and would run the battery down sometimes. That could of been the leak in the fuel pump that I fixed. So what I'm dealing with is it wants to run on the drivers side bank only unless I unplug them and make it run on the pass. Side. When I get it running on the pass. Side and then plug in the coils on the drivers side it contiues to only run on the pass. Side but when I turn the key off and restart it, it runs on the drivers side only. Go figure?

Tiny
Crandab
Aug 5, 2010.
That's some crazy stuff going on there. Let's do this get the one started that always run's and see if the other has any spark while the good side is running. Try not to shock yourself.
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Saturntech9
Aug 5, 2010.
I have done that and they are throwing what appears to be a good spark. I have also pulled out the injectors on the pass. Side out of the head, but still attached to the rail and started it and they were spraying. Do you think any damage could of been done to the valves or cams when the timing belt tensioner broke? That doesn't make any sense to me, it doesn't sound like a mechanical problem but more like a wiring issue. I rented a code scanner from Oreilys but it only reads the codes, if I was to take it to a dealership would they be able to get more info from the car than I can?

Tiny
Crandab
Aug 6, 2010.
As far as just reading engine code's the dealer isn't going to get any different code's in the engine computer that you didn't. They can pull more data stream information and read other computer's you can't. So when the other side was running you had spark and fuel to the other side that wasn't running. So were good there all we have left is compression and timing. You said it wasn't a interference engine are you sure about that?You said you had 150psi on all cylinder's which is within spec.I have seen good compression and bent valve's just enough to cause running issue's. Are we sure the timing is ok?It's really crazy how just one side will run at a time.

Saturntech9
Aug 6, 2010.

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