Mechanics

TWO PART BRAKES AND IDLE.

Honda Accord

I have a 1991 Honda Accord LX 5 spd. 237,000 mlg. My first problem Is a rough/erratic idle, it's fine while it warms up if it's cold. But after a minute or two without touching the gas, the engine surges to 1,600RPM and back to 900 RPM. Over and over and over again, all the time. It is not noticeable while driving unless it is in first gear with you foot off of the gas. Checked for intake and exhaust leaks etc. What to do? Second my chiltons manual says my brake rotors should come off by removing the caliper and two simple screws. Not so. I had the tranny and axles replaced awhile ago they may have swapped some replcement crap in form their yard. I've removed the axle nut and the caliper how do I get this rotor off? Fyi there aren't any screws on the front of the rotors
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Clayton10
April 15, 2006.



The eratic idle is caused by either the idle air controller or a sticking EGR valve.

All you need is flat head screwdriver, socket set, 8" C clamp, impact driver with phillips bit.

Put car up in air. Take wheel off. Take 2 bolts out that hold caliper on. Use screwdriver to pry caliper off. Sit aside. Pull brake shoes off caliper mount. 2 17mm bolts on back side holdin caliper mount on, take those out. If your car still has, or does have 2 phillips head screws holdin rotor on than those have to come out and sometimes there a bitch. Penetrating fluid first, than id heat them up just with a simple propane torch will do. When there hot, whack where your wheel mates with the rotor on top of those screws to loosen there grip some. Use impact driver to take them out, screwdriver may work. Once you get rotor off clean(new rotor) real good with brakeclean, stick it on. Put caliper mount back on. Place new brake shoes in holders. Use a C clamp to depress brake caliper piston (some hondas have what looks like a big flat headed screw for a piston, if yours does than all you have to do is turn it cloclwise and it winds itself in). Be careful not to damage rubber seal around piston and that it seats back in place properly. Sit caliper back over shoes and mount. Grease your sliders(caliper bolts) with white lithium grease I recommend and stick them back in and there one side is done. Never overtighten bolts. Very snug but not with all your might. When you get new front brakes on your pedal might feel funny(not much there) for first day or so. Start car up when done and keep pumpin pedal to work the slack out. No need for bleeding or nothin as well to let you know.

Good luck

Tiny
Losone
Apr 15, 2006.
Engine surging can be caused by the low level of antifreeze or air in the system. There are two bleeders on the system. Make sure the fluid is ok and then open the bleeders to see if there is any air in the system. Next if that doesn't take care of it you can look at the intake maniforld. I don't know how you ensured that there wasn't any leak but that is a freaky one. There is a smoke test that can easily and very cheaply check the manifold and gasket. I suspect the intake. The air intake sensor, it has another name and is located opposite the throttle on the throttle body can stick and cause the surging. That sensor is not replaceable except by replacing the entire throttle body.

Bruce Hunt
Apr 15, 2006.