Engine won't start after replace

Ok so do you still have spark? If so have you sprayed throttle body cleaner in the intake to see it is will start then? Let me know what you find.

I do have a spark, I cleaned everything except the throttle body when I had it apart. I did notice the fule injectors were bent and the filters messed up after I over-torqued the injector mounting bolts. I will clean the throttle body and let you know.

Thanks for replying.

I actually removed the throttle body and exchanged it with one that I cleaned from a salvage yard. I also cleaned and replaced the fuel injectors. The car turns over, but will not start. I hear a popping sound in the exhaust. The plugs are in the correct firing order. Is it possible for the vehicle to slip timing? I also noticed the spark plugs were wet. Could this hinder the starting of the engine?

It sounds like something isn't in line. Either the timing belt tensioner wasn't all the way tensioned or the distributor is out or? I would check my timing marks first now that it is popping.

I checked the distributor and it does rotate while cranking. I will check the timing marks. I just put it back together and really hate to go through that process again. I will let you know.

Thanks...

If you check out the pic I included you should only have to pull the upper cover and then put on TDC and see if the timing mark lines up and the cam marks line up and distributor is pointed to number one. Make sure you are on the compression stroke.

Thanks,
I will check it and let you know.

Ok great.

I checked the TDC marking on the cam. They correct on the compression stroke with the distributor firing at #1 cylinder. The markings on pulley, balance shaft and oil pump are correct. Any other suggestions? Thanks

Ok have you checked for spark? If not please do, just simply unplug a spark plug wire from the plug and put a screwdriver in the end and put it near metal (like the valve cover) and crank it and see if there is spark also if there is spark what color is it. Have you checked to see if any wires got pinched during the previous repair. Get back to me.

I have a white spark... I will check to see if there are any wires or lines pinched...

Recheck the ground connection at the thermostat housing. Quite often it is forgotten to be securely tightened and that would cause non starting.

Thanks, I will recheck and let you know.

Great do that and we will take it from there.

I checked the ground wire to the thermostat housing and it is secure. I also changed the spark plug wires, distributor and button. I tried to start it and it sounded better attempting to crank except I am hearing a and feeling a strong 'chirp' sound as the car turns over. The lights go dim with the 'chirping' sound. I am still thinking it may be my timing. Would you suggest starting from scratch and actually visualize the timing?

Thanks

I still think that the distributor is out. I would recheck the timing alignment and then make sure you are on compression strock with both valves closed in cylinder 1 and then make sure the distributor isn't 180 degrees out, or that the plug wires are in the right order. Here is pic of the firing order and the distributor rotation. Check this first before going in to deep ok. Let me know what you find.

I rotated the plugs to the correct firing order. The vehicle started but runs like it did before...missing and boggs down with acceleration of the gas pedal. The engine light is also on while the car is running.

Ok great it runs again that is a step in the right direction. Now lets check the timing ok. First pull the rubber plug on the top of the bellhousing on the back side of the engine. Now remove the kick panel on the passenger side. Now you will find a two wire terminal with one orange wire with a red stripe and one wire that is green with white stripe. Make a jumper wire or use a paper clip and jump the term (see pic below). Now start it and check the timing (refer to second pic below). Let me know how it goes.

I jumped the above mention jumper, started the car and checked the white TDC line. The line stays mostly in the middle and bounced a little before or after the pointer on the block. It is running but still missing. The engine light blinks slow then rapidly.
I have three codes:
41 which deals with my O2 heater sensor heat ???, 16: fuel injectors, all work fine except the #2 cylinder, same problem after replacing the injector.
7: TPS. I am puzzled as to why the these worked prior and not now...

The sparks from the plugs are blue.
Thanks...

Ok if you would ohm the injector and then ohm the spark plug wire. Get back to me with the ohms on both and include the length of the wire with ohms on it. We will get this it just may a take a few.

Will do...
Thanks...

Ok get back to me with what you find and we will take it from there.

I am not sure how to read the voltmeter. However, the readings from each injector is 01.9 and 0.30, the ohms on reading on the O2 sensor was -1 and the same on the IAC valve

Ok injectors should ohm out at 1.5 to 2.5. You don't ohm the oxygen sensor. Now do you have power going to the injector? Did you get the timing set per instructions?

The fuel injectors ohm out at 02.5. The #2 injector is not getting any power. I worked when I connected it to another plug. I am on my way to a junk yard to get another injector connector and see if that will solve the problem. I noticed no ohms to each injector plug while the ignition was on. Is this normal?

I also exchanged O2 Sensors and IAC Valve, and still get the same codes. To include the one for the injector.

I did check the timing on the compression stroke. Everything lines up firing on #1 cylinder.

Thanks

Ok when you get the new connector let me know if it fires that cylinder back up. With the injector not firing it could throw other codes.

I got the new injector wire and no change. So I spliced it with another working wire and the car idles great but still misses and boggs down with acceleration. I still get the same codes.

Ok we need to test the injector resistor box. See pic below. Now what you do is unplug it and check resistance between each term to term A. Meaning check resistance between term B and term A then term C and term A and so on. Resistance should be 5 to 7 ohms on the 200 scale. If not replace that box. Refresh me what codes are getting?

Thanks, will do. The codes are:
7, 16, 41, 16.

I ohm the fuel injector resistor and here are the readings on the 200 scale:

Term A to B, C, D, E are 6.3
Term B to A 6.3, C, D, E are 12.0
Term C to A 6.3, B, D, E are 12.0
Term D to A 6.3, B, C, E are12.0
Term E to A 6.3, B, C, D are12.0

Ok these codes are all circuit failure problems. Now that we have the codes lets go through them one at a time and get this car fixed. THe care is telling us with the codes that there is power or ground problems. So first off it looks like that resistor box is responsible for you injector problem. However if we go from the code 16 for the injector then here is what we need to do. First reset the computer by removing the back up fuse from the under hood fuse relay box for at least 10 seconds. Second get a long screwdriver which you will use as a stethescope ok. With the engine running put one end of the screw driver on the injector and the handle end you will cup with you hand and put your ear to it. Listen for the clicking of the injector. Now if the injector isn't clicking then unplug it and ohm it should be 1.5 to 2.5 ohms. If this is good set you meter to 20 volt scale turn the key on engine off and check the red wire with black stripe on the injector harness and see if there is power. Let me know what you find here and we will go to the next step.

I reset the ECU and all of the injectors have a click and ohm out at 11.5 on 20 volts. I was so impressed with the way it ran that I took it for a test drive. I did not notice any hesitation, but I was afraid to punch it. I did notice the engine did idle up and down after it warmed up and then smoothed out. The engine light did not come on while I was driving. But a light indicating that all my doors were open to include trunk and hood while I was driving.

Great glad to hear it is running again. I would put to the test if it messes up let it do it now drive it like you would normally. Now as for the door indicator lights on I would pull fuse 27 in the under hood relay box and see if the keyless entry system will reset it self. Do it like you did the ECU reset. Let me know how it all goes.

I reset the fuse for the indicator lights and things seem to be running like it did before. I have a question, is the injector resistor still okay? If it is, I can't thank you enough for you help. It was awesome!!!!

Sylvester

Yes everything looks good. I would drive and enjoy. If you have any more questions just ask. Thanks and have a great day.