Hard to start, will not idle, intermittently

Tiny
LAWSONDTL
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 268,000 MILES
I have the car listed above with a 3.0L Vtec that has an intermittent problem. It usually occurs when the engine is hot. The engine will shut off while idling and is very difficult to start. Sometimes it may start when I hold to gas pedal to the floor, then it will run smoothly when maintaining about 1,000 RPMs. If I try to let it idle, it will shut off. When driving it, the engine seems to run as if nothing is wrong and has strong acceleration, (but will cut off when I let it idle), then some random time later (15 or 20 minutes) it idles and starts fine as if it never had any problem.

Most recent engine codes when scanned with my cheap scanner:
P0301
P0302
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0300
P1399
P1457

Parts that have been replaced:
All 6 spark plugs, all 6 coil packs, fuel pump, fuel pump relay.
Saturday, December 18th, 2021 AT 11:01 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,517 POSTS
Hi,

The one code that stands out which could cause all the codes is the P1457. That code indicated a vacuum leak in the EVAP canister system. Has anyone checked for leaks?

As far as the P1399 Honda uses that code as a random misfire code. Interestingly, Honda/Acura has reported for various models that this could be caused by clogged EGR ports. In addition, there is the possibility that the valve clearance specification may be out of range.

With that being said, I feel one of those two issues is the cause.

First, under the vehicle near the fuel tank is the EVAP canister and several of its components. I need you to take your time and inspect all the hoses to and from it. Check the canister as well to make sure it isn't damaged. See pic 1 below for what to look for.

If there is no evidence of a broken hose or something cracked or disconnected, remove the EGR and inspect it for corrosion, carbon build-up, or anything that can restrict the airflow in the intake manifold. (See pic 2 for location)

If both of these don't prove to be helpful, we will need to start checking for issues in the electronics related to the switches and sensors tied to the canister.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Saturday, December 18th, 2021 AT 11:05 PM
Tiny
LAWSONDTL
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hi Joe,
Thanks for your insight. I checked the EVAP canister /hoses, they do look old and somewhat dry, but nothing cracked, and the hoses seem intact and tight fitting.

A few years ago, this car did throw EGR codes, so I replaced the EGR valve, but the code did come back. At that time, my mechanic, who is retired now, said there was some blockage in the intake manifold but since it wasn't causing a problem, he "flushed it", I think with carburetor cleaner, and the codes cleared. What is involved in clearing a blockage in the intake manifold?
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Sunday, December 19th, 2021 AT 10:10 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,517 POSTS
Hi,

In most cases, the blockage is near where the EGR mounts to the intake. After a little research, there was a recall on this being plugged, but it was only covering the issue for 8 years or 80,000 miles.

I read through the recall and what they want to be done to properly clean the EGR port. There is a pipe that is pushed into the intake that needs to be removed. If you want, remove the EGR and inspect where it mounts. See if it is blocked.

If it is, let me know. If you are able to clear it, that would be good. If you can't, the intake needs to be removed.

I attached three pics below. The first shows the EGR that needs removed (two bolts), the second shows the EGR pipe I'm referring to, and the third shows the positioning of the EGR pipe when installed.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Sunday, December 19th, 2021 AT 7:27 PM

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