1998 Ford Taurus Master Cylender replacment.4th time! In

Tiny
GRAND32
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 260,000 MILES
Hey guys. I have a big concern here. A while back. My brake likes eroded and I lost my braking ability. So I had the lines replaced along with the master cylender as it was shot.
i har a referb put in, 2 weeks later. My peddle was on the floor and no braking was available!
here and there the ODD time it would feel normal again, but then the pressure dies and I cant break. So i've upgraded the part to a better quality cylender, and the same issue has come up again!
im very frustrated. The resivoir is always full. I've had complete service done to the fronts and Rear Drums. My rear brake cylender for the drums are good they were replaced last year due to leakage.

anyhow, im very frustrated with this because im not in a position to get a newer vehicle. Everything with my car is fabulous! Runs amazing! Still very stong motor. Im a very considerate braker, I dont crush my brake peddal to stop. Etc

im being told that my Booster might be at the end of its life and need replacment.
is this true? Or is there some other issue or part that would be causing this problem?
its getting costly on the pocket to pay for labour for replacing this.
desperate for a solution.

i used to apprentice so I havea very good idea about quality work and what to expect to happy from wear and tear. Or normal life span of parts. I have good faith in my mechanic, and im doubting its his hand at work thats the issue, as everytime ive dont some service, everything has been immaculate after, with the exception of this situation.
please help if anyone out there can!

Cheers!
Friday, January 23rd, 2009 AT 1:40 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
When the first replacement was done, was the rubber cap swelled?
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 10:51 AM
Tiny
GRAND32
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Hmm im not sure. But before I took it again this past thursday. I remember when I checked the resivoir. The rubber in the cap was "full" or swollen, yes.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 10:51 AM
Tiny
GRAND32
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I also just came back from a visit with another mechanic, he thinks theres a AIR problem. With it. Says there is more than likely some air in the lines somewhere still.
Shall I have him investigate. Or wait and see if my brakes die again?
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 10:51 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Hopefully it's still an air in the lines problem, did you bench bleed the master? Bench bleed the master by getting brass plugs and screw them into the two ports, then pump the master until you cant move the piston any more. Attach the lines, Have an aide press and hold the pedal crack the lines and retighten, repeat this till all air is removed at the lines, Don't let the master run dry, bleed rear cylinders by opening the bleeders and wait until the fluid dripps out. Close bleeders. Make sure the rears are properly adjusted, then test the pedal hieght
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 10:51 AM
Tiny
GRAND32
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thanks Merlin!
When I noticed the Cap was swollen I was baffled. Lol

i spoke to another mechanic and he said it was more than likely an air problem. So i'll have that tended to.
Im thinking to hold off unitll it happens again. With the recent patterns. Maybe like a month. Lol
im going to take it to my other guy and see what comes of that.

Many thanks for all your help!
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 10:51 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Well if the rubber swells, it indicates a contamination by petroleum products, like oil or tranny fluid, if that happened, replacining all parts made of rubber, and flushing th steel lines with alcohol or brakkleen.
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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 AT 10:51 AM

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