Engine losing power?

Tiny
EMTJOSH12883
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 138,000 MILES
I will drive my car down the road and I keep losing power. It will slow downto 5 mph, then I have to stop the car, put it in pard and it will take off again for about 100 yards. It finally started to shut off and I would have to restart it
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have the same problem?
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Wednesday, January 14th, 2009 AT 8:18 AM

40 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 107,922 POSTS
It sounds like the fuel pump is going out but be sure this guide can help us and I have included a video to show you how to the fuel pump can be replaced on a similar car.

https://youtu.be/SOmd3BoE4YU

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Wednesday, January 14th, 2009 AT 1:47 PM
Tiny
EMTJOSH12883
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yes the engine check light is on but it has been on ever since I got it inspected. So I did the fuel pump the video helped the car has never run better thanks!
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-1
Wednesday, January 14th, 2009 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 107,922 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Wednesday, January 14th, 2009 AT 4:33 PM
Tiny
CAR#3SUX
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 74,000 MILES
Why is my car losing power? The tachometer is running up but the car will not respond to acceleration, and car shuts off. Ignition wiring recently replaced.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JGAROFALO
  • MECHANIC
  • 489 POSTS
From the information that you have presented, it sounds like the transmission may be the problem. If the tach is running up correcponding to engine sound, and the car is not accelerating, it might indicate that the transmission is slipping.

I would start by scanning for codes. Not all transmission problems will light the MIL light. That is, the "check engine" or "service engine soon" light.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:25 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
After running the air condition for a while the engine seems like it is choking out with lost of power. Have change spark plugs and wires. Can pull over and turn car of and then recrank it and all seems fine without air condition on.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
A/C compressors put a very small load on the engine but nothing like you describe. If the compressor started to drag to that extent, it would cause the belt to slip and make noise so I suspect your problem is somewhere other than the A/C. You can have gauges put on the A/C to see if there is any high pressure or anything that would indicate an A/C problem.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LOYD
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,058 MILES
Car lugs and loses total power like its out of gas. I have cleaned the injectors replaced the plugs, plug wires, pcv valve, distributer cap, drove the car 37 miles check engie light came on again code this time lean bank 2. I cleaned the mass air flow senser. All this made it run better but it still lugs and loses power the check engine light is still on. At least its drivable now any suggestions or experienses would be helpfull thanks in advance.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
What was the code?
Check for a vacuum leak and intake gasket
also do a fuel pressure test
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LOYD
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The code is lean on bank 2 thanks again
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
P0174? Only
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LOYD
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes sir p0174 that was the only code thanks again for taking the time to help others in need
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
1. HO2S sensors are not likely to be the cause of adaptive DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175: Most warranty-returned HO2S sensors (replaced for these DTCs) are found to function normally. Additional related DTCs will normally be present if there is a concern with the HO2S sensors. Do not replace an HO2S sensor unless verified through pinpoint diagnostic tests found in the PC/ED Service Manual.

2. DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174, and P0175 are not related to downstream HO2S sensors: When diagnosing a vehicle with a MIL On and DTC(s) P0171, P0172, P0174, and/or P0175 in continuous memory, do not replace the downstream HO2S sensors. These DTCs have no connection to the downstream HO2S sensor function nor its diagnosis for faults. Always verify the vehicle concern, then perform the pinpoint diagnostics from the appropriate PC/ED Service Manual.

3. Diagnosing lean conditions and lean DTCs P0171, P0174: Freeze Frame Data can often help to identify the type of lean condition, even if the fault is intermittent, by indicating how the vehicle was being driven when the fault occurred. Diagnosis of lean conditions and lean adaptive DTCs can be difficult, especially if the concern is intermittent. Verifying the concern is extremely important. There are different types of lean conditions. The ability to identify the type of lean condition causing the concern can be crucial to a correct diagnosis. When DTCs P0171 and P0174 are both present, there is a strong likelihood of another concern being present: a. Vacuum leaks/unmetered air: In this type of condition, the engine may actually run lean of stoichiometry (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio) if the PCM is not able to compensate enough to correct for the condition. This condition is typically caused by air entering the engine through an abnormal source (opening), or due to a MAF malfunction. In this situation, the volume of air entering the engine is actually greater than what the MAF is indicating to the PCM. Vacuum leaks will normally be most apparent when high manifold vacuum is present, during idle or light throttle. If Freeze Frame Data indicates that the fault occurred at idle, a check for vacuum leaks/unmetered air when the engine is cold might be the best starting point.

Examples: Loose, leaking or disconnected vacuum lines, intake manifold gaskets or O-rings, throttle body gaskets, brake booster, air inlet tube, stuck/frozen/aftermarket PCV valve, unseated engine oil dipstick, MAF reading lower than normal, etc.
B. Insufficient fueling: In this type of condition, the engine may actually run lean of stoichiometry (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio) if the PCM is not able to compensate enough to correct for the condition. This condition is typically caused by a fuel delivery system concern that restricts or limits the amount of fuel being delivered to the engine. This condition will normally be most apparent when the engine is under a heavy load, when a higher volume of fuel is required. If Freeze Frame Data indicates that the fault occurred under a heavy load, a check of the fuel delivery system (checking fuel pressure with engine under a load) might be the best starting point.
Examples: Low fuel pressure (fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel leaks, restricted fuel supply lines), fuel injector concerns, etc.
C. Exhaust system leaks: In this type of condition, the engine may actually be running near stoichiometry (14.7:1 air/fuel ratio), but the exhaust gas mixture will be lean. This condition is caused by oxygen-rich air entering the exhaust system through an external source. This condition will cause the exhaust gas mixture to be lean, even though the actual combustion in the engine may not be.
Examples: Exhaust system leaks upstream or near HO2S, malfunctioning Secondary Air Injection system.
D. MAF concerns
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NCJAMES
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • FORD TAURUS
I have a 1999 Ford Taurus. The mileage is 198,000. It has an automatic transmission. It is a 6 cylinder. While driving yesterday I went over some railroad tracks and my car would not accelerate. After pulling over and trying all the different gears it would not go anywhere. The engine ran perfectly but it will not go anywhere.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BEEF4786
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I had the same problem with a chevy. Went through all the gears while it was running and wouldn't move. Auto transmission. Mechanic told me it was the transmission linkage and that it's not too expensive to fix. (A couple hundred) can be done if you have some repair knowledge. Contact a local mechanic to get more info. But be careful towing because if it falls into gear it curt damage the transmission
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAFTY55
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 10,300 MILES
Sending this for my daughter. Last thing she needs is big troubles. She is in law school. No money for a couple of years. Augh!
Please advice. Will be greatly appreciated. Here is the info she gave me. This happened on her way to KU from wichita yesterday.

Above 60 MPH, it jerks and the rpms go down about 250 and then go right back up. Turning cruise on or off didn't seem to help. Turning the AC off made it better. Just dipped rpms going downhill.

Thank you,
deborah
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
The trans could be going in and out of OD. Is the check engine light on? This could be an indicator of the PCM seeing a problem in the trans. Check the fluid level, and have it serviced if it hasnt been done, this may help. If the check engine light is on, have the PCM scanned for codes.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TAURUS98
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 FORD TAURUS
Hello, our 1998 Ford Taurus, with 147,000 miles, recently has had a recurring problem with loss of power while driving. The power returned, but it's doing it more frequently; especially when it's idling low at a stoplight, it shuts down.

We recently had it repaired for other work a month ago, and the mechanic mentioned changing the sensors because he had a problem with loss of power while test driving our vehicle.

Is it worth getting this vehicle repaired or just save the money for a newer vehicle?

Thanks so much.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
  • MECHANIC
  • 718 POSTS
What is "loos of power"? Car won't go? Car stalls at stop? Car goes down the road and stalls at speed? What sensors were replaced? Were there codes to indicate these sensor issues?
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TAURUS98
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hi, I'll try to provide a little more info.

It's my husband's vehicle, and he described it as losing power. While driving at 30/40 mph, the speedometer suddenly drops to zero, then goes back to regular speed. Also, the car has been stalling at traffic lights.

Two months ago, my husband took his car to a mechanic and described the problem as the car struggling to get up to speed, that even with the gas pedal to the floor, the car struggled.

This is what I can determine by mechanic's handwriting on sales bill:

- SE3 light on
- Scan for codes
- Replace O2 sensor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
- Clear (or clean) codes
- Replace blower fan relay
- Recharge A/C system

I hope this gives you a little more information to work with.

Thanks for your help.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)

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