1994 Ford Taurus Fuel Pump

What are you calling the "4 relay pack"?
What engine do you have?

Have you tested all your fuses using a test light?

Ford doesn't make a 2.8. Did you mean 3.8?

I still don't know what you mean about the e relay pack. There is no such thing. Are you referring to the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module)?

Did you use a new or used one?

Have you checked the Inertia switch in the trunk. Test for power both coming in and going back out of that switch.
If not, check for power coming into the CCRM with the key on, on the yellow and red with Lt green wires.

It's not the CCRM that you are testing. It's the power supplies into it.
The Inertia switch should have been the first thing you checked. See if the red button on top has popped up.

I'm assuming that this car runs if you put power to the fuel pump, right?

I suspected as much. Now it's back too step one where everything should have started in the first place. I'm giving you the list of tests to run and don't shortcut any of them. I know some of them have already been done.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

If you give me the results of all those tests I will be able to point you in the right direction.