1993 Ford Taurus OIL LIGHT ON

Tiny
SUSAN 1004
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD TAURUS
Engine Performance problem
1993 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Automatic 124000 miles

I HAD THE RACK REPLACED AND NEW BRAKES IN THE FRONT AND BACK, NEW TIE ENDS AND BALL JOINTS ON THE FRONT, A NEW BATTERY, POWER STEERING PUMP, AND WATER PUMP AND IDEL ARM. I BROUGHT IT HOME AND DISCOVERED A LEAK UNDER THE CAR. I TOOK IT BACK AND THEY TOLD ME THEY FIXED IT BUT THEY BROKE THE MUFFLER OFF IN THE PROCESS. I REPLACED THE MUFFLER. BROUGHT IT HOME. DROVE IT ABOUT 25 MILES AND THE CHECK ENGINE CAME ON. I TOOK IT BACK AND THE CODES READ O2 SENSOR. REPLACED BOTH OF THE SENSORS. BROUGHT THE CAR HOME. TOOK IT IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE AT A FORD DEALERS. HE CHANGED THE OIL. I DROVE HOME, 7 MILES, WENT INSIDE THINKING THAT MY CAR WAS FINALLY FIXED. THE NEXT DAY I WENT OUT AND STARTED MY CAR AND TOOK OFF. I DROVE ABOUT 30 MILES AND THE OIL SENSOR LIGHT WENT ON. I TOOK IT BACK TO FIND OUT WHAT WAS GOING ON AND WAS TOLD THAT THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH WAS BAD. THEY REPLACED IT. ON THE WAY HOME THE OIL LIGHT STARTED FLASHING. I CALLED THEM BACK AND THEY TOLD ME TO DRIVE IT A FEW MILES TO SEE IF IT WOULD STOP BECAUSE SOMETIMES THAT HAPPENS WHEN IT IS REPLACED. I DROVE ABOUT 10 MILES. NOT ONLY DID THE OIL LIGHT COME ON AND NOT GO OFF BUT THE TEMP STARTED TO GO UP. IT WAS JUST UNDER RED. I TURNED THE HEATED ON AND THE TEMP WENT DOWN. I CALLED TO SEE IF THEY KNEW WHAT IT MIGHT BE. THEY TOLD ME THAT I NEED AN OIL PUMP, BUT IT WOULD BE EASIER TO PUT A NEW ENGINE IN THE CAR. I HAVE PUT OVER TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS INTO THIS CAR IN THE PAST TWO WEEKS AND I DON'T WANT TO JUNK THE CAR, AT THIS POINT, BUT I NEED TO KNOW HOW HARD IS IT TO CHANGE THE OIL PUMP. WHAT DO THEY HAVE TO DO COMPARED TO CHANGING THE ENGINE. I SHOULD LET YOU KNOW I PUT A NEW STARTER, BATTERY, ALTENATOR, AND WIPER MOTOR INTO THIS 8 MONTHS AGO. PLEASE HELP ME. I WAS GOING TO BUY A NEW CAR BUT I ALMOST HAVE ONE NOW. THANK YOU.

updated 6-3-09
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP. I HAD THEM CHECK THE OIL PRESSURE IN THE CAR. THEY SAID IT WAS 50 PSI. THEY SENT THE CAR HOME, DRIVING IT 2 MILES. THE OIL LIGHT FLASHED ONCE WHEN IT HIT A BUMP SO THEY FIGURED IT WAS OK. I DROVE THE CAR ABOUT FIVE MILES AND THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON SO I HEADED HOME. THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE STARTED TO GO UP JUST UNDER THE RED WHEN I PULLED BACK INTO THE YARD. COULD THE OIL PUMP BE BAD BUT THE PRESSURE STILL REGISTERS 50 PSI OR DO YOU THINK IT IS SOMETHING ELSE. THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR HELP.


WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE OIL TEMPERATURE SWITCH AND THE OIL TEMPERATURE SWITCH? HOW DO YOU GET TO THE OIL TEMPERATURE SWITCH. IF THE OIL TEMPERATURE SWITCH WAS BAD WOULD IT MAKE THE OIL LIGHT COME ON AND WOULD THAT IN TURN MAKE THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE GO UP? THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP.
Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 9:09 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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  • 3,711 POSTS
Hi Again Susan,

Here is what says about removing the oil pan.

Disconnect Neg. Battery Cable, Remove Oil dipstick, raise and support vehicle, Drain engine oil, remove starter and Brace.

Disconnect Low Oil Level Sensor connector (if equipped), Disconnect O2 Sensor, Remove exhaust pipe locate below oil pan, Remove flywheel/drive plate cover. Remove retaining bolts, oil pan and gasket.

And once the Oil Pan is removed the Oil Pump is easy to get at.

It appears to me that it would be easier to replace the pump than replace the engine.

However, if the car developed a knocking while driving there is a possibility of internal engine damage, the Bearing especially.

.
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Sunday, May 31st, 2009 AT 10:22 AM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Ok, when they check the oil pressure did they take it for a drive with gauge hooked up? If not they may need to. To check pressure while driving. Also have them check the wiring to the Oil Pressure Switch.

It could also be a coincidence with the overheating. It could be that either the thermostat is stuck closed or just partially opens. Or the Cooling Fan(s) are not coming.

Now I believe you are asking the difference between the Coolant Temp Switch and the Oil Pressure Switch. The Coolant Switch tells the coolant fan when to come on to cool the engine down. The Oil Pressure Switch just lets you know when the Oil is low or that you have no oil pressure. A good indication of low oil is a tapping in the engine and no oil pressure you would have loud tapping in the engine then within a short period a knocking in the engine.

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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 7:54 PM
Tiny
DOCAZ
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Sounds like it could be a bad connection on the oil pressure sending unit. The temp problem might be a bad or disconnected coolant temp sensor. Sounds like a lot of work has been done recently and sometimes things get disconnected without knowledge.
If it is actually an oil pressure problem the coolant temp might be increasing because of improper lubrication, but you should hear ticking and/or knocking.
As for changing the oil pump, removing the oil pan will let you remove the pickup tube, the screen on which might be partially clogged. The oil pump is mounted on the side of the timming chain cover below the ac compressor, it is driven by the camshaft which also drives the distributer.
Doc
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Sunday, June 7th, 2009 AT 11:50 PM

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