1996 Ford Probe wont start

Ok, will have to purchase one and give that a shot. Are they available in most parts stores?

OK, my friendly local auto zone guys let me borrow a noid lite out of their fuel inj test kit and it flashes while engine is being cranked over. I guess that is good. What now? I am going to try the fuel pump. Could it not have enough pressure to open injectors. Engine that was in chassis ran before change but who knows.

Is solinoid located on engine fuse panel on left strut tower? Not sure how I would do that but can look at the book and see if it helps. Any advice as to how would help here. I do have ohm meter. I tried another fuel pump (after noid light test) that was in a parts car that did run until I parts it out. It only had about 26 pounds. The one that was in car (and is back in) pushes about 42-45 psi.

Just came back from over garage. My ohm meter is digital and seems to jump all over while checking the realy. I plugged another relay off my parts car that did run. No change. Do I try to get a reading right at injectors? Man, this stuff is all brand new. Remember it is a complete crate engine. I really appreciate your help.

Ok, they were all between 14.8 and 16.4 ohms. Right on the money. Have spark, fuel pressure, blinking noid light test ok. Timing light is in the timing scale on crank but is not running so only getting timing ck when rolling engine with starter and timeing light. Plugs look dry as a bone. Only time I got engine to fire was by squirting fuel into the throttle body. I am SOOOOO stumped here.

Ok, took out #1 put thumb down in plug hole while I brought piston to TDC. Felt the compression so it wa not end of ex stroke. Rotor was right on #1 in cap. However, plug was wet this time, pulled # 2 and it looked wet too. Smelled of fuel. First I noticed this. Anyway, ign timing is in ball park.

Ok, I think that it was wihsful thinking that plugs were wet. Have puled them a few times after trying to start and they are dry. I put a few drops of gas in #1 cyl and it fired immediatly. Could any of relays on throttle body cause this? I have another engine laying there. Everything except a couple relays for egr (on back of engine by starter) is brand new from ford. Fuel rail, injectors, throttle body. Mass air flow is off old engine but it ran.

Stumping you? I am no expert on fuel injection but have been around cars for a long time. Built many race cars over years. Was a mechanic for about 20, this is drivin me nuts. If it was out 180 it would at least fire or back fire you would think. When I was able to get a fine mist of fuel in through throttle body it sounded like timing was close. I even took hold down bolt out of dist to see if I could get a burp out of it. Pulling the cam cover off is pretty easy and I can check to mak sure TDC is on comnpression stroke and dist is on #1. Man for the days of points lol (just kidding). I chased this thing for 2 weeks before I contacted 2car pros so don't feel bad. Just call me stumped for now. Will get back and Thanks so much. Gonaa change my name to Stumped! :)

Ok, will check fuse and relay again. This might sound dumb but how do I check the computer injector ground drivers? Wiring diagram shows wires to and from PCM. Not much additional info. I will check it out.

I scracted my head over cam sensor, crank sensor and what fires injectors and I still don't know and cant tell from wiring. The old chasis (racecar) was a 93-94. The new one is a 11-95 production. Crate engine is a 97. All three have different distributors. I though maybe the 97 distributor that came with crate engine had different way of fireing injectors so I put dist in engine that was in the early 96 (11-95) production chasis in new engine and had same issue. Darn, I may have to by a complete harness s and PCM for a 97. Ah for the old days! If I find anything I will let you know. Is there any after market set up that would fire injectors? I have a lot invested here and can't get it to run. It so sad that I am laughing. Sort of :(