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1995 Ford Probe No spark, won't fire

Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD PROBE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 68,000 MILES
Since 1995, I have never had problem with this car I could not figure out, but suddenly it turns over, has fuel, but will not fire. Both the car alarm and clutch interrupt prevent cranking, so they are not suspect.

- I wired a satellite radio in, replaced a fog light bulb, and changed the oil the day before this problem occurred, but I have driven it several times (about 40 miles) since then with no problem.
- I checked all the fuses at driver's kick-panel and under the hood and the wiring harnesses around where I pulled wire. Everything else in the car seems to work fine.
- Battery is in good shape.
- The ignition coil does not test open at 400M ohm range nor indicate a short to ground from either of the low terminals or the high voltage terminal.
- I have voltage at both poles on the low side of the coil.
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Sunday, January 24th, 2010 AT 1:15 PM

28 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
Pull dist cap crank does rotor turn? If yes remove Ignition control Module left side engine compartment on sturt tower and have tested at parts house.
Let me know
Thanks for donate
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Rotor turns -- looking for ignition module now, but do not see it on the driver's side strut and I do not have my shop manual here. Checking Internet for pix and location.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 11:10 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Look to right of brakmaster
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I am sorry, but I am just not seeing it, or what I think it would look like long view pix attached from battery to master cylinder.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/469490_DriverStrutarea_2.jpg



Sorry didn't include picture :)
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Look under thing with hoses attached module is small blck attached to strut tower with two screws
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I can see nothing electrical clear down to the bottom of the fender except the web of mounting brackets for vacuum stuff unless it is under the fuse block or battery ahead of the strut. I am still looking.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 11:53 AM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Finally see the heat sink -- that must be it and I have no earthly idea how I will get to it as I cannot even get my hand between it and the engine from the top or the bottom. Thanks will keep u posted
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 12:21 PM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Got it, got it out and had it tested x 2 -- it is green lights all the way. Can I test the six leads to it to some value?
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Check for codes will need an Analog Volt Meter connect as in diagram


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Graphic_334.jpg


codes are shown by meter arm swing key on engine off say arm swiings pause swings,swings pause swings, swings that is 122. post codes
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Thank you for hanging in on this.

Off to buy an analog meter, of course my two analog ones are not here and my Fluke is digital. My leads are all six in one row, so how do I know which is the self test?
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
STI on fender next to battery it will look like the figure
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 2:44 PM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
OH, I thought that was the connector to the ignition module, sorry.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 2:51 PM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
If I did it right DC Voltage range, key in ON position but not cranking, nothing but straight 12vDC measured.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 4:02 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
It does not show well in diagram but did you run jumper wire from top row far right term to the single wire?
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
Now that you explain it, it does show well, no, I did not.

A jumper wire from single connector to top right (signal return) and meter negative connected to bottom second from left (Self-Test Output). Positive of meter to positive battery terminal. Used 250 VDC scale because I was not sure what voltage was generated, but needle was rock solid.
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 4:21 PM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
I presumed the test involves inserting the meter to an active circuit. Is the battery still to be connected to the rest of the car when I try to read the codes?
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 8:20 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Yes battery hooked up place meter on low scale only battery voltage will be present.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
DSHROADS
  • MEMBER
  • 18 POSTS
250vdc scale - shows 12 volts but no visible needle movement when ignition switch is turned on.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 9:20 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
O.K. try this hook up jumper wire from STI pigtail to DLC see figure
Key on watch MIL on dash if it flashes codes


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Graphic_335.jpg

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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 9:33 AM

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