check engine light is on?

Have you had the computer scanned for trouble codes? Most parts stores will do it for free. Have that done and let me know what you find. If there is nothing there, I will direct you on checking fuel pump pressure. This guide will help get the codes

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval


Let me know what you find.

Joe

When I hit 25 mph on my truck with an E4OD Transmission that has been replaced in the last 1000 miles with a tested rebuilt unit, the check engine light comes on. Had someone test drive the vehicle and they stated that it felt like the lock-up torque convertor was kicking in and out on them trying to kill the engine. I have yet to feel this sensation. Got the truck cheap because it needed a transmission, wondering if the TCM could be bad, and took out the last transmission. That and where would the TCM be located, on 1993 I know they are by the passenger outer kick panel, but there is not one there on this year. Thank You.

Do this and count the flashes...Count the flashes, a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 11 or 111. Write them down and post here. First do this with the key on engine off, then again with it running.

That was the first thing I tried. Once the key is shut off after driving over 25MPH. Lights goes out and there are no codes. Used a code scanner for the first try and the pigtail voltmeter combo for the second try.

If the problem started after the tranny install, take it back and let them test drive it. Check connector on the tranny for bent or pushed out pins and a good connection. I show the electronic shift control module behind the right kickpanel. Also check the wiring harness on the right side near exhaust manifold, some are too close and wreak havoc on the wires, inspect inside the conduit!

I installed the transmission. Checked everything I could inside the transmission without dissasembly to make sure it was rebuilt correctly, did not notice an issue. Checked both connectors on the transmission, no bent pins, corrosion, or wire damage. I found a TCM at a local salvage yard for the 1993 5.8L E4OD 4x4 located on the passenger side kouter kick panel, this truck does not have the module located in the same spot, nice flat sheet metal. Transmission wiring on this truck runs down the driver side frame rail, across the transmission cross member and back to the transmission body. The original ford plastic clips are currently in place and support the wiring fully. Could not locate any road damage or heat damage on the wiring. A new symptom that I noticed is, if you press the over drive switch, no light comes on, checked light to makes sure bulb was ok, and when you come to a stop the torque convertor stays locked up and kills the engine. It will continue to kill the engine until you press the button again, and then goes back to normal operation. This truck is just being weird.

TCC solenoid is probably at fault, and is part of a rebuild, take it back to the rebuilder and have a new one put in. Also remove the tranny pan, if the filter fell off, the truck can stall comming to a stop, just like a bad TCC! Make sure the filter seals up tight on the intake tube it attaches to.

Sweet, thanks for your help. Dropped the pan, filter was in tight, replaced the solenoid pack, seems to be operating normally.

Good work!

We have an F-150 that when we drive it a warning beeper sounds and the engine light comes on and every other possible waring goes off, sounds like its about to self destruct, but noting seems wrong at all we have been driving it for 2 years like this and it runs like a dog on fire. Any possible causes plus the beeper calls back every 30 mins, pretty annoying. We have tried code readers but every reader thats been plugged into it freezes when a koer test is ran. otherwise its not giving any codes. Any ideas?

Have you had the body control module checked?

no we haven't because the truck runs and drives fine but we'll have that looked at then. what is the body control module for?

Here is a good definition that I got for you about the BCM.

•A body control module is a computer component in an automobile that checks, regulates and operates electronic devices throughout the car. When electric devices first began being used in cars and trucks, each device was governed by a separate electric component. There was a module for the air-conditioning, a module for the interior lighting, a module for the door locks, and so forth. A body control module gathers all these separate modules under one system so that they function together instead of separately, a format easier to both manufacture and troubleshoot.



While there are many different types of body control modules, they are generally alike, connecting sensors, switches and automatic reactions together in one computer system. These components are divided into inputs, such as sensor data about heat or speed, and outputs, or ways in which the body control module computer responds to control the vehicle's electronic functions. Inputs and outputs are further divided into analog and digital types of information--analog signals being used with modules that may change continuously (such as oil pressure) and digital signals being used for modules that can simply be on or off (like the headlights or the oil indication light).
Inputs and Outputs

Input components are divided into electric parts, such as the potentiometer, the variable resistor, the magnetic pickup and the voltage generator. A potentiometer is designed to change a voltage output to the computer, so that when a fuel setting or gas-pedal position is changed, the voltage will change and the computer will read the new voltage and respond accordingly. The variable resistor works in a similar fashion, but senses changes in temperature for reading engine coolant conditions and other data. The magnetic pickup reads the speed of a rotating object via a simple magnet attached to the object, and a voltage generator sends out a voltage signal based on the presence of compounds like oxygen so the computer can tell the oxygen-rich levels of a pipe or space.

Output devices consist of relays, solenoids, servomotors, switching transistors and others. Relays can turn other devices on and off by connecting or disrupting a circuit to turn on a fan or automatic air conditioning unit. Solenoids are analog components that use magnetic forces to move objects, such as fuel injectors. A servometer is a mini-motor also used to move objects, usually to turn things, while a switching transistor is the digital version of a relay. Other output devices can be very simple, such as LED lights, or very complex, such as a night-vision view of the road.
Computer Tasks

The body control module computer performs many of the functions of a normal computer, including storing data, using RAM and sending or receiving radio waves. The computer regulates many of the systems and troubleshoots all its component modules. Some modules are set by timer, which the computer digitally keeps track of, while other modules--like the anti-theft alarm--need to be active even when the car is turned off. The body control module computer also can be in charge of keeping track of mileage and CO2 output.

When troubleshooting, a mechanic often is pointed to the right area by the body control module system, which sends out a code that shows what module is not responding. At times, the body control module computer can diagnose itself and report specific problems (ehow.com).

If the BCM is causing the problem, the symptioms you described can occurr. Let me know what you find. Also. sorry it's so long, but it does explaine it.

Joe

thanks for the helpful info i don't mind the lengthy reading. for now I am just going to take the module apart and disable the beeper.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

MY 1994 FORD F-150 STARTS TO BOG DOWN AFTER YOU RUN IT ABOUT 8-10 MILES.IT HAS NO POWER UNLESS I STOMP IT TO THE FLOOR AND THEN IT WILL KIND DRIVE RIGHT A LITTLE WAYS AND START AGAIN.DURING THIS TIME WHEN IT GETS BAD THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND OFF.PLEASE HELP I REALLY NEED MY TRUCK RUNNING WE ARE DOWN TO ONE VEHICLE THANK .YOU

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on

I'M A STUDENT DEISEL MECHANIC IN TRAINING AND THEY HAVEA CODE READER.I'LL USE IT AND LET YOU KNOW IF IT WORKED THANKS.

i put an odb1 scannaer on it and it came up o2 sensor and timing.i put on the sensor and the light went off ,but it still bogs down when i drive it.when its parked it revs up fine.the guys i took it to tried to adjust the timing but i dont think they have it right .help please

When was the last tune-up/ double check the ignition timing,fuel pressure and transmission

Electrical problem
1994 Ford F150 V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 115k miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
Greetings,
Check engine light flashes 4 times within 30 seconds of cold startup. Engine rpm advances about 500 to a 1000 rpms within about 10 to 20 seconds of flashing. Engine rpm drops to stalling speed about 10 to 20 seconds after that and sometimes does stall, but usually picks back up to to hi idle and settles to idle. Engine runs fine for rest of operating cycle. Repeats each operating cycle at cold startup. All sensors tested or replaced. Have been opening and cleaning electrical connectors. KEY ON ENGINE OFF OBD 1 PROCEDURE SHOWS NO CODES EXCEPT 111( SYSTEM PASS). Anyone have any experience with this or any ideas?
Tnx

Scan the computer and get us the codes. Since the check engine light is flashing, it has set code(s) and is a good place to start.

Autozone will scan the computer for you for free. Let us know.

Have you found anything with this problem? I have a 1995 Ford Mustang with 80k Miles and it does the same exact thing. I have just recently put a 331 Stroker Motor in the car and have not yet pulled any codes to see so wondering if you found out what it was. Thanks

[quote:744540ca37="Ford dc"]Electrical problem
1994 Ford F150 V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic 115k miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
Greetings,
Check engine light flashes 4 times within 30 seconds of cold startup. Engine rpm advances about 500 to a 1000 rpms within about 10 to 20 seconds of flashing. Engine rpm drops to stalling speed about 10 to 20 seconds after that and sometimes does stall, but usually picks back up to to hi idle and settles to idle. Engine runs fine for rest of operating cycle. Repeats each operating cycle at cold startup. All sensors tested or replaced. Have been opening and cleaning electrical connectors. KEY ON ENGINE OFF OBD 1 PROCEDURE SHOWS NO CODES EXCEPT 111( SYSTEM PASS). Anyone have any experience with this or any ideas?
Tnx[/quote:744540ca37]

I had the same thing happen to my 1995 f150. Truck would seem to run fine after startup. I searched high and low for reference to flashing CEL and found only a few posts with no solutions.
I started looking over the engine and found a broken vacuum line that runs from the solenoid at the back drivers side of engine to what appeares to be a diaphram for the EGR system at the very back of the engine.
The vacuum line was very brittle and easily broke in may fingers when I touched it.
Hope this helps.
Art

My 94 Ford f150 2 wheel is doing the exact same thing as (Ford DC) truck.

Welcome to 2CarPros.
Could you please use this link https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new to ask this as a new question. Please include all vehicle information as there can be different things for different engine/transmission pairings. Thank you.

I have a ford truck an f-150 and my check engine light came on and them my truck died. It will start again but as soon as you let off on the gas it will die is that an o2 sensor

Need to pull codes from ECM do you have a volt meter with arm/swinging?

problem started in december, act as if trans was shuttering going up hills then smoothed out going down. has gotten worse, oil and transmition filter and oil was changedberfore problem. new rotor, dist. cap , wires, and plugs gapped at .054 as required per lable under hood. i still have 2 dead cylinders #3 and #7. could this mean a fuel injector is bad . also changed the fuel filter and added lucas injector cleaner to last 4 tanks of fuel. vacum measured 19 when we checked that any sugestion would be apriciated ..................................thanks lynn w.

Check no. 3/7 compression and injector

Misfires can be caused by worn or fouled spark plugs, a weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel.

it has a hard time shifting from 1st to 2nd then it pretty much jumps pass 2nd and goes on into 3rd and goes in and out of overdrive no matter what rate of speed....... dont know if this has anything to do with it but check engine light is on when it happens....another note is it was not doing it all the time at first but now it is pretty much daily

Have the computer scanned to determine where the problem is coming from. Most parts stores will do it for free.

Let me know what you find.

my trucks engine light comes on when I turn and when I excelerate , Do I need to take this in for repairs or can I do it myself?

as i doubt you have a code reader you will have to take it in and have the codes scaned.

post them back to me and i can tell you if you should or shouldnt do it yourself and how.

i forgot to mention alot of autopart stores may test them for free.

all autozones will.

Hi all,

I live in northern Alberta Canada. The weather here this last while has been very cold(-28, wind chill of about -35).
I just moved here from the northwestern part of BC where we didn't see these temperatures much at all. My truck is a 4.9L,4X4 with about 97,000km on it. It is on pretty darned good condition but is is acting like a real baby in this climate.
Anyways, since moving here I purchased its first block heater(actually a circulating, inline heater which works well as long as it is plugged in all night).
When at work I can plug it in but the plug-ins provided are on a cycling circuit(2 hours on, 2 hours off). By the time I am done my 12 hour shift my truck does not want to start right away but it does start. The other morning I started it up after three tries(it worked hard to start)and I let it warm up before I started off. I wasn't too far down the highway when I noticed the "check engine" light come on.
I stopped the truck, got out and checked under the hood for smells, sounds, and checked all fluid levels. Everything seemed to be in order so I reluctantly jumped back in the truck and drove home. The light came back on again but I am out on a highway in the early in the morning with no cell phone AND it is -28 not including the wind chill.
I had no problems with it on the way home and i also did not see any stains under the vehicle in the morning when I went outside.

Any suggestions??

The light stayed off for a little while after re-starting the vehicle(when I looked under the hood the night before when it first came on. The light came back on in the morning when my wife backed the truck out of the driveway to get my other car out.

Thank you in advance,

Links2

The check engine light is telling you that the system has dected a problem. You need to scan your trucks computer for trouble codes. You could have a sensor that is malfunctioning. Your local mechanic or dealer have the scan tools to identify your problem.

Most common cause chech engine light on-- 93 F150 6Cy Truck
Please list engine sensors & location

It would be a lot easier if you check for codes and go from there

Most common would be oxygen sensor on the exhaust system but there are way too many things that can cause engine light to appear. You need to have diagnostic scanner attached to retrieve the trouble code(s) stored to help pinpoint the culprit.