1999 Ford Escort Timing belt questions on the 2.0 SOHC

Damn that was a fast repsonse. Thanks again for it. So I won't damage the engine by turning it clockwise while removing the crankshaft bolt huh? If that's the case thats a good thing.

On the tensioner, I thought it is an auto tensioner like the drive belt one. I found out that you can just use the allen wrench to turn it without loosening the bolt and put the bit in to lock it. I also saw in haynes that the spark plugs have to be taken out. From what I see, people skip that step.

Damn that was a fast repsonse. Thanks again for it. So I won't damage the engine by turning it clockwise while removing the crankshaft bolt huh? If that's the case thats a good thing.

On the tensioner, I thought it is an auto tensioner like the drive belt one. I found out that you can just use the allen wrench to turn it without loosening the bolt and put the bit in to lock it. I also saw in haynes that the spark plugs have to be taken out. From what I see, people skip that step.[/Quote:b4807e16b3]

Oh yea two more question, when I replace the water pump, is it easier to remove the tensioner? And is the camshaft easy to move(like spinning freely like a wheel)? Like I said I don't want to throw the cam out of time. Thanks again.

Billymac. Thanks for answering all of my questions. I really do appreciate it. I think I feel more confident doing the job.

So the cam takes almost as much resistance to turn as the crankshaft right? You told me they are turned by the valves.

You didn't answer the question on the tensioner lol. Is it automatic(springs back and forth like th drivebelt one)? Like I said I keep reading that it is and you told me that I have to loosen the bolt to move it so i'm confused. Thanks again. I hope i'm not driving you crazy with this lol.

Hey obxautomedic thanks for the reply but i've already read and studied the book but all I needed to know is that when I take off the belt if I can just turn the tensioner pulley with the allen wrench without loosening the bolt? That's what I keep reading up on. It never said to loosen the bolt according to the haynes manual. So I guess its not an automatic tensioner huh?

Yea I understood the print you sent me but I keep reading that it is spring loaded. In that case why does it say to stick a drill bit or something thin to hold it back? Shouldn't stay back by itself since you gotta loosen the bolt anyway? It if doesn't stay back by itself should I mark where it was originally at then remove it? Sorry i'm just trying to get this straight here since the timing belt thing is new to me.

Oh yea on the camshaft, it does take a lot to move right? I just dont want to throw that part out of time when I slip the new belt on. Thanks again.

Yes, it is spring loaded, No the tension when you loosen the bolt the tension goes in the direction of the belt making it tighter.

No, you don't want to mark it. With the new belt it may make it to tight or to loose. Not all belts are exactly the same size and that it why a tensioner was put there.

As far as the Cam movement, it doesn't take as much to turn it as is does for the Crank. You can move it with your hands, It gets hard once it opens a Valve. If you move it around a little (Clock Wise or Counter Clockwise) it will not hurt anything.

Also, since you will be there already are you planning on replacing the Water Pump.

Here is one thing you can do.

Before putting it all back together. You can start the vehicle just Don't Run it more than 5 -10 seconds. Do make sure your radiator hoses are connected. And have someone start it for you while you watch the timing belt because it does have a tendency to walk off since the cover is not there to keep it in place.

And to be honest they can be a pain getting back on you will just have to work it.

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Yes i'm planning on doing the water pump also. I do see a little oil on the bottom of the timing cover so I might possibly need a crankshaft seal too. Is the crank sprocket easy to get off? I figured i'd do as much as I can while i'm in there becuase i'm not tearing the shit down again lol because of something I didn't do.

Back on the tensioner subject do you usually change it? I know some people don't but I heard its recommended. When I put it back on and tighten the bolt after taking the bit out, it won't put a lot of tension on the belt right? I know the tension is critical on a belt.

Thanks again for the reply. Damn you guys are great lol.

Ok cool. Thanks gentlemen for answering all of my questions on this job. I greatly appreciate it. Haynes sucks balls. I know I should've went ahead and stil got a chiltons. One more question and this will be it, should I still replace the tensioner though? With the kind of mileage I have on it do you think it'll be still good?

Well thanks agin, now I feel more confident on doing the job now. It won't be until the weather breaks like march or no. Too damn cold to do it and I want plenty of light to do it instead of doing it in a garage.

I did say I do have a little oil on the bottom of the the timing cover and possibly might need a crankshaft seal. How hard is it to replace it and to remove the sprocket? Thanks. Ok promise no more questions on this thread after this lol.

The spocket should pull off without problem. And you should be able to pry the seal out with a flat head screw driver, cause it won't matter if you tear it up.

And hate to burst your bubble but Haynes bought out Chilton a few years ago.

And also ask as many questions as you need in order to get the job done. Thats is what we are here for.
Even if it takes a hundred or more posts to get there.

Good luck and let us know how you do.

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Wow, I didnt know haynes bought out chiltons. Good to know lol. Thanks a lot for that. But anyways so the sprocket just pulls straight out? How hard is it and what the best way to do it? It wouldn't throw off the timing right? Thanks again in advance.

Oh ok. I thought the sprocket was held on by a tork or an allen bolt and had to be pulled off with a tool. But I didn't know it's easy to take off by just pulling it off.