i'm stuck, guys! i think the problem lies with the ignition switch itself (when i bought the car, used, a few months ago i realized i could take the key out while driving down the road) but i'm not sure how to go around it.
i've already installed a push-button starter to bypass the "start" position on the key ignition but, after working like that for a few days, it quit working with the key in the "run" position. the solenoid will click -sometimes- and all the dash lights and interior noise functions are dim, shaky, and sporadic at best.
i took a voltmeter to the battery - it's fine - and voltmeter readings to the push-button starter read fine. however when i push the button in the reading drops to 2V to 4V...
odd thing yesterday: i let the car sit for a day in my shop, put a different battery in it, and it started fine the first time. shut it off and waited a bit, after that it wouldn't start at all.
any help would be great. i'm thinking of maybe putting a toggle switch in to bypass the "run" position but i have no idea what wire it is...
thanks!
i've already installed a push-button starter to bypass the "start" position on the key ignition but, after working like that for a few days, it quit working with the key in the "run" position. the solenoid will click -sometimes- and all the dash lights and interior noise functions are dim, shaky, and sporadic at best.
i took a voltmeter to the battery - it's fine - and voltmeter readings to the push-button starter read fine. however when i push the button in the reading drops to 2V to 4V...
odd thing yesterday: i let the car sit for a day in my shop, put a different battery in it, and it started fine the first time. shut it off and waited a bit, after that it wouldn't start at all.
any help would be great. i'm thinking of maybe putting a toggle switch in to bypass the "run" position but i have no idea what wire it is...
thanks!
Oct 10, 2008 at 2:23 PM