1988 Ford Escort water pump

REMOVAL: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place fender covers on the aprons. Drain the cooling system. Remove the accessory drive belts. Remove the timing belt cover. Use a wrench on the crankshaft pulley to rotate the engine so No. 1 piston is on TDC of the compression stroke. Turn the engine only in the direction of normal rotation. Backward rotation will cause the timing belt to slip or lose teeth. Loosen the belt tensioner attaching bolts, then secure the tensioner over as far as possible. Pull the belt from the camshaft, tensioner, and water pump sprocket. Do not remove it from, or allow it to change its position on, the crankshaft sprocket. WARNING Do not rotate the engine with the timing belt removed or serious engine damage could occur. The 1.3L and 1.6L engines are of the "interference type," meaning it is possible for the valves to contact the pistons if their reciprocation is not carefully timed and controlled. An engine allowed to spin freely without the timing belt could bend valves and scuff pistons almost instantly. Remove the camshaft sprocket. Remove the rear timing cover stud. Remove the heater return tube hose connection at the water pump inlet tube. Remove the water pump inlet tube fasteners and the inlet tube and gasket. Unfasten the water pump to the cylinder block bolts and remove the water pump and its gasket.

INSTALLATION: Make sure the mating surfaces on the pump and the block are clean. Using a new gasket and sealer, install the water pump. Tighten the bolts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm) on 1981-87 models, or to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm) on 1988-90 models. Make sure the pump impeller is able to turn freely. Install the water pump inlet tube and the inlet tube gasket and fasteners. Install the rear timing cover stud. Install the heater return tube hose connection at the water pump inlet tube. Install the camshaft sprocket. Install the belt from the camshaft, timing belt tensioner, and water pump sprocket. Hope this helped. Thanks for using 2carpros.com!