1992 Ford Aerostar Car idles down and dies whenever it come

1992 FORD AEROSTAR
185,000 MILES • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
Avatar
GEEKSATLARGE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
1992 Ford Aerostar XLT 3.0 minivan, 185,000 mi, when at a stop light, it idles-down and then stops running like it's not getting gas. It starts right up again, but does the same thing at the next light or stop. It drives fine otherwise. Before this started happening, the engine had a bad shake when stopped at a light, but no "check engine" light. I had a neighborhood mechanic change the plugs, check the coil, do a tune-up, adjust the timing, change the water pump and fuel filter, change oil and oil filter and top-off the coolant. It ran a lot better after that, but it still had a shake when stopped at a light, although not as bad now (still no "check engine" light though). I took it to another mechanic, regarding the idle problem. They put it on a scanner, but said the scanner says there is no problem. They also checked the fuel pump and fuel pressure; both OK. After I got it back, the "check engine" light is on all the time now, and it completely stalls-out when idling at a stop. Shifting to neutral helps it stay alive for a few seconds longer, but it still eventually dies.
Jul 26, 2010 at 1:53 PM
Advertisement
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi geeksatlarge, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Have the computer scanned for OBD2 codes and get back with it-You can try the following -clean out the idle air control valve, also the MAF sensor with an approved cleaner and test the throttle position sensor, also clean out the EGR valve.
Jul 26, 2010 at 3:00 PM
Avatar
GEEKSATLARGE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Thanks, for your speedy reply. The last mechanic said the scanner did not detect anything, but obviously there is something wrong. After submitting the original problem to you, I had a conversation, in passing, with a friend who said they should have used a "Ford Breakout Box" to get the info. Are these two things the same? I'll follow up on your suggestions, but it'll have to wait ubtil this weekend. Can you "hang in there" with me until then?
Jul 26, 2010 at 6:50 PM
Avatar
RASMATAZ
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 75,992 POSTS
Np am here 18hrs a day, I'll be waiting

RETRIEVING CODES
Service codes are retrieved from EEC-IV system through self-test connector. Various methods and test equipment may be used to access these codes:
Analog Volt-Ohmmeter (VOM)
Scan Tester
In-Dash Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) Or CHECK ENGINE Light

SELF-TEST CONNECTOR LOCATIONS

ApplicationLocation
AerostarLeft front inner fender panel
Bronco & PickupLeft front inner fender panel
Explorer & RangerRight front inner fender panel
VanRight front inner fender panel





SELF-TEST OUTPUT/SELF-TEST INPUT (STO/STI) CONNECTORS
The STO connector is a 6-pin connector used to perform self-test diagnostic procedure. The STI is a single-pin connector, located next to STO. When STI is grounded, it activates fault code output function. Codes are retrieved through STO connector.
Jul 26, 2010 at 7:36 PM
Avatar
GEEKSATLARGE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Hello rasmataz,

I called Auto Zone to get started with the equipment to get the codes and the other parts, etc. I got conflicting information though. One person there told me to use the tool/scanner that scans for OBD2 codes, and then the other person (on the way to pick the tool up) said that this year vehicle would require and older tool/scanner that scans for OBD1 codes. Now, I'm confused as to what is true and which to use. I was also told that this issue has to be settled first before I buy any parts (if needed), because the parts are specifically designed depending on which system this vehicle uses. I need your feedback on this info as to its accuracy. And, thanks for pointing out the self-test connector locations. I'm also trying to find info on the locations of each of the sensors you previously mentioned.
Jul 27, 2010 at 11:43 AM
Avatar
MERLIN2021
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 17,250 POSTS
OBD I until 96' But I agree about the IAC(idle air control), or a major vacuum leak. You can read stored codes without any tool by doing a flash code test.

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd1_trouble_codes/ford_lincoln_mercury_codes.htm
Go here and learn how!
Jul 28, 2010 at 1:05 PM
Avatar
GEEKSATLARGE
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Hello all,

I cleaned the Idle Air Control valve and the Mass Air Flow sensor, using MAF sensor cleaner for both. That seemed to do the trick. Although I cleaned both, I strongly suspect the problem was actually the IAC valve because when I cleaned it, black carbon/dirt came out. That did not happen when cleaning the MAF sensor. My sincere thanks to everyone involved in helping me on this one. You guys are great. Thanks, again.
Aug 9, 2010 at 12:31 PM
Avatar
MERLIN2021
  • CAR REPAIR CONTRIBUTOR
  • 17,250 POSTS
Your welcome!
Aug 9, 2010 at 1:07 PM
Repair Safety Notice: This information is for general instructional purposes only. Vehicle repair can be dangerous. Verify all information, follow manufacturer service procedures, use proper tools and safety equipment, and consult a qualified repair shop when needed.