2001 Dodge Stratus ENGINE STALLS ON WARM DAYS

The po1391 doesn't relate to your car and the PO442 indicates a small leak in the EVAP system. You will need to have the system fogged to find that type of a leak. Basically, fog is injected into the EVAP system. Where the leak is, the fog comes out.

You mentioned 3 codes but only listed 2. The PO442 was listed twice. What is the 3rd code. Also, when the engine dies and won't restart, have you checked to see if spark and fuel are getting to the engine?

Let me know.

Joe

The codes that came up on the code reader had the same descriptions:
P01391:Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP
P0442: EVAP ....small loss
P0455: EVAP ....gross loss
My car was one of the first to roll off the assembly line in Mexico.
Appreciate any ideas.

Have the EVAP fogged to identify where the leaks are located and let me know what you find.

Looking for a place that fogs the Cannister; very few work the weekend but I have vacation next week and will get that done, however those 2 codes P0442: EVAP ....small loss and P0455: EVAP ....gross loss are now gone.

I found part of the problem this morning. The thermostat was broken in half. After changing the thermostat to a failsafe, the engine reached normal operating temperature and the radiatir fan actually came on...which I havn't heard all summer.
It did not stalll until I had taken it on I5 and ran it up to 70 and stalled on the off ramp under 30 mph.3 seconds after the check engine line came on. 30 minutes later I flushed the coolant and was on my way. The engine ran coller on I5, but the engine light stayed on.
The trouble codes were not there after I chnged the thermostat, but came only after the stall.

The trouble codes now are:
P01391:Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP...
P0725 Engine Speed input Circuit Malfunction
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction

P0725, at not ime did the engine missfire or idle ruff.
P0700, nor did the tranny do anything but smooth shifting.
The above 2 codes could be from stlling at 25-30 mph and the engine stalling as I approached the stop sign.

The P1391, I hope is not due to the timing belt. Could the timing belt have stretched allowing intemitten failure of the waterpump that allowed the engine coolant reach enough temperature to break the thermostat? Or is the unrelated?
I took the top of the timing belt cover last summer ate 70000 and ther wer no cracks, no wearing of the ribs. Could it have stretched ever so slowly that it stalled 3 or 4 times late last summer, then mow every other day when driven more than 4 or 5 mile to and from work?

The belt has teeth on it. It wouldn't have slipped. I have to say, I've never see a t-stat break in half. As far as the problem that still exist, I want you to disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. Drive the vehicle and see if the same codes come on. I don't know how the evap codes are gone and now there are new ones.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I drove saturday after the codes disappeared and it was fine. Sunday I drove it around and no problem. I drove it 20 minutes on Monday at normal operating temperature, and the idle and acceleration was great. In a left turn lane (outsie it was 95 degrees), it stalled. There was no check engine light. I let it sit for 10 minutes, but did not start. After 20 minutes, a man in a van pushed me to the right shoulder and I left it there for an hour; after an hour at an appointment it started right up.
I give up; tomorrow I am taking it to a mechanic.

When it didn't start, did you check if it had spark and fuel to the engine? To me is sounds like a bad crank sensor.

Took it to an independent shop and they found it in less than an hour. All the sensors were working correctly, the computer is bad. Luckily, the local Schucks found a remanufactured ECU for about 250 thru their own parts suppliers.
I just hope no new codes pop up after the ECU is progemmed.

I'm glad you found the problem. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

Changed mind; went cheaper and put a new coil in. There were no codes after stalling 4 times on the way to order the ECU. So...I went with what I'd done if it were an older car. Drove to to two places after that and it did not stall at all. Wait and see when it gets hot outside again. Thanks for your help.

Let me know how it works for you or if you have other questions.

Joe

Spoke too soon. It has stalled more often the last week. You mentioned the cranks sensor?
The 2001 had a recall that included that:
2001 DODGE STRATUS
2001 CHRYSLER SEBRING

UNits affected: 554

Recall Number: 00V299002

Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. THE HARNESS FOR THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR COULD COME IN CONTACT WITH A NEW PROTECTIVE SHIELD CAUSING A GROUNDED CIRCUIT.

Consequence: PROLONGED WIRING HARNESS CONTACT WITH THE HEAT SHIELD WILL CAUSE THE WIRING INSULATION TO WEAR AND EVENTUALLY TO GROUND OUT. THIS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO DIE-OUT, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

Remedy: DEALERS WILL RE-ROUTE THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR HARNESS.

Do you think that could do it? My car stalls consistently and runs great prior to the stalling episodes. And can cruise 75-80 smoothly. That would mean not the fuel pump or relay and not the computer.
It'll run great and then just stall and not start for 10-20 minutes. Gas mileage is 18-21 around town and with just one highway trip per tank (10-20 miles) it will get 21-23.
Would Chrysler still honor recalls if they left out VINs that were right year and exact problems?

That would be 3 recalls that my VIN was included!
I paid 400++ fpr some repairs last year that should've been recalled:
2001 DODGE STRATUS
2001 CHRYSLER SEBRING

UNits affected: 28439

Recall Number: 01V011002

Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS. A HOSE MANUFACTURING PROCESS ALLOWED THE REINFORCEMENT YARD TO BREACH THE INNER LAYER OF SOME AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HOSES WEAKENING THE INNER WALL WHICH COULD RESULT IN LEAKAGE OF THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.

Consequence: FLUID LEAKAGE FROM THE COOLER HOSES CAN CAUSE TRANSAXLE DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS AND SMOKE IF THE OIL CONTACTS THE FRONT EXHAUST PIPE.

Have you contacted a dealer?

Went to a locally owned and operated automotive service center andwaited only two hours. For 99.00 the found out why. I didn't want to accept their findings, but made a lot of sense.
I waited a month before I decided to take their advice. The ECU is bad. Mkes sense. The car warms up the engine compartment warms up then the car stalls. If I open the hood the car will start sooner.
The technitian/mecahnics found that the Crank and Canm Poisition Sensors sent and receice codes proprly, but after then engine compartment heated up (and so did the ECU) the computer stopped receiving the input from the two sensor even though both sensors were still sending.
I tested it by wrapping the ECU in a part od an old heat blanket that kept the ECU insulated from the engine comaprtment/heat. It stumbles after it warms, but does not stall but I am getting a new one whenever Dodge the backorder gets filled this week.
The car first had the stalling issues after my wife was rear ended at a stoplight. The damage was minor and the other driver lied and we both had the same insurance company... The car started stalling occasionally after that as well as the strereo would shut down or stick on one channel, or stuck on completely, we didn't know but the battery had a bad cella fter that and would drain over the weekend if the car wasn't started.
I changed the sparkplugs recently; U-grooves, and they had been fried.

That makes sense. As far as the accident, that could have caused all the problems for you.

Replaced computer today. Everything was OK...driving home and as I was on the off ramp it stalled again. The engine did run smoother prior to stalling. The engine did not start for the usual 10 minutes; once it started after a second of hesitation. Should I ask for the money back or is there somehting else that caused the whole thing?
After I got it home, I did the key dance 3 times and the code that popped up-besides the 1684 because the battery had been disconnected-was 1391. 1391 did not pop up when the ECU was not reading those sensors but now it does?
Was the computer part of the problem...was it one or both of the sensors? I have a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty, but is spending more money on a 2001 Stratus worth it? It has only 77K on it. In addition, the wife is as mad as I am. The service center has a good local reputation, or is that just fluff?

If it is doing the same thing, that wasn't the problem. Was the crank sensor checked or replaced?

When the computer was ordered, Chrysler reps-that the service center has an account with-said that it was programmed for that year and model. The techs got to checking, and since my Stratus was built in the spring of 2001 and not in the fall of 2000 there had been several software upgrades.
So the techs reflashed the ECU and reprogrammed it. I told them to drive it around and use it for gofor..and after 2 hours at idle and almost 15 miles of short trips: NO STALLS!
I picked it up and drove it home, including 10 miles of interstate and 10 miles of stoplights to make sure and no stalling. As I gunned on to I-5, it felt like it had 20 or 30 extra HP. Prior to this, getting to 6000 rpm was slower, but this time it got to the redline quickly and smoothly (not to mention I had dropped into the 3.96 slot at the onramp) and shifted smothly.
Most people wouldn't have done that but I wanted it to work or bust. I filled the tank up and after 20 miles of driving hard, the needle hadn't moved from full.
I will wait and see. I don't think there's an equivelent way to put sawdust into the tranny with the electronics. Thanks for the help. I have recommended this site to several of the mechanics that I know that are the Army and make extra money on the side by doein simple repairs for folks.
Much appreciated.

That makes sense. The interesting part is they didn't realize the possibility of updates when you first purchased it.

Good luck, and we appreciate the positive feedback.

Joe