Cranks but will not start?

Thank you, Joe.
I didn't open full throttle when I checked the compression to see if that makes a difference. I'll redo it and will let you know. I'll also re check the timing chain just to make sure that I didn't mess it up while bolting everything up.

Hi Joe,

So, finally removed the valves cover and spun the crankshaft to align the cams arrows. Cams don't line up at all at TDC. No idea how that happened because I thought I lined it up perfectly. I'm assuming it has to do with the VVT crap. Anyway, what's the easiest way to realign all 3 marks without removing the timing chain cover?
Thank you in advance.

Hi Joe,

Thank you for the info. So, you're right that though the chain marked links never align every time, the timing appears to be spot on with cams/crank marks. So at least that part is good.
Here's what I discovered this morning: compression is very low, just about 75 on #1 #2 #3 cylinders and just about 100 on #4 calendar. This was with throttle wide open. Adding a couple spoons of oil increase it a little but still nowhere near good enough.
So, at this point my suspicion is head gasket leaking.
Little history: reason for the teardown was because the five head bolts on the intake side were stripped causing the engine to cease. I did the time insert thing and replaced the 5 inserts and was able to torque it down to the 58ft/lp +90°. Is it possible that they're not torqued down well enough?
New pistons, new rings, machined the head, honed the bores. Looked pretty darn good to me.
Should I have coated the head gasket? It was uncoated, maybe I need a better grade head gasket? It came in a kit from rock auto so I'm not sure.
I've done engine rebuilds before so I'm pretty meticulous usually.
Thank you again.

Hi Joe,

Yes, that's correct marks on cams aligned with the crankshaft at the zero "0" mark on the chain cover which is TDC.
My compassion gauge is one of those that builds the pressure while cranking the engine and you'd have to press the valve to release the pressure so I wouldn't know if the pressure is holding. Maybe I should go borrow a better one from AutoZone/advance auto?
When the head came back from the shop, I measured it for straightness, and it was perfect and so was the engine block. So I know mating them with a head gasket in between should be perfect. So, I really don't know what's going on. I also took out all 16 valves, cleaned them and replaced their seals. They looked good to me.

Oh I see what you mean. In that case no the pressure doesn't drop fast and maintained until I press the button to release it.
I usually place the pressure gauge high enough that I can see it while cranking for about 5-6 seconds. I usually stop cranking when the pressure stops climbing.
I'm gonna grab a loaner gauge hopefully later to give it a try. Who knows, maybe my gauge isn't good and pressure isn't the issue
Thank you again Joe.

Hi Joe,

Unfortunately, the compression output is the same as mine. The first three are just about 70 PSI and with a spoon of oil I can get it up to 90ish. #4 gives about 100 PSI dri reading.
The pressure in all 4 doesn't leak fast but nevertheless still low.
I'll re-check the valves clearance once I remove the valve cover but I doubt that I'll find any discrepancy there as I checked clearance a 100 times before putting the timing chain on.
At this point I'm thinking I may have to open her up again. What thinks you?

Hi Joe,

Sorry for the confusion. I did not send the block to the machine shop, only the cylinder head was sent to the machine shop. Came back looking great. The valves were never changed, only the seals on the valves were replaced.
I honed the engine block at home myself. I used the hone tool I purchased from harbor freight. Did a good job on it I think.
Keep in mind the 2 middle pistons were pretty bad, but I did not see any serious damage to the block bores to send it to the machine shop. It is possible that the block requires machining and the use of a larger jugs. Not sure if this car is worth all that trouble considering its age 220,000 miles on the transmission.

Thank you again Joe.
Just for clarity, I replaced all the pistons and the rings with the standard size.
I think you're right; the rings gap may have been slightly on the higher side of the scale causing the low compression I'm getting.
I don't think it's worth it for me to machine the block and then replace all pistons and rings with over-sized one all over again.
I'll see if I can find a block in better shape than mine, otherwise I may part-out or junk the car.