No fuel delivery

At the relay. Test the black/white wire for ground. Check the dark green/white wire for power when key is on and cranking.If ok, the go to the oil pressure switch.Orange should be power and when cranking, the gray should be power.

I will have to do this with one of my helpers tomorrow, but, if I have no power from the orange and/or gray should I go ahead and replace the oil pressure switch anyway. I bought one a while back and realized it was going to be a PITA to replace, so I never did it. Thanks for your response!

orange should already have power and the gray should get it when cranking through the switch

At the relay Black/white good ground. Orange is hot all the time. Red has nothing. Green/white has nothing. Gray is hot when cranking only when oil pressure is built up. It remains lit with switch on until oil pressure dies off. (changed oil pressure switch anyway due to former erratic oil pressure readings)
Sure hope this gives a little more information you need. Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like the PCM isnt triggering the relay. Triple check all fuses to PCM, the comp could be bad

Thanks for the response. I am a carpenter, so this mechanic thing has me stumped. I could tear down and rebuild 265's and 283's, even an occasional powerglide when I was much younger, but this new stuff....well I gave up.
Would there be any fuses other than those on the fuse panel under the dash that supplies the PCM. Where is the PCM located? I have a wide sandwich size unit mounted next to the master cylinder vertically. Is that it? Oh, yeah, I am getting a 54 code on the OBD.
I really appreciate your patience and information.

That code is for the PCm not seeing 12volts on fuel pump signal monitor. It will be easier if you got to the "repair manuals" link at the bottom of main forum page, it goes to Mitchell-On-Demand. input your vehicle type then click "repair". Next menu got to "engine performance" then "tests with codes", there you will find a trouble shooting tree for code 54 that will walk you through the entire process. Much easier than me trying to do it a little at a time. If you have any q's PM me back

Well, I did all the testing I could do without actually pulling the tank and the fuel pump. So I checked with my local mechanic to see who he used for a tow service, and he suggested I turn on the ignition, tap on the tank in the middle with a rubber mallet. I always knew there were smarter people in the world than me. It worked, and so far so good. I know I am on borrowed time, but at least it is working for now. Thanks for all the help. Just thought I'd pass this scientific method of diagnosis along.

Borrowed time doesnt begin to describe it.That can be dangerous... the pump can go back out at any time, hopefully not when you are pulling out into traffic!!